Steve-no I didnt make the frame-its the original-I just replaced with lexan [the original one was too far gone to use] heres a pic of it before it broke up--jim
its in three pieces-with 1/8x3/4 covering the 2 seams--had to bow them out to allow room for the braces to not hit againest the lexan--also had to take 1 in. off the lenght of the brace arms
I also missed this thread back in Sept. I also have a rock guard that is being held together in spots with duct tape and could use some fixin' up.
I would like to see detailed pictures of how it works with the arms. Also, how do you cut the lexan? I have had trouble shattering plexi when cutting it, does lexan also crack and shatter if you drill or cut it wrong?
Rivka-sorry for the late reply-when I covered the 2 seams with 4 pieces of 1/8x3/4" alum.[ used a piece on the outside AND on the inside of the guard on each of the two seams]- I bent them outward alittle to make room for the brace hardware-also remounted the guard-brace attachment point about 1 and 1/2" highter up the inside alum. seam piece so as to place it where the most room was-right at the "bend".Which then necessated the brace arm to be shortened about 1"--worked great. I then made and riveted on, two new pieces[1/8x3/4"alum.] for the inside-bottom of this guard frame for the black, spring loaded hold-down thingys to attach to-shaped like a capital "U'-extending out[ in ] about 1/2"[on the inside of the guard frame] thus giving me alittle more room between the lexon and the brace hardware--whew! clear as mud!--jim
I also missed this thread back in Sept. I also have a rock guard that is being held together in spots with duct tape and could use some fixin' up.
I would like to see detailed pictures of how it works with the arms. Also, how do you cut the lexan? I have had trouble shattering plexi when cutting it, does lexan also crack and shatter if you drill or cut it wrong?
-Stephanie-lexon is muy tuff--I used a sabre saw --and cut on the side that had the protective film so as not to scratch it--I took a 4" x 34" piece and bent it back and forth and couldnt break it!!--tuff stuff lexan--jim
Stephanie,
Lexan can be cut and drilled without worry of cracking. Plexiglass is not the same. Cut the Lexan with a saber saw or jig saw for ease....any saw will do. File the rough, sharp edge off. Drilling holes is no problem either if you have to. Plan on a drill size that is one size larger than the bolt going thru the glass. If you use Lexan for the windows...pay attention to what Andy (Inland) had to say. Use Lexan SR (scratch resistant). You can get Lexan in tinted colors too ............OOOOOOO LA LA! I get mine at plastic wholesaler in North Dallas.
Nice looking guard! Lexan is used for many cockpits in experimental aircraft. It is very strong. When installing lexan you need to oversize the holes to allow for movement of the lexan. It is sensitive to temp change and expands and contracts. I have replaced a number of cockpit door lexan panels that were not installed correctly. You will get lots of spider cracks at each hole you drill if you do not oversize the hole. Jigsaws work well as do aircraft snips for cutting. A surform plane will clean up the edges nice and quick. Then follow up with 80 grit in any area that might be exposed to human contact. The best product I have found is Brillianize available from TAP plastics, for cleaning. Pledge also works.It's really nice to see some great work being done out there.
My PO had a new lexan rock-guard installed. The crew he hired to polish the skin spilled something on it that "melted" the surface. Anything that you know of that might smooth/polish it out?
Also, when doing woodwork, I often put down some masking tape to avoid splintering the edges. Would there be any benefit to doing that with lexan?
How did your front sofa arrangement turn out? I saw the removal at the rally, was just wondering.
Dave
Dave; Thanks for helping remove the gaucho. As far as the melted area - without seeing it I suggest you put a sticker over the wound! I usually mark my cut edge with a marker - use aviation snips to cut close to the line then finnish up with the sureform plane. Lexan is quite easy to work with but the edges left unsmoothed can bite you. As far as the front room goes not much is happening. I've just located a few very new products that look just like the carbon fiber I was planning on using. This makes me happy as aluminum and carbon don't really like each other all that much. I'll start a thread on this when I get started! And don't forget to debur the holes you drill in the lexan!!
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