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Old 04-08-2008, 02:27 PM   #29
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Just re-read your thread. I like the pics. Exactly what I was looking for. Can you send me your tire and wheel specs so I can order from our local guys? (I promise I won't park next to you)

Thanks,
Rolf

Quote:
Originally Posted by adonh
The 16" Eagle Alloy wheels and BF Goodrich Commercial TA tires have been installed. As it turned out Discount Tire did not have a chrome plated "Lug Bolt" that would work. So the wheel studs that I ordered were installed.

The 16" wheels and tires fit perfect on my 1976 31' Sovereign. No problems at all with clearances in the wheel well. The BF Goodrich tire is the same diameter as the old 700/15 LT tires that came standard on the 1976 A/S/.

Here some pictures of the installation.

As you can see by looking at the new tire next to the old tire they are right at the same height, about 29.4. The new tire is a little wider but did not pose a problem in fitting in the wheel well with room to spare. We installed the wheel studs with locktight red and used chrome lug nuts and wheel locks. There was quite crowd watching all of this at Discount Tire and everyone liked the end results.

Thanks for all of the feedback and input from everyone during this project.

I can provide full details on the tire, wheel and stud specs if anyone is interesed, just let me know.

Don Hardman
1976 31' A/S
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:08 PM   #30
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Don-

Karma to you for putting this info together in one place!

I'm making the switch to 16", too.

One quick question, did you order a steel wheel for the spare, or another aluminum one? I'm tempted to do the later since it's only $50 more and I could rotate the tire in for wear.
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:06 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPeakMD
One quick question, did you order a steel wheel for the spare, or another aluminum one?
Thansk for the Karma.

I took the easy way out for now, I didn't do anything. I have had Airstream trailers going back to 1985 and although I have always had a spare tire I have never used it. If I have a flat I think I could either remove the tire and take it somewhere to be fixed, or pull the trailer for a short distance on 3 wheels if need be. I still have the old i5" spare so I guess I could put cheaper tire on it just to have something to pull the trailer for a short distance at low speed that were necessary.

Don
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:46 PM   #32
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Don-

I decided to go with the Eagle Alloy wheels. I ordered one to make sure it would fit and it did. I'm also getting the BFG Commercial T/A's. I see there are two different dome style center caps available: 4.15" and 3.00" tall. Which one did use?
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:28 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPeakMD
Don-

I decided to go with the Eagle Alloy wheels. I ordered one to make sure it would fit and it did. I'm also getting the BFG Commercial T/A's. I see there are two different dome style center caps available: 4.15" and 3.00" tall. Which one did use?
I did not know that there were 2 sizes. They sent the caps with the wheels.

Don
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Old 05-05-2008, 10:21 AM   #34
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If all else fails, measure!!! If I understand their system correctly, then the measurement is from the hub face to the top of the cap. My axles and dust caps measure 3.5". My old wheel caps measure 4". I think I'll go with the 4.15" ones. I wish they had thrown these in with the wheels. For the price I paid, they should have!
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Old 05-05-2008, 11:55 PM   #35
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I had to go with the larger wheelcap as they stated that the hub was too long. Actually they are same size as an F350 or similar. The shorter ones were too short for the dust caps. They are inline with the rim. Out of all four tires, I have one on the left side front that has wee space and may rub on the inside. I figure that after a good run, that inside wall will wear back if there is any rubbing, my opinion, not a major deal. I wish you could click the torsion bars a bit, a 1/2" higher would be perfect. Maybe when I change out the axles someday. As long as you don't run hard on unpaved roads should be fine. I still like the way they look with the body polished. shiney twinkie.
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Old 05-06-2008, 06:44 AM   #36
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Tire Clearance

Define "wee space"?
Nothing should be touching the tire.
The inside wall "wearing back" will cause a weak spot in the tire.
If you like I'll measure the clearances on mine (BFG Commercial T/As/Eagle Alloy wheels/nitrogen, for two seasons now) and get back to you with that info.
My unit came origionally with the 7.00-15 8 ply and had ST225/75R15s on it when I bought it, so even though I went to a 1 inch wider wheel the dimensions of the BFG were within the dimentional parameters of the 7.00-15/ST225/75R15 tires.
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Old 05-06-2008, 09:30 AM   #37
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The "Wee Space" Concern

I think you mean between the wheel and the metal fender well (aka solid outrigger) for the front wheel. There is not much space there, especially if the axles are sagged! I know from experience! As Don mentioned earlier in the thread (I believe), these tires are the same diameter as the 7.00R15 Michelins that were OEM and came off my trailer after I bought it (15 years old--the tires, not the trailer--and still going strong, I might add!). The aluminum trim around the well well opening dips down in front of that fender well had been dislodged when I got my trailer. Probably from tire contact.
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Old 05-06-2008, 09:56 AM   #38
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Nuts! Lug nuts, that is...

I'm converting to disc brakes, so some of this may not apply to the original setup, BUT. I happened to notice that the Eagle Alloy 0580-7766-2-AA wheels have pretty small recessed openings for the lug nuts. Small enough that the standard acorn, open ended lug nuts that came with my Kodiak brakes will just fit, but forget about getting a standard socket over them! Wierd

OK, so here's where it gets interesting. If you have 1/2" studs, that translates to 13/16" hex lug nut. The recessed opening is roughly 1-1/8" on these wheels. No way are you getting a 13/16" impact socket OR standard 4-way lug wrench in there. In fact, even my 3/4" impact socket won't fit. The 11/16" will fit, but I don't think they make them small. Interesting.

The studs seem to fit through the holes themselves just fine with what looks like the standard amount of clearance between the hole and the stud.

I see they make "bulge acorn" nuts that are for 1/2" stud, but are 3/4" hex instead of 13/16". Better, but maybe not ideal.

You may ask, why am I worrying about this? Just take it to a tire store! Well, my local tire store people are not the brightest bulbs, let's leave it at that!
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Old 05-06-2008, 12:10 PM   #39
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Lug nuts

Get the long lug nuts form SouthWest wheel, that will take care of the problem.
I had to spin/grind down a good Craftsman 4 way lug wrench to clear the center cap. If not you are forced to use a standard thin wall Craftsman Deep socket on an extension.
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:14 PM   #40
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No nothing is actually rubbing the tire. On that front wheel, I could not get my finger through there, but there is space. On the opposite side however, not the case, plenty of room. Problem I am wondering is how much give the torsions will allow on a bump.
It may have been the same problem with the other tire before I changed them out to the T/A's. Never looked at them closely, but they were two years old and did not appear to be any damage or hints of damage. Tire size the same, just a bigger rim. I have to get under there and really get a good look. Is the inside wheel well or splash guard plastic or alum? Strange that it is only one tire out of four. I might have to drag it around the streets in town and then check for rub marks (after going through dips and such). I just wish I could crank the torsion down a bit similiar to a front end 2 wheel drive truck. But......
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Old 05-07-2008, 08:17 AM   #41
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Another thing is although these 16" tires are the same overall diameter as the old bias ply 700R15's, they are a different shape. The old bias ply tires had a pronounced roundness to the tread area, whereas these tires are pretty flat. So that inside tread edge is sticking out further up a little higher, probably a good 2" higher. Just a thought.

One way to know on the extent of movement on your torsion axles is to just back your trailer up on some boards so the rear wheel is off the ground and the front is supporting all the load for that side. It certainly won't hurt anything to do so and I'm guessing that would replicate the movement arc of the axle. You can look and see, but it will hit a hard stopping point in the upward arc. If your axles are sagged, then it will probably be surprisingly close to the starting point in their "resting" state. You'd be able to check for rubbing without causing any damage.
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Old 05-07-2008, 08:37 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beginner
Get the long lug nuts form SouthWest wheel...
Beginner
I cannot locate these on their website. Any tips?
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