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Old 02-16-2017, 02:07 PM   #1
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1991 25' Excella
Santa Ynez , California
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What Wheels For a 69 Globetrotter?

I am considering buying a trailer that has not been on the road in at least 4 years and tire age is unknown beyond that.
My route is 850 mi. one way and only 3 days available so would have no time to have tires mounted at the sellers, especially on a sunday.
So my questions are, what wheels would I need for this, bolt pattern and offset? What jack works best and how tall or short should it be? Have never looked under one to see jack point.
Thanks for any input.
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:18 PM   #2
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If it was me, I wouldn't worry about tires, until I bought the trailer. Then the fun begins. I would add a extra day and $$ to your trip for unexpected mishaps. Where is the trailer located? Breaks are just important as tires. Do not tow in snow. Keep us posted.
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:34 PM   #3
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I would rather spend the money in advance and avoid mishaps and time (wife's schedule is not flexible), not worry about tires on a single axle trailer? After all I know they need to replaced anyway.
Southwest so snow should not be a problem nor are brakes with a Tundra and a controller, assuming brakes function on GT.
The whole situation may be beyond reason but that's why I started this thread.

Alan
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Old 02-16-2017, 04:34 PM   #4
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I had a similar circumstance and week-end adventure “recovering” my GT from The Hills of Tennessee.


The wheels that fit are 6” wide, Zero offset, 5.5” bolt-circle, six lug. They should be load rated as “trailer” wheels and not Chevy truck. Any genuine Airstream, Avion... steel wheel is a good choice.


There was a change in hub-cap mount in the early seventies. Original1969 wheels, I'm pretty sure, in “Land Yacht” trim will still have the “six-clip” style baby moons, but maybe with the “International” upgrade they were full covers. Early 70s “4-nub” style wheels most often had full wheel covers, but older hot-rod baby moons fit. New After-market “3-nub” 15” wheels have a slightly different “nub-circle” than the early seventies “4-nub” Airstream wheels, consequently, they will have their own size baby moons that the early seventies moons don't fit. A nice pair of six-clip three edge ribbed baby moons can cost $200, and only fit “clip” style wheels..


The “Tire du Jour” Is the 15” Michelin Defender, formerly the 235-15 LTX MS2. Can't beat 'em.


Be doubly sure the door is secure. That's a sickening lesson to avoid.


You might need more time.


Be Safe, Happy Trails
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Old 02-16-2017, 04:41 PM   #5
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I am fairly certain that the '69 had the same bolt pattern as my '73. I bought trailer rims and wheels at Northern Tool for around $190 each. I believe what I bought is shown in the link below:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5282_200365282

These babies are ugly white-spoke utility trailer wheels, but the load rating is right for the GT, and they will get you home. If you are in a bind for time and are heading out soon, these will work, just not pretty.

I was in a similar situation: had to drive 600 miles to recover the trailer and knew I would arrive late Saturday night, so bought the wheels on my way out of town. That was the way to go, as there would have been zero option to do it Sunday morning in the small town I bought the trailer in. Similarly, the original rims were so pitted and rusty, that I doubt if I could have just mounted a new tire on the rims and had them seal. Make sure that if you buy rims and tires, that you check the air pressure in them before mounting them on the trailer. I didn't, and discovered that my tires had really low pressure in them, after driving down the road a ways with them.

Your jack point is a large beefy plate that extends for about the length of the wheel well, and the axle is bolted to it. As I recall, you will need a jack that will lift the trailer at least 18". You don't want to be futzing around with an "emergency" type road-side scissor jack, so I would recommend just bringing along your good old trusty hydraulic floor jack and some SUV sized jack stands.

There is no guarantee that the lights or brakes will work. This should be a fairly light trailer that you can tow back without brakes if you drive with caution. I brought along some temporary trailer lights and an extension wire that added about 6 ft. so that I would have brake lights and turn signals. Be aware that in '69 they had a different standard for the configuration of the trailer wiring (does not match today's standard), so unless someone has made a modification at the whip, or in the whip, the wiring config may be entirely incompatible. This is a question to ask your seller, as it is nice to have brakes and a properly working break-away switch, not to mention lights. If the whip/trailer plug-in is original, then there may be round pins/sockets on it, which may be incompatible with your modern RV flat sockets on your TV.

Make sure you ask all the questions, get all the pictures, etc., before setting out. The danger is that if you drive 850 miles, you are NOT going to go home empty handed, and you may end up buying a trailer that is a much bigger project than you want to sign up for. I was only looking for something that needed some sprucing up, and now I am 4 years into a shell-off and complete rebuild.

Take the trailer buyers's inspection check list with you so that you at least have an idea of whether the trailer is safe to tow. Every seller thinks their trailer is in great shape, yet most of them have rotting frames and rear-end separation. Also, mirror extensions are a nice thing to have for your drive home.

Good luck!
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Old 02-16-2017, 04:58 PM   #6
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1991 25' Excella
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Thanks to both of you.
I had started to think about "do the lights work" and you reminded me I have magnetic set of trailer light that would be smart to have with me too.
This trailer is actually in pretty nice condition but for sure more questions need to answered before I set out.
I was hoping the set of Jeep wheels I have might work but they are 5 on 5.5 bolt center.
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:51 PM   #7
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1969 31' Sovereign
Paris , Texas
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Recommend bringing enough tools to take wheel hubs off. Had a spring come apart on brakes on my 69 last summer on vacation. Locked the wheel up. Fortunately we were just leaving the trailer park. Pulled hub and removed the broken brake hardware and continued down the road.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:37 AM   #8
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I towed a 35 year old Overlander from Indiana to Phoenix. The trailer had been unused for 5+ years.

Sounds like you have thought this tow for some issues. Hopefully none will be needed.

If you bring aired up tires on wheels you would be good there. If not make sure to bring a pump. If any question on the pressure, for this trip, err on the highest pressure!
Tire gauge
Spare light bulbs
The magnet mount lights could work and it is an aluminum skinned trailer. Not a lot of iron
Be clear on the electrical connection between your vehicle and the trailer. Airstream did some funky wire locations in the 7 way connector. My 66 was strange and I had to move wiring in that connector after I got it home. 69 was a new generation of wider body trailers with several changes. Wiring may have been one of those.
The side door can be a real issue (coming unlatched and breaking off)
Some wire, butt connectors, tape of different kinds, rags.
If tanks have any fluids, figure out a way to empty to reduce weight.

After towing for 50 miles check hub temps from side to side. If the same you are good to get home. This could be a good excuse to buy a IR temp tester.

Other than that just take it easy when towing over rough areas. You will do well.

>>>>>>>>Action
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:51 AM   #9
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1969 31' Sovereign
Paris , Texas
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Another thing to consider is a pop rivet gun and rivets. When I transported mine home after buying, one of the side trim pieces came loose and stuck out about 4ft from the trailer. Luckily it was on the curb side. Had to pull over and pop some rivets in. On the side door you can get a strip of plywood, drill a hole in it and slide it under the grab handle and zip tie to the handle to keep the door from flying open in transit.
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:49 PM   #10
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Hauula , Hawaii
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Remove the wheel bearing caps with a screwdriver and install fresh bearings and pack with grease. It doesn't take long. The bearings are as common as can be, inexpensive and you'll save a lot of headache from old dry bearings that heat up and seize.

I travelled 2000 miles last fall to pick up my 31' in Louisiana. We were well prepared, or so I thought. The truck I was driving suffered a rear end failure just as we arrived to pick up the trailer. I spent all my time rebuilding it and had to leave the trailer behind! But it's a good excuse to go back again to a beautiful part of the country.

Good luck to you!

marc
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Old 02-17-2017, 02:27 PM   #11
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Welcome to the forums! On your gt,be careful what tires you put on. I iwned a 70 gt and new trailer tires were too wide. Stay with the same size that is on your trailer now. Kurt
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Old 02-17-2017, 04:30 PM   #12
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I had the same problem on my 67 the Michelin 235s were way to wide to fit in the wheel well. They were just too fat all the way around.
If you Google it there is a conversion chart to get you from the original size tire to what they are now.
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Old 02-17-2017, 04:34 PM   #13
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http://www.vintagecarconnection.com/...sion_chart.htm
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Old 02-17-2017, 04:40 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingo Girl View Post
I had the same problem on my 67 the Michelin 235s were way to wide to fit in the wheel well. They were just too fat all the way around.
If you Google it there is a conversion chart to get you from the original size tire to what they are now.
From the AS archives the original equipment on the caravel and Gt was 7.00-15, from what im seeing the crossover to current size would be a 225/75-15 and im not seeing a Michelin(prefered) in that size.
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