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Old 11-19-2011, 12:00 PM   #29
BlueBelle's Avatar
2007 19' Bambi
Irving , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 33
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It seems like something goes wrong or breaks on every trip we take...
fortunately for us... not everything. Maybe "Murphy" is done with you for a year or two.

Life is short. Play hard.
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Old 11-19-2011, 02:38 PM   #30
Rivet Master
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2008 27' Classic FB
Burkburnett , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 976
Originally Posted by wayner61
The heat pump / AC have been working flawlessly. I really think it was just a combination of the fan on low and 100% humidity that night. I used the furnace the rest of the night but switched back to the heat pump during the day with no further issues. No problems the next night either.
I'm not sure that the fan set to low had a lot to do with it. In heat pump mode, the inside half of the unit is warm. The outside half is cold and will condense a lot of moisture that should run off the roof. Periodically, the unit has to run a defrost cycle. It does this by switching to A/C mode for a couple minutes without the inside fan running. While it's thawing out up there, the inside half gets pretty cold and could cause some condensation especially if the inside humidity was pretty high. I would think that would find its way to the drain line that normally drips when in A/C mode.

You may want to be watchful next summer when you start using the A/C... Maybe the mud daubers have plugged up your drain line. Not hard to fix that.

The jack gears should have a coating of Molykote or equivalent. This is a sticky grease that stays on the teeth better, but it is part of my spring routine to take the cover off the gear train and move the grease from the cover back onto the gears.

There's got to be a better design for lighting the oven pilot! It is easier if someone else can keep the knob pushed so you can locate and light the pilot. The flame should be small in standby and it gets larger when the oven valve is turned on. It should not make any particular noise when it's lit. If it seems too large and noisy, I would have a qualified tech look at it.

You had way too much "adventure" for one weekend yet you seem to be pretty positive about it all. Here's to many enjoyable outings in the future with only fun and no hassles.

AIR 47751
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Old 11-19-2011, 02:58 PM   #31
Rivet Master
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2008 27' Classic FB
Burkburnett , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 976
Originally Posted by BossCamper
There's a manual crank on the electric jacks?

But of course, I guess there would almost have to be. One thing I didn't get with my '73 .....

Note to self .. add manual crank handle and instructions to my "to do" list for the restore.

That's what's great about this forum .. there is a wealth of info to pick up even when you're not looking for it!
Some jacks have a cap on the top of the head unit, and others have a hex head facing the side that accepts a socket wrench. The one on my AS requires you loosen but don't lose two Allen screws. One faces the rear so I have to take the tank cover off. When reassembling, there is a procedure to synchronize the limit switches with the jack to prevent damage.

Besides the crank, you need an Allen wrench that fits.
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