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Old 07-01-2009, 12:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post

Rubber must be exercised as well as neoprene, to stay alive.

I think the difference between the life of grease seals on cars versus Airstreams, depends on the frequency of use.

Using our cars as we do, keeps the seals going.

Using an Airstream typically every few months, I think is what has the negative effect on the seals
Andy,

Makes sense to me.

Thanks for the pics of the magnets—it's always easier to know what to do when you have a visual example. The magnets in my wheels seem to just lie there and aren't attached to anything (but the wires). Is that ok?

Gene
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:16 PM   #16
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Andy,

Makes sense to me.

Thanks for the pics of the magnets—it's always easier to know what to do when you have a visual example. The magnets in my wheels seem to just lie there and aren't attached to anything (but the wires). Is that ok?

Gene
They better be attached to a shaft so that they can slide in and out as necessary.

They cannot come off by themselves unless that shaft breaks.

There is a keeper in the center, that holds them in place, sort off.

Andy
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:53 PM   #17
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I'll take comfort in that "sort of" and that 4 shafts couldn't all break, or at least the chance of that is really, really small. The looseness of them is accountable to the fact they slide. I couldn't figure out just how they worked, but I didn't pay that much attention when I had the drums off. Thanks for the education.

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Old 07-01-2009, 05:45 PM   #18
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I'll take comfort in that "sort of" and that 4 shafts couldn't all break, or at least the chance of that is really, really small. The looseness of them is accountable to the fact they slide. I couldn't figure out just how they worked, but I didn't pay that much attention when I had the drums off. Thanks for the education.

Gene
Gene.

The old style brakes have the stud that the round magnets slides on.

New style brakes, have a flat shaft that the magnet slides on. It's not likely to break, "ever."

Andy
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:03 PM   #19
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Old thread here but good info. I'm in the middle of brakes & bearings on my triple axle Excella. I've got a couple drums with scoring on the flat face of the drum (magnet contact), but brake surface looks very good. Lots of pad left but most of my magnets are wearing out. I'm wondering if I replace the brake backing plate assembly (mainly for new magnets) but don't have the drums machined if this will be a big deal?

Also, it seems as though I can see in the right light a faint straw-color to the smaller outer bearings. I see no flaw other than this slight discoloration, no color change or marks on the races either. Inside (big) bearings all look fine. Should these bearings/races be replaced? And, if so can I leave the inner bearings and races alone and just replace the outers?

Any help is much appreciated.
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:28 PM   #20
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Big deal?

Binkers,
What would be a big deal? Your brakes not working when you need them to? Yes, it could be a big deal if you don't follow the manufacturers recommendations.
Magnets must be replaced in pairs (each axle end) and the armature surface must be refaced whenever the magnet is replaced.
From the Dexter service manual-
"The machined inner surface of the brake drum that contacts the brake magnet is called the armature surface. If the armature surface is scored or worn unevenly, it should be refaced to a 120 micro inch finish by removing not more than .030" of material. To ensure proper contact between the armature face and the magnet face, the magnets should be replaced whenever the armature surface is refaced and the armature surface should be refaced whenever the magnets are replaced"

I refer to this Timken inspection criteria for bearings-
Tapered Roller Bearing Damage Analysis.pdf
You must replace the cup and cone as a set, if needed.
600-8K_Complete_Service_Manual_1-12.pdf

For the DIY guy, if the shoes are in good shape, I'd replace the magnet and reface the armature. Refacing the armature surface may cost as much as a new drum. It depends on the machine shop you use. It may be less expensive to replace the backing plates and drums in some instances. Shop around for a good deal on parts.
Good luck!
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:43 PM   #21
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Andy,
Thanks for the advice on magnet wear. So far all I could find was if the coil wires were showing.

I just found a drum with worn armature face. I had it turned and replaced the magnet. Doing the same on the other end of the axle even though it looks good. No significant wear grooves on the armature face.

I think the worn drum is sitting a little deeper on the axle stub. Either a manufacturing error or the inside race cavity was machined deeper for some reason. The cotter pin hole is almost high enough that it will not engage the castellated nut.

Al
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:34 AM   #22
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Since I tow close to 15,000 miles a year, I set up a regular routine to drive through JC in November and April each year and have my running gear checked. I just had new axles with nerverlubes/electric brakes installed, along with new 16" wheels and Michelin LTX225/75R16(E) tires. By having them check the running gear regularly and replace any part of it even on suspicion of wear (let's err on the side of caution), I don't have to worry about the running gear.
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