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Old 05-11-2010, 07:15 AM   #1
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Repacking the bearings how to...

I had read in the owners manual (some) about how to raise a wheel for changing a flat on this 70 model. My question is exactly how to go about doing it. My roomate said to let the air of the tire and the wheel would lift up. So what I am getting to here is how do we raise a wheel so we can repack the bearings? Does the wheel really need to be raised? and are there any videos you folks might have as a link that shows how the tires 'raise up' for maintenance . Thanks, Bill
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:36 AM   #2
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wheel bearing work

Hi Bill,
The easy way to raise a wheel for work or a flat is to pull the trailer up onto an elevated surface..the wheel not being worked on is on the raised surface...this will leave the other one off the ground. There is a special made "chock" made specially for this purpose.....I use a couple 2 x 8 boards. (this is for tandem axle rigs) Be sure to block the wheels on the other side as a safety precaution. Swap to the other wheel to work on it.
There is a good video on Youtube on wheel bearing work too. It is a messy but easy job.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:40 AM   #3
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Make you a little ramp out of 2x6`s,pull 1 wheel up on it,and the other wheel will come off the ground,if you have a hard time getting the wheel out of the wheel well,you need new axles.
Always replace the seals,with the double lip seals.Clean the old bearing with diesel,gas or kerosene. If you don`t have a bearing packer,place a gob of grease in on hand,with the big side of the bearing keep pressing the grease thru the bearing until new grease comes out the small side.Dave
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:35 PM   #4
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redhawkerII -

make your life as easy as possible - if you have a 2 axle AS just buy a set of 'lynx levellers'. i bought a set after doing a bit of research on ways to change a flat tire on an AS.

these are large orange plastic pieces that look like giant legos. they link together to form a stepped/pyramid shape.

you just put them in front or behind the tire you are NOT changing - then pull forward or back up onto them.

when the tire climbs them, the other tire/wheel raises high enough to change. remember to slightly loosen the lugs before raising the tire otherwise the wheel will spin.

its also a good idea to set your TV brake and put chocks around the off-side tires.

i used these 2 weeks ago to change a tire and they worked perfectly. a lot easier and safer than planks and they take up less than 1 sq.ft. of room.

note: there are yellow knock-offs available but your best bet is to buy the original.

good luck.

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Old 05-11-2010, 03:47 PM   #5
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Hi Redhawker, I just did my bearings and rotated tires today, I use a bottle jack and place it between the tires and jack up the frame and both wheels come off the ground, pull both wheels do the bearings get yourself a (bearing buddy) makes life a lot easier and saves a lot of time, I also use a couple cans of parts cleaner in a spray can to wash all the old grease out of the bearing. Hope this helps. And of course use a jack stand for safety and do this on level ground.

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Old 05-11-2010, 04:50 PM   #6
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If your axles are new or in good shape and have a good bit of suspension (movement) then the levelers or boards work great. If your axles are shot (very little suspension travel) getting the wheels out of the wheel well can be tough because they don't drop down any when raised. If that is the case, you may need to raise the axle you are working on a little higher off the ground to allow you to angle the tire when pulling it out of the wheel well. I didn't do a good job describing the issue, you will understand when you raise the trailer.
Good luck.

Also, use a good quality wheel bearing specific grease and like easyrider said use the good double lip grease seals.
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Old 05-20-2010, 02:37 PM   #7
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wheel bearing lube

how often would be prudent to repack wheel bearings on a new trailer...

thanks
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:33 PM   #8
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how often would be prudent to repack wheel bearings on a new trailer...

thanks
The recommended interval is annually. The best time would be in the Spring, when you dewinterize the trailer. You can make a day job out of it, dewinterizing, checking and inflating tires, repacking wheel bearings and checking brakes, restocking the first aid kit, and in general making sure everything on the trailer is ready to go camping.
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:34 PM   #9
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Generally, once a year, though I repack my bearings every two years.
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:38 PM   #10
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"A Shocking Brake story."

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Hi Redhawker, I just did my bearings and rotated tires today, I use a bottle jack and place it between the tires and jack up the frame and both wheels come off the ground, pull both wheels do the bearings get yourself a (bearing buddy) makes life a lot easier and saves a lot of time, I also use a couple cans of parts cleaner in a spray can to wash all the old grease out of the bearing. Hope this helps. And of course use a jack stand for safety and do this on level ground.

Marvin
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how often would be prudent to repack wheel bearings on a new trailer...

thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
The recommended interval is annually. The best time would be in the Spring, when you dewinterize the trailer. You can make a day job out of it, dewinterizing, checking and inflating tires, repacking wheel bearings and checking brakes, restocking the first aid kit, and in general making sure everything on the trailer is ready to go camping.
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Generally, once a year, though I repack my bearings every two years.

Hi, I had a dealer do my bearing pack and brake inspection when my trailer was two years old. Three years later, I decided to do it myself. Wheel bearings should be good for many years with out repacking. And if you use your transmission to help slow you down, and don't abuse your brakes, your brakes should also last a very long time. I am going to say [my opinion] that you should be safe doing this job, every two years.

I also use a bottle jack on the axle mounting brackets and four jack stands. I pull all of the wheels off.

Now, I will recommend that you read my latest blog, "A Shocking Brake story" [click on blog under my avatar] and see what kind of surprizes you could encounter doing this job.
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Old 05-21-2010, 04:26 AM   #11
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wheel bearings

trailer is on road full time now,,,no ned to winterize as we are heading down the blacktop..

so under constant travel conditions..what would be prudent....

thanks
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:45 AM   #12
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trailer is on road full time now,,,no ned to winterize as we are heading down the blacktop..

so under constant travel conditions..what would be prudent....

thanks
It would still be annually, unless you're towing from coast-to-coast every week for some reason. Then you would repack every 12,000 miles or so, and more to check the brakes than to keep the condensed moisture out of the grease like would occur if the trailer sat a lot. It also would give you a chance to rotate tires and check them for abnormal wear.
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:24 AM   #13
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. And if you use your transmission to help slow you down, and don't abuse your brakes, your brakes should also last a very long time.
i much rather do brake work than transmission work mut that might just be me.
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:34 PM   #14
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..

at this point every 12000 miles would be four months
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:25 PM   #15
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People with other types of trailers tell me there is a replacement for the outside seal that has a grease fitting built into it. They say they simply use a grease gun on the bearings every few thousand miles or months (if sitting) and never repack bearings anymore. Will this system not work for Airstreams? Some of the folks I know that do it have boat trailers. jc
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:56 PM   #16
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I have the wheel bearings serviced every 3rd season. Mostly cause I put less than 3-4k on the running gear every season. My trailer is now pushing 7 years old. Brakes, axles, bearings, all in great shape. Last repack I was told the bearings, spindles, brakes, etc all look to be in brand new condition. I also added centramatics a few years ago to help better balance the running gear. Not sure that it's any reason or major contribution as to why my running gear is in great shape, but I did notice less throw around inside the trailer during transit since having 'em installed.

I think running gear maint is important, but also, IMHO, you also need to take use into account. If you are not doing thousands of miles a year, I personally don't feel the added expense amounts to a lot of safety or preventative maint. I know other would disagree and some may argue that it sits more than it's moving, but I also have a 14 year old car I've had since new that sits all winter as well and has only 4800 miles on it and it's as new as it was the day it rolled off the assembly line.

Best you can do is take what everyone is saying and make the best decision you can for your specific needs...these work well for me, might not for you.
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Old 05-21-2010, 04:31 PM   #17
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People with other types of trailers tell me there is a replacement for the outside seal that has a grease fitting built into it. They say they simply use a grease gun on the bearings every few thousand miles or months (if sitting) and never repack bearings anymore. Will this system not work for Airstreams? Some of the folks I know that do it have boat trailers. jc
It works for boat trailers because they are pushing the water back out of the assembly. For travel trailers, or other trailers that have brakes, it is not such a good idea because the grease can leak past the inner seal onto the brake shoes.
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:38 PM   #18
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How Many New Trailers are equipped with Nev-R-Lube Bearings?

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how often would be prudent to repack wheel bearings on a new trailer...

thanks
Our 2006 model year 30' classic is equipped with Nev-R-Lube bearings. The Dexter Axle site implies that these are sealed bearings, and that one does not repack them. How many "new" trailers are equipped with this design?

F. A. Meloy
05/21/2010
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:43 PM   #19
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Our 2006 model year 30' classic is equipped with Nev-R-Lube bearings. The Dexter Axle site implies that these are sealed bearings, and that one does not repack them. How many "new" trailers are equipped with this design?

F. A. Meloy
05/21/2010

IIRC, the Dexter Nev-R-Lubes also will also eventually need some service. The literature says it will never need a lube, but the axles are only covered by 5 year/100k mile warranty. It's been suggested that after that time some maint may be required. I can't see seals not wearing out leading to a clean and repack being needed at some point...granted at a far extended interval than non- nev-r-lube axles....
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:16 PM   #20
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i much rather do brake work than transmission work but that might just be me.
Hi, it is recommended to down shift manually when going up or down hills. Transmissions with "Tow/Haul" modes do it automatically when the shifter [or button] is in the "Tow/Haul" position. It is also stated that you should use the same gear it took to get up the hill to go down the other side. [if for example it is a 6% grade up and 6% grade down]

Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyrivet View Post
People with other types of trailers tell me there is a replacement for the outside seal that has a grease fitting built into it. They say they simply use a grease gun on the bearings every few thousand miles or months (if sitting) and never repack bearings anymore. Will this system not work for Airstreams? Some of the folks I know that do it have boat trailers. jc
Hi, if you keep pumping grease into the bearing area, it will eventually fill up and push past the axle seal and onto your brakes. [drum or disk]

Quote:
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Our 2006 model year 30' classic is equipped with Nev-R-Lube bearings. The Dexter Axle site implies that these are sealed bearings, and that one does not repack them. How many "new" trailers are equipped with this design?

F. A. Meloy
05/21/2010
Hi, these are sealed bearings, so no seals or bearing repacking can be done on these, But this also allows people to go, maybe, too far before checking their brakes. Some late model cars use sealed wheel bearings and they work really well. They can, a do, still fail and will need to be replaced. Sealed bearing can become internally loose and allow the vehicle to slightly wander. They also start making noises and need to be replaced before they seize up.
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