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Skamper1 · 03-09-2010, 06:18 AM

Hopefully get to put on two wheels this week. Know I will be taking them back off within two weeks. Can I use vaseline on the lug bolts to ease installing and removing the lug nuts? Have to remove the other two wheels, scrape rust, prime and repaint. Seems like the easiest thing to do now. Thanks. Jack

easyride · 03-09-2010, 06:25 AM

From what I have read,NO LUBRICANT ON THREADS,it will give you a false torque. Dave

craftsman · 03-09-2010, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skamper1

Hopefully get to put on two wheels this week. Know I will be taking them back off within two weeks. Can I use vaseline on the lug bolts to ease installing and removing the lug nuts? Have to remove the other two wheels, scrape rust, prime and repaint. Seems like the easiest thing to do now. Thanks. Jack

Use "anti-seize" which you can buy at auto stores, it's copper based usually silver in color ,won't affect torque values and will prevent lug nuts from rusting on the studs and will ease installation and removal...

pmclemore · 03-09-2010, 08:16 AM

They won't seize in two weeks. Don't worry about lube.

Pat

Ag&Au · 03-09-2010, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skamper1

Hopefully get to put on two wheels this week. Know I will be taking them back off within two weeks. Can I use vaseline on the lug bolts to ease installing and removing the lug nuts? Have to remove the other two wheels, scrape rust, prime and repaint. Seems like the easiest thing to do now. Thanks. Jack

Something similar was discussed recently.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ion-61823.html

regards,

Ken

Mikethefixit · 03-09-2010, 08:38 AM

Id just wire brush the threads and put the wheels on. If they are dry and rust free and you are takin em off in a couple of weeks,I dont think any lub would be required. However I also use anti seize compounds if they wheels are to be left on for any length of time.

Bluto · 03-09-2010, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by craftsman

Use "anti-seize" which you can buy at auto stores, it's copper based usually silver in color ,won't affect torque values and will prevent lug nuts from rusting on the studs and will ease installation and removal...

Agree with you 100%. I have been using that stuff forever. It doesn't take a lot, "a little dab will do ya".

Skamper1 · 03-09-2010, 10:16 AM

Thanks. Will get some "anti-seize". Thanks to this forum I was able to release them after over ten years of rust. The cheater bar and penetrating oil were the trick. Sprayed them three days in a row. Guess now you know why I want them to come off easier the second time! Lug bolts looks great after oil and nuts removed old rust. Thanks again. Jack

**Kevin245** · 03-10-2010, 06:23 PM

I never thought of petroleum jelly but it should work in a pinch.

On the subject of thread lubrication of a "Torqued" connection... It is very important and is the only way you can achieve reliable readings.

Lubrication reduces the friction created between the thread surfaces during nut installation.

Let’s look at the “Torque” issue as it relates to structural bolting such as our trailer wheels.

When we tighten our lug nuts we’re actually loading the stud to a “Stretched” condition so it compresses or clamps the connection together and holds things nice and tight.

Therefore we want the studs to stretch so that the connection always stays in the “Clamped State”.

We measure this clamping force using a “Torque” wrench that gives us a value of the effort required to tighten the connection to a desired amount so that the stud stretches enough to stay clamped.

So we end up with a “Rotational Effort to Clamp Load Ratio”.

For example…Let’s say I apply 100 lbs. ft. to my new wheel studs per the manufacturer’s recommendation and this stretches the stud 0.01 inches which equals say 5,000 lbs of clamping force.

Now five years later I change the tires out and I re-install the wheel studs but now the threads are dirty or rusty so I clean them off but don’t lubricate them.

Without lubrication the friction coefficient is much greater than it was when I had clean lubricated threads.

So now when I tighten my wheel studs to the manufacturer’s specification of 100 lbs. ft. using my torque wrench I don’t stretch the studs 0.01 inches as before because the increased friction causes a false read on the torque wrench.

Then I end up with a clamping force that is much lower than intended which can lead to loosened connections, or broken studs.

Regards,

Kevin