Introducing our new '56 Caravanner

[soldiermedic]

I took the outgoing lines that go to the running lights apart and tested them each on a trickle charger. One of the leads made the front marker lights up. The other lead produced nothing. I also hooked a 12v bulb up to the charger and touched each line. The line to the rear lights that appears to have the short burned much brighter than the bulb connected to the front markers.

At this point I could always hook up the front markers to have something, but need to solve the other part of the riddle to avoid troubles with the law.

[nohillgrish]

Steve,
The sales picture did not do the trailer justice. What a beauty. Wish I could have driven along behind you on the trip home to film all the head turning yukionna referred to. Hope you and the Mrs. are agreeable to tours at the Branson rally in October.

[2airishuman]

hi steve..

very sharp looking trailer!

hope you have a great camping season...

it's gonna be hard to hide with that unit.

cheers
2air'

[soldiermedic]

Nohillgrish, we have given tours daily since bringing it home and would not mind (Kinda look forward to it).

Dr. Air, thanks for the words...I need a script for this headache.

On to larger issues...like Air Conditioning. It was over 100 degrees inside my trailer today. The went far doesn't seem to vent as much as it shoots air from the vent into the trailer. I know AC on my rig would not be doing any justice, but I may have no choice seeing how much under bunk units run.

I did purchase a portable AC unit today and tested it in the trailer. Due to poor ventilation of the hot air from the unit, it was near impossible to get any cooling effect from the unit unless you stood directly in front of it.

I will also run into problems with having AC in the central venthole due to the bathroom wall being built so far into the mid section of the trailer. The rear 14x14 is available, but pictures sent to me by Doug Reid show that the bracing wasn't the greatest on that rear vent.

All in all...looks like a hot summer unless I find an AC genie.

Steve

UPDATED: Low Profile AC unit with Interior ceiling panel for $540.00 plus $85.00 shipping!

[till]

Steve,

The bed idea sounds great. A lot less work than building a pedistal from scatch. Can't help with the AC chioces, that is a personal call.

[soldiermedic]

If my rear vent can support a low profile AC unit then that is the way to go I think. I may ruin the vintage look, but what fun is camping if it is so hot I can't enjoy myself.

Steve

[robandzoe]

Don't do it Steve... go window if you must

[3Ms75Argosy]

and an article by Fred Coldwell about adding a window AC unit to the trailer when stopped. It seemed a fairly elegant way to go. Search Uwe's posts about a window unit installed under a bench. I believe it pulled air from the belly and exhausted the side? He did have some pics.

Colin has installed an under bench unit too. I think his slid out the side to work. (search thevap.com's caravelle resto pics).

Either would be cheaper and "prettier" to install than the roof unit. Also, these window units could be easily powered by a "smaller" EU2000i.

Brakes - reading David's site, it looks like this trailer was really set up to be a cabanna of sorts on the PO's property. Are you sure this orginal axle is up to the task? A leaf spring axle would be an easy and cheap swap out (Dexter could easily be used) with new brakes. Running the wires could be a simple exterior loom (along the belly) to the axle if the wires aren't there now. I wouldn't molest the belly pan to install it. Much cheaper than repairing exterior skin later.

Beautiful trailer!

How's it tow? It looks a little tongue light without those tanks in front.
Marc

[2airishuman]

yea no a/c in the midwest kills the camping quickly....

heat and humidity inside a tin can is no fun.

it's your trailer so make it liveable!

i think the new duotherm roof top units may be even slimmer than the one in your link.

another opt to explore is adding a/c as is done on the base camp models...

the b/c has a small (5-6btu) unit mounted on the tongue where the lpgas cylinders go...

i couldn't find a good picture, but take a look at the exterior shots of the b/c...

some have a 'short' tank box and others have a 'tall' tank box with louvers around the lower portion.

those units have the optional a/c and it's UNDER the lp tanks....

very nicely hidden, but less efficient than roof top,

and venting under the front sofa/bed would take some work...

cheers
2air'

[CanoeStream]

Steve, do you still have the OEM axle setup?

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

Brakes - reading David's site, it looks like this trailer was really set up to be a cabanna of sorts on the PO's property. Are you sure this orginal axle is up to the task? A leaf spring axle would be an easy and cheap swap out (Dexter could easily be used) with new brakes. Running the wires could be a simple exterior loom (along the belly) to the axle if the wires aren't there now.

I'm not going to speak as an expert. But take a look at markdoane's post 11 here. And other recent leaf spring conversations here. And I don't think that this trailer would have had the small spindles that didn't hold up on the early '60s smallest Airstreams.

If I'm to believe postings of experienced people -- leaf springs give a nice ride, can be made to work and they'll never take a set like torsion axles. I don't have the exact answer, but what evaluations and maintenance steps will help sustain soldiermedic's axles?

[soldiermedic]

From what I can tell, the axels are OEM. This thing sits incredibly low to the ground, and rides extremely smooth. I did not know it was back there a good amount of the time, and I am towing with a V-6 trailblazer. The PO did say he had someone look at the running gear, and that it looked good. I will probably ask people at morain view to have a look see as well.

As for the brakes, I will just run a line up the belly pan and zip tie it to the axel. Then I can run wires to the brakes on either side.

This coach is 22 feet long, so I don't know if it had the spindle issues of the smaller bambis and caravels.


News from the wiring front. I took the screws that that PO installed into the leather hoping this would remove the dead ground. Success! I then installed the screws back into place looking for the short, but the lights never went out. I believe that the wire was pinched by one of the screws, and when I put the screws back it it musct have missed the wire. I hooked the running lights back to the terminal block and tested with the trickle charger one last time for good measure...lights on and good to go.

I then hooked the TV up to the trailer and hit my lights...no running lights on the trailer. I took my multimeter and tested the voltage from the running lights to the ground on my 7-Pin adapter and got 0.0volts. I will look into a blown TV fuse, but if that isn't the culprit I am out of ideas.
any are

AC issues. Many people mention that Colin has an AC unit installed on a slide out. I assume this requires extensive cutting of the skin and metal fabrication, both of which I don't have the time or skill for. I wouldn't have an idea where I would put this window unit either. I do not have the option of hooking up to a window since my screens do not come out, and the hehr latches and operators are in the middle of the window and would occlude any AC unit(Poor design).

Will look at UWE's post, but I need something quick.

Steve

[soldiermedic]

Leaks...not leeks, but leaks.

We had about 20 minutes of rain shortly ago and I went out to the trailer. The front and back windows were both closed and latched, but water had infiltrated, and soaked the leather wrapped walls, front cushion area, and front floor.

I got inside and threw towels on what I could, but it started raining again. I am about to go outside and see where the leaks are entering from.

Lord knows this is the last thing I need right now. I just want to camp.

Steve

[robandzoe]

As Colin says! No matter what - they do! There are 2000 rivet holes in them... hopefully you can find out where they are coming from! Windows, vents, seams. Vulkem, vulkem, vulkem! Good luck Steve - we're with ya! seeing the leaks is easy - finding the source is the hard part!

[soldiermedic]

I can see where the rain is pushing through the window frames, but I am unsure where to place the vulkem. Many people say that the entire window frame needs to come out, and resealed in place. This part that is leaking is not where the frame and skin meet, it is only the window. Another issue is the door's rain cap. The PO put a new door gasket on and it seals on the rearward part of the door, but once it hits the beginning of the curve you can see day light the rest of the curve and all the way down the frontside of the door. The raincap has a few holes in the sealant, so instead of rolling off the guard, it goes through it, and jumos to the interior. The center vent in the trailer is leaking from where the frame and skin meet.

I want to take pics so someone can oint out exactly where to place the sealant.

For the rain cap, and roof vent I just plan to use a bunch of vulkem. I know I need to wait until it is dry, but do I need to clean it with anything first?

I am praying for warm and sunny in the next few days to address these issues. I wouldn't want my wife to have to come home every day after work on a rainy day and mop up the days rain inside.

As for AC, I am looking at split systems that run off 115v. LG's art cool is pretty expensive, but there are several brands that may work.

Steve

[soldiermedic]

Added pics to help tell the story. Where do I shoot vulkem for these areas?

I have a tube I bought from Inland back in November. It is unopened, but what is the shelf life of this stuff? SHould I need new stuff I guess I can go to my local dealer.

Steve

[muddy_hollow]

Hey Steve,

Sorry to see you having to play dutch on this rig already. I hope you find the source of those leaks.... Tell me what you find as I have the same ones!!

As for that door seal, you need to take some stripper and put a new one on. Vintage Trailer supply has them, not too expensive either. As for the windows you might check the rivet on seal as I noticed sand and crap gets down between the seal and the trailer. A good air blast should clean it all out. You also might try putting a thin neoprene seal on the inside of the window itself, just to double seal it. I noticed on mine that the window does not have a seal except the one rivetted on.

I wish you luck and I hope this goes a bit smoother for you.

Doug

[soldiermedic]

I am replacing the original Hehr vent with a fantastic fan. This will give me new technology and a fresh seal from the leaks (And with no AC the thermostat will be nice).

The vent unit, and knobs work if anyone is interested.

The RV shop doing the work will also hook my brake lines up since he has a lift, and seal my winders.

Steve

[till]

Yea!!!!! Progress!!! I think that A/C will make a big difference in your camping experance.
How long will the RV shop have your rig??
Still can get some camping in close by if you have a couple of days.....

[soldiermedic]

I purchased a Shurflow vent fan over the fantastic fan. The platinum edition fan had more bells and whistles than the fantastic fan, and was only $259.00.

I am going out to the RV to remove the Bathroom wall to expidite installation.

Ted, The shop is going to do it tomorrow, and is not keeping the RV. That is why I am going to him. The soonest anyone around here could help me was mid June! This guy is a bit in the rural areas, so his prices are great. Hooked up my Tekonsha prodigy for $20.00.

I am thinking about removing my entire door gasket (Since it isnt working very well) and using a temporary fix from Walmart with a D-Gasket. Luckily the door has a dead bolt, and won't be flying open with a larger gasket in place for the temp fix.

Steve

[Safari Tim]

Steve,

Hang on to that old vent. If you ever sell the next owner may want it.