Why should I convert my bolts to studs and nuts?

[lebolewis]

UH.......call me dense, but I don't understand why it is so desirable to replace lug bolts with lug nuts and studs! Sounds like a lot of hastle and expense. I have lug bolts all around, 24 of them, and I am currently repainting the heads of 12 of them with aluminum color paint to cover the rust. I treat the rust first.

Would someone enlighten me?

Thanks, Bill

[87MH]

Originally Posted by lebolewis

UH....... I have lug bolts all around, 24 of them, and I am currently repainting the heads of 12 of them with aluminum color paint to cover the rust.

Do you have Aluminum Rims?

The cone/contact angle of the bolt/nut to aluminum rim is different than that required for steel wheels. The stud/bost length must also be longer for the aluminum rims than for the steel wheels, therefore the problem with the lug bolts.

I was unable to locate bolts long enough and with the proper seat angle required, so I went the replacement stud route for my steel to aluminum swap. By the time I purchased the studs and then the specialized aluminum nut caps I had a more than nominal sum invested in hardware.

[vajeep]

Our 1976 had the Airstream lug bolts. After I stripped one of the bolts I converted all my wheels to the studs with chrome lug nuts. IMHO the studs are much safer. The Airstream lug bolts were fine with steel wheels, but the Aluminum wheels were thicker and the bolts were not using enough of the threads.
Abe

[vajeep]

Originally Posted by lebolewis

UH.......call me dense, but I don't understand why it is so desirable to replace lug bolts with lug nuts and studs! Sounds like a lot of hastle and expense. I have lug bolts all around, 24 of them, and I am currently repainting the heads of 12 of them with aluminum color paint to cover the rust. I treat the rust first.

Would someone enlighten me?

Thanks, Bill

Bill,
I started to paint my lugs, but got the chrome acorn nuts instead 13/16.
I still cary 6 of the bolts just in case my steel spare would bottom out the acorn lug nuts.
here is a photo

[Dwight]

Try this site, the Mcgard lug nuts and bolts have been made since the 1960's and they have a lifetime warranty on rust, chips, etc.

McGard Wheel Locks and Centercap Locks

[lebolewis]

I bought this 76 Sovereign used. It is all original. It came with aluminum wheels (original) and LUG BOLTS, they seem to work just fine, except for the rusted heads on 12 out of 24. Using RUST MORT and aluminum paint to restore them. Bill

[Beginner]

When I converted to 16 inch wheels I had to go to longer bolts or change to studs.
I ordered the following from Southwest Wheel:

P/N 25-053: 26 each: Stud 1/2-Fine Both Ends
P/N 30822: 26 each: Chrome Nut 1/2-20 Acorn Long

Had two of them tested for tensle and hardness. They proved to be harder and broke at a higher pull than the than the original Lug bolt.
You can see them in my gallery.
Beginner

[Ganglin]

All this makes me glad I didn't win the set of Alcoa wheels and mounted tires that Airstream put on Ebay. I'd have been really p.o.'d if I had and then found out the bolts had to be replaced. Especially since I called Airstream during the bidding to confirm they would fit and was told - no problem. Good luck to all of you that have this situation.

[Action]

Changing the tire/wheel assy is much easier with studs than with the bolts. The wheel can hang on the studs while I look for the scattered nuts.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[Inland RV Center, In]

The bolts have a very bad habit of easily stripping out the threads.

Andy

[bhayden]

It's a little easier to change the tire with studs but the rim will balance fairly easily on the hub. With bolts the threads are always protected. Same could be true with studs IF you have the right length to be able to use acorn nuts.

The threads on bolts should be stronger (assuming you have the proper grade of bolt). You can get stainless bolts but not sure about studs; I think you're limited to steel. If the threads are damaged or coroded on studs it's harder to replace than a bolt. However, if you damage the threads in the drum (more likely with bolts) then that's a real hassle.

It's easier to find locking lug nuts than bolts (if it's even possible to find locking bolts?).

-Bernie

[lebolewis]

Just replaced the 12 LUG BOLTS, after treating the rust and re-painting the heads with Aluminum paint. They look great! All went on easily with only finger pressure, and then I torqued them to 90 pounds. Ready to go! Rolling, rolling, rolling! Bill

[PizzaChop]

Abe, the blue hubs behind the slotted mags look really sharp!

Dennis, I'd be curious to know what you did.

I too purchased new aluminum rims with new tires and had the same dilemma.

I modified one hub using hardened threaded rod (1/2"-20 TPI, B7) and cutting it into 2.5" studs. I applied threadlock and bottomed out the stud into the hub (about 1.25") using a double nut. Then I welded a blob from the backside inside each hole (the hole goes all the way through, the threads stop about 1/2" from the inside).

I torqued the nuts down to 100 ft lbs and loosened them twice and the studs held fast.

Then I changed my mind and decided it was too much trouble since I was going to change out the axles fairly soon anyway. Now the axles are on order and I have one converted hub, at least 8 studs cut and a 3' section of threaded rod I can return to Fastenal for $22.

You're right about the price of materials.

[Beginner]

If you buy the studs, I furnished the part numbers, at the approproiate spot there is a fat spot to bottom out on the brake drum so that the stud will not go all the way through. Red locktite will finish the job nicely and the studs will not come out.
Beginner