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Old 04-16-2015, 09:41 AM   #29
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I bought the McGuards, they where a bit expensive. But quality lugs just are.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:48 PM   #30
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Stainless Steel Lug Nuts?

Thanks for these very helpful threads! I just put 20 of the McGards on these 'puny' stock 14 inchers on the FC 23 FB.

The left rear tire caught a nail on our very first rally trip, and I immediately wrecked a couple of the 'tin hat' nuts while changing to the spare.

That, and I realized just how useful a thin-walled six-sided 3/4 in deep socket can be.


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Old 04-21-2015, 11:43 PM   #31
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Interesting thread. Thanks for the information and will have to try and figure out where to source these.....
Thanks again

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Old 04-22-2015, 12:09 AM   #32
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Old 04-22-2015, 01:49 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
Easy enough to test for stainless. Put a magnet to them. Also remember that stainless does rust, it just takes it longer.
"There are five classes of stainless steel (ferritic, austenitic, martensitic, duplex, and precipitate-hardened) and only one is nonmagnetic (austenitic)." (Plagiarized from a Google search)

McGard makes "bulge" nuts and are good quality, but do not expect them to be readily available at the local Pep Boys... I had to special order them from the parts counter.

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Stainless is a "softer" metal, and is not designed to withstand the loads encountered as a wheel fastener. I have stainless roller rockers in one of my engines, but the loading is less and different than a wheel.
You WANT hardened steel. There is a reason you don't see stainless or aluminum lug nuts.
That's likely an opinion based upon personal experience with unspecified alloy. Stainless, like any other steel alloy, can be specified as to hardness and can be VERY hard (or soft) depending upon it's intended use.
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:40 AM   #34
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I had good luck sourcing them with Amazon. They were special order at two chain automotive stores, so the parts rep actually recommended online ordering.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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Old 04-22-2015, 09:16 AM   #35
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Thanks everyone for the links etc...
Just to confirm. Is it the (McGard 64010 1/2" - 20 Thread Size)
That I would need for my 28'?
Thanks

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Old 04-23-2015, 07:51 AM   #36
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"There are five classes of stainless steel (ferritic, austenitic, martensitic, duplex, and precipitate-hardened) and only one is nonmagnetic (austenitic)." (Plagiarized from a Google search)

McGard makes "bulge" nuts and are good quality, but do not expect them to be readily available at the local Pep Boys... I had to special order them from the parts counter.



That's likely an opinion based upon personal experience with unspecified alloy. Stainless, like any other steel alloy, can be specified as to hardness and can be VERY hard (or soft) depending upon it's intended use.
You are correct. There is a reason that Rockwell hardened stainless lug nuts are: Not common, expensive, more difficult to find. If standard off the shelf lug nuts aren't enough why not go with titanium lugs and studs? That's what I would use if I was racing my 31' at Talledega.......Whooohoo.
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:45 AM   #37
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Interesting thread. Thanks for the information and will have to try and figure out where to source these.....
Thanks again

Doug


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I got mine thru Amazon. They had them in stock with free Prime shipping and at the best price that I could find.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:07 PM   #38
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I've been following this thread, and just wanted to add a bit. I picked up replacement lug nuts from o'Relies auto parts. The have a SS cap, and a hardened steel lug. They were about $2.50 each. They look good so far. I wanted the 2" tall lugs, but they were $5 each. I could not justify the cost just to look a bit cooler.
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:39 PM   #39
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:09 PM   #40
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Don't forget to use Never Seeze I use the Marine version on everything from lug nuts to stainless bolts going into aluminum.
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:23 PM   #41
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Don't forget to use Never Seeze I use the Marine version on everything from lug nuts to stainless bolts going into aluminum.
I hear the engineers say you will get the torque wrong if you do that. But then again, I hear lots of people who have done it for +30 years and have never had a problem. Go figure.
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:20 PM   #42
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Ok, maybe found an explanation:

"There is a huge change in axial load when you coat both the threads and under the bolt head or nut, as compared with hardly any change in axial load when you apply anti seize to *only* the threads and not under the bolt head or nut."

"They say that about 90% of the input torque of the torque wrench is consumed by friction, with 50% of the friction being between the bolt head and mounting surface, 40% of the friction being in the threads, & only 10% being the stretch of the bolt which produces the axial force or preload. "

So, depending upon what lubricant and how much, if you only put it on the threads, you may be over-torquing by a modest amount. Maybe 10-20%. Put the lubricant on the mating surface also, and you may not get away with it. But considering how much lug nuts are abused, there must be a huge margin of error built into their design.
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