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Old 08-14-2015, 06:45 AM   #15
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I got a star-shaped crack in one of mine. It was repaired by a mobile windshield repair guy and my insurance paid for it. Your's may be too large large for such a repair.
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Old 08-14-2015, 01:15 PM   #16
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Response to Dznf0g...

The airstream replacement part is the complete unit (almost) ready to install. If your trailer uses the same approach as mine, the wraps are mounted on hinge posts on the rear of the panel. When the locking pins on the front are both turned 90 degrees, the panel swings back and lifts directly off the hinge post (no screws, nuts, etc.). The replacement unit is complete (frame, gaskets, hinges, etc.) and drops in place of the broken one. The only installation I had to do was to install the two twist lock fittings, each of which is held in with a snap ring. The alignment between my trailer and the new unit was off just a bit. A quick adjustment of the slot on the new window using a round file was enough to complete the installation.

Shoot me a PM if you need pics, part numbers, etc.
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Old 08-14-2015, 02:24 PM   #17
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The more you cold bend a plastic the higher the stress is present. Thin materials you can bend by hand. Thick materials require considerable force. Either is bad for the plastic. Heating the material to its softening point causes the material to deform easily and will result in low stress. Keeping it bent for a time at that temperature will allow the material to anneal and remain in that shape when the force is removed. In this state, the material will have its best impact strength. Polycarbonate (Lexan)(if not exposed to a chemical crack agent (like gasoline) will have 20 times the impact resistance of acrylic (plexiglass). Polycarbonate is available as an upgrade on some guards and skylights. I have corrugated Lexan for one skylight on my 63 and it was undamaged by hail up to 2.5 inch in diameter, while all other skylights on RVs in that park were destroyed. I lost two glass side windows in that storm.

Thinner is easier to cold form, but has poor impact resistance. Thicker is better, but you may need to heat form it to stay in the frame and keep the curve.
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Old 08-14-2015, 03:14 PM   #18
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Dwight - would someone who works with Corian Countertops be able to slump mold Plexi or Lexan?

I've seen Corian bent to 90 degrees under heat, and even watched a man make a pencil box out of 3/8 corian by bending it around a circular wooden mold.

Paula
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Old 08-14-2015, 03:57 PM   #19
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My guess would be that they had the proper equipment. Lexan needs to be heated to about 345F to do the job. Plexiglass is workable at 280 F. An oven or IF heating is usually used. People who do vac forming like acrylic sign people frequently have equipment necessary.
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Old 08-15-2015, 01:15 PM   #20
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Rockguards are for windows.

Segment protectors are for the front sheet metal quarter panels.

The cracks happen usually from rocks.

Call your insurance company and submit a "Comprehensive Loss".

A comp loss usually has a much lower deductible.

A comp loss settlement will save you many dollars.

A comp loss cost for a typical rock guard including shipping is about $ 600.00 for a one piece rockguard, and about $ 750.00 for a wrap window rock guard, which is a part of the 3 piece rockguard.

Parts stocking dealers may have them in stock.

Andy
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:50 AM   #21
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What is the best mud flap type rock guard to mount on my truck to try and prevent another cracked Airstream rock guard? I have a 2015 Chevy 2500 HD and use a 2" Hensley Arrow hitch into a 2 1/2 to 2" receiver adapter.
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:22 PM   #22
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Rocktamers for me......but you should have mudflaps at the wheel wells too. If you stand behind the truck, regardless of what types of flaps you have, if you can see tire tread, there are "holes" in your coverage. Rocktamers alone will allow stones to be thrown between the bumper ends and the top of the tamers. Wheel well flaps "cover" that "hole".

I am certain that the few star cracks I have aren't from my vehicle, but from passing vehicles. Not much you can do about that.
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:39 AM   #23
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After my plexi wrap misadventure I looked into better mud flaps and came to the same conclusion as dznf0g... the rock that hit mine could not have come from my own truck.
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:42 AM   #24
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I need a recommendation on removable mud flaps for my truck. I have a 2015 Chevy 2500HD Duramax. I use a 2 " Hensley Arrow hitch into a 2 1/2" to 2" adapter hitch receiver. There is not enough room sticking out of the stinger to use a Rock Guard hitch mounted mud flap. Any other suggestions?
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Old 09-11-2015, 12:22 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadtech View Post
I need a recommendation on removable mud flaps for my truck. I have a 2015 Chevy 2500HD Duramax. I use a 2 " Hensley Arrow hitch into a 2 1/2" to 2" adapter hitch receiver. There is not enough room sticking out of the stinger to use a Rock Guard hitch mounted mud flap. Any other suggestions?
Are you sure? Rocktamers fit on my stingers.
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Old 09-11-2015, 03:06 PM   #26
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i called Rock Tamer and they said I need a minimum 1 inch of stinger from the face of the receiver. My stinger is a dropdown type and the part of the stinger that drops down is right up against the receiver.
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Old 09-11-2015, 03:33 PM   #27
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I built my mud flaps, used angle iron bolted above and in front of the rear bumper ,they stick out 2" past the tires on the outside ,are low to the ground, I like them better than the rock tamers , which are hanging on the wall.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:20 PM   #28
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Out of curiosity, what material/source did you use for the "flaps"?
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