Introducing our new '56 Caravanner

[KeithC]

Whoo..augh....whoo..augh...

[soldiermedic]

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

For the plumbing go to RV Products & Accessories and see what fittings they have that will adapt to your pipe. You need 3" bayonet fitting to take a standard sewer hose. After you find the part number most any RV place is likey to have it or can order it.

Do you have a black tank with a valve and sewer connection? If so the grey tank plumbing should have been routed to a valve under the black tank valve and terminate at the same hose fitting. That is since this was such an extensive rebuild.

On the A/C you'll just have to check your specific trailer and add the structual support neccessary. To bad it was not done during the rebuild.

Tim,

I agree with you that a grey tank would have easily been added during the extensive rebuild process, but alas it was not. The grey water empties out a completely different spot than the black tank (Which has a valve and sewer connection).

Call me a newbie, but I have heard the term bayonet fitting alot, but the only bayonette I know of is fitted on my rifle. As long as that black fitting on my hose fits the valterra tank fitting I will be pleased. I will likely buy a coupler as well since an 8' hose won't be long enough.

Fot the grey termination the PO is giving me a big blue boy tote. I plan on just having a long hose hooked up to the grey tank at a full hook up and only plan to hook the black tank up for dumping when it is time to leave the camp site (Especially with a 20 Gallon Black tank).

Steve

[Safari Tim]

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

Tim,
....
I agree with you that a grey tank would have easily been added during the extensive rebuild process, but alas it was not. The grey water empties out a completely different spot than the black tank (Which has a valve and sewer connection).

...
Fot the grey termination the PO is giving me a big blue boy tote. I plan on just having a long hose hooked up to the grey tank at a full hook up and only plan to hook the black tank up for dumping when it is time to leave the camp site (Especially with a 20 Gallon Black tank).

Steve

Steve, I misunderstood.

I thought there was a grey tank from your post. So you'll just be draining into the tote. You can still use the bayonet fitting. Is is the fitting that has the nubs on it to accept a sewer hose.

You could get a sewer cap to go on the bayonet fitting with a hose connection then run a short hose to your tote tank.

[5cats]

Steve,
On the Air Conditioning unit issue, perhaps you'd be happy with a Fantastic Fan, instead?

Beefing up the structure and putting a beasty box on top of your beautiful rig might not be worth it. We've found our AC is uncomfortably loud, both outside and especially inside. We expect to run the Fantastic Fans (one in, one out) far more than the AC.

Of course, this is coming from someone sitting in relatively comfortable San Diego year round. It may be that AC is required equipment to some...

Cheers,
-jd.

[soldiermedic]

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

Steve, I misunderstood.

I thought there was a grey tank from your post. So you'll just be draining into the tote.

You could get a sewer cap to go on the bayonet fitting with a hose connection then run a short hose to your tote tank.

If possible, I would like to bypass the tote, and have my grey water go directly into the sewer hole. I would just need to find a valterra fitting that fits my PVC pipe. Then I can hook the grey outlet directly to the sewer. The hose can do double duty and be used for the black tank when we are on the way out.

As for AC, it gets gosh darn ot and muggy here in Missouri. I am considering a window unit specially mounted in a window that was told to me by RideAir. I have also thought about fitting a portable room unit to vent out a window using a piece of plexiglas the size of the screen. No window blockage, and nice cool AC. If I had any experience mechanically I may try the split unit, but it would require much more extensive work and cost alot more money.

Here are some pics from the way rideair does his AC. He sets a window unit on the small table, and then places a piece of plexiglas around the AC unit edges. He then uses a type of screening to create the cover. It isn't completely opaque on the inside, but looks like it from here. This will serve the best of all worlds as I don't want to add a big unit on the roof.

Steve

[muddy_hollow]

One of the products I found while surfing one night was an under bunk AC unit from Dometic. SoldierMedic and I exchanged email on this and I'm kinda keen on this as an AC solution for vintage trailers. NOT cheap that is for sure, but it does two things; 1.) no big box ontop or unit hanging out a window 2.) saves space by being located under a bunk versus a portable that takes up floor space.

Dometic Truck Products

I know money is not always free flowing, especially for vintage types who always have something to fix (Right Tim?)


HTH,

Mud

[yukionna]

Originally Posted by muddy_hollow

One of the products I found while surfing one night was an under bunk AC unit from Dometic. SoldierMedic and I exchanged email on this and I'm kinda keen on this as an AC solution for vintage trailers. NOT cheap that is for sure, but it does two things; 1.) no big box ontop or unit hanging out a window 2.) saves space by being located under a bunk versus a portable that takes up floor space.

I'm also of the mind to not retro fit an A/C box on top of the trailer in a vintage rig. There is a challenge in smaller rigs (i.e., less than 19') to find a space inside to install a self contained unit like you mentioned. I know in my 17' Bambi II, I don't have any place to locate a unit like that. But I like it and will think about using it in my 22' FC. Thanks for the link. Any idea on what pricing would be?

[muddy_hollow]

I think it was about $2300 for the unit, less any accessories like vent grills.

For you FC it would be perfect, just need to plan for it under a bunk.

[till]

Well, Steve and his wife just left for the final leg on the trip home with thier Caravanner. Wow is it beautiful!!

They are a great couple and I am sure they will have fun camping now. I will let Steve post the details when he gets home. God's speed and a safe trip home to them.....

[soldiermedic]

Hello All,

For my 500th post, I will bring you photos and the story of the journey that brought my 56 Caravanner from Michigan to Missouri.

Amy and I decided to leave on Friday evening to break the trip into a few days. I had not driven this long of a haul for quite some time, and didn't know how Amy or I would take to the long trip (being only our second long trip on the road together). We departed St. Louis, MO at 6 PM Friday and made it all the way to South Haven, MI just after midnight central time.

This was the final weekend of the Tulip Festival in nearby Holland, MI and hotel rooms were slim pickings (Smoking Rooms for $130/Night). I was able to find a room at the comfort in that gladly gave me the room at the government rate of $64.00 (Thank you military I.D.). The hotel made out great considering we were there for only 6 hours overall.

The next morning we made our way quickly to Grand Rapids, MI and hit a major detour since there was an Olymipic qualifier race. I called Gregg the P.O. and was given instructions how to circumvent the traffic. We arrived at his home shortly after, and had to squint as we pulled into his barn area where our trailer was due to the trailers high luster.

We toured the coach and saw everything that had been done to it. There are a few things that will need to be done to make it homey, and more functional, but I can handle that. We pulled it up the hill and Amy and I began going through old interior parts for useful pieces. After about an hour, David Winick showed up and showed us a few more things dealing with electrical.

For some reason, I stepped out of my car with my lights still on and noticed that the running lights were not working. This was a concern because I couldn't travel at night or in bad weather. David and Gregg brought out a trickle charger and tried to figure out what was going on. Unfortunately, they were unable to figure it out. The 7-Pin head on my umbilical is not removable with a set screw, and is a single molded piece. My brake lights, 4-ways, and turn signals all worked, but nothing else. The brakes had not been wired in this trailer (Imagine my suprize).

After messing with the running lights over an hour we called it quits. The wiring is all new, and there is no reason for it to be messed up. After this, Amy and I were offered a chance to visit David's shop just down the road from Gregg's house. Realizing that we had the opportunity to see where one of the greatest Airstream restoration geniuses did his handywork, we graciously accepted. We toured David's shop and soon got back on the road.

Due to the wiring problems with the trailer, I knew I would not be able to make it back to St. Louis before dark. We accepted an offer from Till to courtesy park in his driveway. To my delight, he is also well versed in electronics, and trailer wiring. To my dissapointment, we were unable to figure out why the running lights were not operational. Till thinks it may have something to do with my tail lights having a brake, turn, and running light in tham, and that the trailer may be getting overridden by the vehicle lights. I have no idea, but we need to figure something out, and fix it soon.
Till and his family were very hospitable and were extremely pleasant. We felt that we had an excellent first experience with courtesy parking.

We left Till's home around 0830 and made it home to St. Louis just after 2 PM. I then unloaded the vehicle, set the trailer up in the driveway, and mowed the grass (It was getting scary).

I have a few other posts to add after this because I have alot of pictures.

Steve

[Sugarfoot]

OH, WOW! Doesn't it look great in your rear view mirror. I'm so tickled for y'all. And what a great opportunity to tour the Winick shop. Glad you're home safe. Wish I could help with the wiring issue, but it sounds like something that would be easy to fix if the problem could be identified. However, therein lies the problem.

Congratulations on your full acquisition of the Orient Express.

[soldiermedic]

In one of the pics you can see a space about a foot long from the rear of the trailer to the bed. I plan on building a set of cabinets (Think hampers) out of 1/8" plywood to take that space. It will be a hideaway/hamper and will only contain things when I am set up for camping. Also in the plans for the sleeping area is adding a bedframe that will be mounted into small blocks of wood where its feet will be placed. A curtain will also be added for privacy.

For the kitchen we will be adding a shelf above the counter for decoration and functional storage.

The low cabinet next to the twin endcap couch will have a cushion fabricated for it, and a teble with pedestal leg will be fabricated for dining in (Incase it storms or is too cold).

I plan to reuse the old swivel cone lights from my Safari for additional lighting in my rear bed area. They will be mounted near the top of the wall above the LCD TV.

Comments?

Steve

[soldiermedic]

These pics are some of the parts I took from the PO. Didn't know what everyone needed, so I took what looked to be in good condition and what was original.

Here are some original doors with a squeeze latch. Not bad shape at all.

The sinks were porcelined enamel that are dirty, but just need a cleaning. They were held together by the two trim pieces in the picture.

This is part of the original front endcap. I also have the door.

Also seen here is the OEM faucet, and the slide track from the original overhead cabinet.

Steve

[Sugarfoot]

Keep the pics coming! She looks great.

How stupid of me, I got so enthralled looking at the OE that I forgot to congratulate you for Rivet Master status! What a perfect post for the occasion. You have truly been down the rivet road and look what you found at the end of the rivet rainbow.

[Beginner]

Steve
Tail light circutry has changed over the years.
To determine what you have do this.
Have your wife (or other trusted friend) get in the Tow Vehicle (TV), start it and place their foot on the brake pedal.
1. Make careful note of which lights in each tail light assembly come on (position in the tail light assembly-top or bottom or whole assembly), have them continue to depress the brake pedal thus leaving the brake lights on (illuminated).
2. Have them turn on one of the turn signals (it dosent matter which one).
Is the brake light (the light that came on in paragraph #1) blinking or is the tail light assembly blinking (some OTHER bulb) somewhere else (usually the top of the assembly)?
Get back to me.
Beginner

[yukionna]

Nice job on the restoration! You must be so pleased to finally get her home. I bet heads were swiveling to look at your trailer on the drive home!

[soldiermedic]

Originally Posted by Beginner

Steve
Tail light circutry has changed over the years.
To determine what you have do this.
Have your wife (or other trusted friend) get in the Tow Vehicle (TV), start it and place their foot on the brake pedal.
1. Make careful note of which lights in each tail light assembly come on (position in the tail light assembly-top or bottom or whole assembly), have them continue to depress the brake pedal thus leaving the brake lights on (illuminated).
2. Have them turn on one of the turn signals (it dosent matter which one).
Is the brake light (the light that came on in paragraph #1) blinking or is the tail light assembly blinking (some OTHER bulb) somewhere else (usually the top of the assembly)?
Get back to me.
Beginner

Jim,

Just went out for the little experiment. I have a three section tail light. Top, middle, and bottom.

1) When the brakes are pressed, the top light in the assembly is lit.

2) When the left/right turn signal or hazards are on, the middle light is blinking.

3) When I turn my headlights on, the top lights are lit all the time. So the vehicle running lamps are the same bulb as the brakes.

Please call me if you can since this is all a mystery to me.

Also going to look into the brake issue today and hope to NOT have to drop belly pan. Also remember that this trailer was wired completely new by David during the beginning of the refurbishing, so the original wires aren't there.

Steve

[Beginner]

Steve
Thats what I thought.
Here is what you have on the Tow Vehicle(TV).
1. Top Section: Brake and Tail lights. This one bulb has two filaments in it.
A dim filament for for the tail light function and a bright filament for the brake light function.
2. Center Section: Turn Signal Light Only.

Explaination:
1. The top section dim light is in common with all the other lights that come on when you turn on the parking lights or headlights on the TV.

2. The top section Bright light only illuminates when you step on the brake pedal.

3. The center section only illuminates when you turn on the turn signals or hazards. This function (turn and hazard) is seperate and has no effect on any other lights on the vehicle(except those that come on when you hit the turn signals or hazards/this includes the front parking lights [also dual element bulbs] and may include some of the side lights)

Your trailer, on the other hand is wired differently. I know, just what you wanted to hear.

You have two light fixtures on the back(wedding cake Bargmans) of your trailer. The one bulb in each of these two fixtures has two elements in it. You guessed it, a dim one and a bright one.

This older technology works like this as did the automobiles of the day.

Dim Elements: Tail Light, is in common with the dim element in the tail light on the right and left side of the trailer (or will be when your are finished) and all the clearance lights(running lights) on the trailer.

Bright Elements: You should have a single wire that illuminates the bright element on the right side of the trailer and another wire that illuminates the
the bright element on the left side of the trailer.

This is the left and right brake lights.

When this trailer was made when you stepped on the brake pedal both bright lights on the rear of the trailer would illuminate.

If you turned on the right turn signal, the right bright element would blink.

When you turned on the left turn signal the left bright element would blink.

Not to worry.

A box is made that translates or electrically adapts the new system in your TV to the old system in the trailer.

Don't get upset, this is one of the things you run into.

Someone here on the forums has done this before and will advise you on whether to wire the conversion box into the TV system or your trailer.

If you can get someone there local to give you a hand with this it will go smoother.

If not, do you have a multimeter?
Beginner

[soldiermedic]

Jim,

Does al of this still count after we last spoke? My tail lights are not wedding cake bargmans (They are actually school bus lights).

I received an email from Mr. Winick. He suggested taking the outlet side of the green running light wire (There are two of them) and hooking them each to a 12v power supply. He figures that they both cannot be bad. THis would help in figuring out where the problem lies.

Steve

[47WeeWind]

Hi Steve:

You need a trailer light convereter kit that converts the three separate light filaments on 3 separate circuits on your tow vehicle to match the two light filaments in 2 circuits on your Airstream. Here are two such products from J.C. Whitney:

Acar STANDARD TRAILER LIGHT CONVERTER KITS : JC Whitney: Truck Accessories & Parts

One of these 2 products might solve your problem, you just gotta figure out which one it is. You also have to determine whether your 2006 Chevy Trailblazer is "computer controlled" and thus not ameniable to this fix, so check your owner's manual before ordering. Happy wiring!