Removing snap ring in hub

[Morgan guy]

I was getting ready for a trip and thought I should check my brake magnets. I have Nev-R-Lube bearings and did not suspect that I was going to have a problem with the removal. When I pulled the cap off of the hub, I found a large (about 3") snap ring holding things together. I tried my small 5" snap rings pliers but could not budge the snap ring. I went to the hardware store and bought 12" snap ring pliers. Still no luck. I could get one side out at a time but not both. The pliers kept slipping out of the snap ring holes. Does anyone have an idea of how to get them out so I can check my brakes? Appreciate your help.
Ron

[overlander63]

Remove the nut on the hub. The assembly will slide off then, the bearing is not supposed to come out of the hub/drum unless you are replacing it. I seem to remember seeing something about not re-using the nut, so look at it carefully before removing it.

[dznf0g]

If you can get one side out and not the other, I believe it to be a function of the quality of your pliers. Are the tips shaped like an hour glass, so the grip will remain on the tips with pressure applied?
If they are lesser quality, even inward pressure on both tips while squeezing the ring is a must. Any variation will allow one side to slip out.

[Morgan guy]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Remove the nut on the hub. The assembly will slide off then, the bearing is not supposed to come out of the hub/drum unless you are replacing it. I seem to remember seeing something about not re-using the nut, so look at it carefully before removing it.

The instructions with the Nev-R-Lube specify removing the snap ring first. The bearings are in a cartridge that is sealed and held in with the snap ring so I have to get if off first.

[Morgan guy]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

If you can get one side out and not the other, I believe it to be a function of the quality of your pliers. Are the tips shaped like an hour glass, so the grip will remain on the tips with pressure applied?
If they are lesser quality, even inward pressure on both tips while squeezing the ring is a must. Any variation will allow one side to slip out.

I guess I will have to search for better pliers. Thanks

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Morgan guy

The instructions with the Nev-R-Lube specify removing the snap ring first. The bearings are in a cartridge that is sealed and held in with the snap ring so I have to get if off first.

It looks like the documentation provided to the owners is better than that provided to the shops that have to work on it. You would think it would be the other way around.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Morgan guy

The instructions with the Nev-R-Lube specify removing the snap ring first. The bearings are in a cartridge that is sealed and held in with the snap ring so I have to get if off first.

Is that to remove the bearing or the drum? I have not been into one of these hubs specifically, but I think they are somewhat like cars, in that the bearing would come out with the drum (in this case) as Overlander suggested.

[Morgan guy]

I have not removed it before and the instructions don't specifically say but the drawing with them seems to imply that the bearings and cartridge stay in the drum unless you take it out with a press. The cartridge holds both inner and outer bearings. Since the inner and outer bearings are so close together, they say that you must use rims with no offset.

[dznf0g]

Does the snap ring retain the bearig to the drum or to the spindle? If it's the drum, try removing the spindle nut and see if the drum and the bearing come out together.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Morgan guy

I have not removed it before and the instructions don't specifically say but the drawing with them seems to imply that the bearings and cartridge stay in the drum unless you take it out with a press. The cartridge holds both inner and outer bearings. Since the inner and outer bearings are so close together, they say that you must use rims with no offset.

If you can wait until Tuesday, it would probably be a good idea to contact Dexter directly before proceeding. It looks like the documentation you were provided differs significantly from what I was provided.

[dznf0g]

How about some pictures?

[Morgan guy]

That will have to wait. I have run out of time and am now loading everything for my trip. The brake magnets probably have not worn down that much as there are not that many miles on my trailer yet. I was just being ultra cautious.

[dznf0g]

Well, have fun! I have discs now, but my old SOB went 50 - 70,000 (guesstimate) before the brakes needed shoes and magnets.

[Morgan guy]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Well, have fun! I have discs now, but my old SOB went 50 - 70,000 (guesstimate) before the brakes needed shoes and magnets.

Did yours come with discs or did you convert? Mine apparently came with discs but apparently the PO changed to drums. Do you prefer the discs? Is there a lag time when you apply the brakes?

[dznf0g]

I do really like discs. There is a very small lag time now. I did have some air in the lines. After bleeding the brakes and moving to a Direclink controller, I couldn't be happier with trailer brakes. they are (almost) as smooth and predictable as auto brakes. I still have the original Actibrake actuator. Mine was not subject to the recall and, so far has performed flawlessly.

When its day comes, and I expect it, I will look into the Direclink actuator....mayby with ABS.