Wheel usage question.

[garthbf]

I have acquired a 1960 overlander. I need to bring it home. It is about 500 miles away. It has been sitting for over 10 years so I know the tires are toast. My question is can I use the tires and wheels from my 1975 31 footer to bring it home? They are aluminum wheels and have 225-75 on them.
The 1975 has lug bolts so I think I will need to get new lug nuts. Is this correct? Is the cone angle different for aluminum and steel?
Thanks,
Garth

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by garthbf

I have acquired a 1960 overlander. I need to bring it home. It is about 500 miles away. It has been sitting for over 10 years so I know the tires are toast. My question is can I use the tires and wheels from my 1975 31 footer to bring it home? They are aluminum wheels and have 225-75 on them.
The 1975 has lug bolts so I think I will need to get new lug nuts. Is this correct? Is the cone angle different for aluminum and steel?
Thanks,
Garth

If you use lug nuts from steel wheels on your aluminum wheels, you will damage them.

There are several types of lug bolts that are used on your aluminum wheels.

To guess which one is not wise.

Can you post a close up of your wheel and of the mounting holes?

Andy

[garthbf]

I finally got photos of the wheels and bolts.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by garthbf

I finally got photos of the wheels and bolts.

Your lug bolts are tapered.

As long as the lug bolt "seat" in the wheel is tapered, your ok the way they are.

But your 60 trailer takes lug nuts, not bolts.

Andy

[dscluchfc]

To me it makes more sense to take the tires and wheels off the 1960 and purchase tires before towing it home than to hassle with taking the tires/wheels off the 1975 trailer.
I mean....you are going to have to buy tires for the new one anyways...why not pick a reputable national source to buy the new tires and get it over with?
--- your mileage will probably vary---

[Wabbiteer]

Would renting a trailer and winching the '60 onto it for the haul home be cheaper since this is a project trailer - after buying tires early on my rehab project they now have over a year aging and the trailer hasn't moved yet. Maybe not the best use of those dollars early in the game, just a thought since the wheel bearing and brakes are in need of a check up too...

[metalhead]

I have a similar situation with a 1970 tandem I am buying. 250 miles away and the tires are shot. The nearest city is only 7 miles away so I called a chain store (Discount Tire) and they have a store there and the tires I am looking for (15/700). It will be a slow 7 mile drive just in case.

On another note, does anyone know what bolt pattern a 1970 would use?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by metalhead

On another note, does anyone know what bolt pattern a 1970 would use?

6 bolts on a 5 1/2 inch circle.

That is how that trailer was built.

Keep in mind that someone could have changed axles, used 10 inch brakes and put on 5 lugs on a 4 1/2 bolt circle.

It happens, when an owner changes the original design, for whatever reason they may have had.

Best you call the seller and ask how many bolts one wheel has.

Also, keep in mind, that the axles may be shot. Best you check them out too. A quick check is to see how much of the tire, "above the wheel" can you see. It should be about 2 inches. If you cannot see the top of the wheels, the axles are finished. Stand along the side of the trailer, about 20 to 25 feet away and stoop down so that your eyes are about level with the top of the tires.

1974 and older Airstream trailers, will have axle failures, it's just a matter of when. The composition of the rubber rods, back then, in time, simply gave out, allowing the trailer to become lower than it should. This results in bottoming out when you hit even small bumps. That, in turn causes many different types of damage to the trailer.

Another clue, would be if the trailer was parked for as long time, without removing any weight from the axles. That's a sure death for the rubber rods, regardless of the year, and regardless who made the torsion axle.

Rubber must be exercised. If not, in time, it will take a set. When that happens, the axles are finished.

Andy

[AirConditioner]

Andy: I'm planning to replace my axle assemblies on my 72 Overlander with Henschens and change over to aluminum 15 inch wheels with a yet undetermined tire brand (700x15 or 225 R75 15)

Do the aluminum wheels have to be hubcentric on my present and replacement hubs? I'm assuming also that the wheels will use a matching conical nut onto the hub's studs.
Thanks

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by AirConditioner

Andy: I'm planning to replace my axle assemblies on my 72 Overlander with Henschens and change over to aluminum 15 inch wheels with a yet undetermined tire brand (700x15 or 225 R75 15)

Do the aluminum wheels have to be hubcentric on my present and replacement hubs? I'm assuming also that the wheels will use a matching conical nut onto the hub's studs.
Thanks

The Henschen hubs have studs.

You must use lug nuts that match whatever aluminum wheels you decide to purchase.

I would suggest you go with the radials load range "D," but keep the air pressure down to about 50 psi.

Andy

[DesertStream]

Garth -
If the wheels are original they are most likely split rims. It may be difficult to find a tire shop to install new tires on split rims. You may be ahead trailering it as suggested or buying new rims and tires to take with you.

Good luck with your new acquisition.