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Old 05-06-2009, 09:41 AM   #71
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680370-100 Seal Cross Reference

Did anyone find the aftermarket cross reference part number for Airstream's 680370-100 seal? This fits 12 inch brakes on a 2007 27FB.

Thanks!
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:47 AM   #72
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Did anyone find the aftermarket cross reference part number for Airstream's 680370-100 seal? This fits 12 inch brakes on a 2007 27FB.

Thanks!
I don't have the cross reference for aftermarkets, but I ordered my seals from Out-of-Doors Mart. They were the Airstream units you have listed and were $6.95 each plus shipping. I ordered two sets so I have them for next year, too.

I just got around to having them installed last week. The cost for re-packing the bearings was $68.95/axle plus $50.00 to adjust the brakes (they needed it bad!). I have the Dexter 12 inch hubs.
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:25 PM   #73
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I don't have the cross reference for aftermarkets, but I ordered my seals from Out-of-Doors Mart. They were the Airstream units you have listed and were $6.95 each plus shipping. I ordered two sets so I have them for next year, too.

I just got around to having them installed last week. The cost for re-packing the bearings was $68.95/axle plus $50.00 to adjust the brakes (they needed it bad!). I have the Dexter 12 inch hubs.
That grease seal, does not come from Airstream, (note the packaging), and is far removed from the grease seal that Airstream has.

The correct seal has a blue ring around the edge, has a double flare, has a spring in it, has metal on both sides, and weighs 2.4 ounces.(Good)

The $6.95 seal id for short term use, does not come from Airstream, and only weigh 1.3 ounces. (Fair)

A word to the wise.

You get what you pay for.

Unfortunately, posting a comparison photo is almost impossible.

Don't use low quality grease seals. That leads to bearing failures, which leads to axle replacements, and that costs big bucks as well as a considerable setback when it happens in the middle of your trip. Add to that the extra cost of meals and/or motels.

Andy
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:35 PM   #74
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...They were the Airstream units you have listed and were $6.95 each plus shipping...
quick update for those who follow this thread or may need bearing REpacks soon.

it's been 30,000+ miles (close to 35k) and 2 1/2 years since my last note IN this thread.

just had the triple axel REpacked last week at the mothership.

the factory service center OFFICIAL grease seal for the henschens axles on my unit were...

$42.66

that's for 3 axles/6 hubs so the price for SEALS was $7.11 each.

this is basically the SAME PRICE m'mate paid for his from ODM.
__________

total cost for the service was $360 which includes tax, shop supplies, parts and labor.

i consider this a good value given the time, space and effort for diy on a 34 footer.

and only about 30$ more than 2 years ago.

at 35k miles the grease was still very very red and slickity.

cheers
2air'
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:55 PM   #75
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2air, did you tell them it was 30,000 miles and not the 10,000 miles or 6 months they recommend? If so, how did they react?

Ours were repacked at JC last Fall because of other issues that had to be taken care of and I was relieved I didn't have to do it.

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Old 06-11-2010, 01:00 PM   #76
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And it is true, the majority of wheel bearing failures is due to the last service on those bearings. That is another reason the car manufactures went to sealed wheel bearings. And who says they built cars for planned obselence.
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I know I'm responding to an old post, but...

The answer to the question is Alfred P. Sloan.

hehehe
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:32 PM   #77
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Yes it is an old post. And so is Al. (he is an old ... post)

And still true.

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Old 06-11-2010, 04:07 PM   #78
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2air, did you tell them it was 30,000 miles and not the 10,000 miles or 6 months they recommend? If so, how did they react?...
hi gene

indeed the time/mileage interval was mentioned,

several times.

i personally inspected the internals...

the spindles and bearing packs looked as new,

the excess grease in the hub caps was darker maroon,

but AT the bearings and on the spindles the grease was red as new.

the mechanic noted they looked great and wondered WHY i was having them done...

the time/mileage answer came up then again.

since the unit has disc brakes there was no labor charge for "inspecting" the drums brake bits...

3 hours TOTAL labor charge, plus seals, cotter pins and misc shop supplies.
__________

so at 5 years of ownership this is the 3RD time they've been repacked.

~75-77,000 miles total use for an average of 25,000 mile interval.

cheers
2air'
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Old 06-13-2010, 02:59 PM   #79
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Good deal. My impression is the brakes with drums are more important to inspect than the bearings. At least that's what I'm telling myself since it'll be about 15,000 miles since repacking by the time I get home in late July. Then I'll install self adjusting brakes on the axle that doesn't have them when I do the repacking.

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Old 06-13-2010, 03:36 PM   #80
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I just did my '05 after 3-4 years and maybe 7K miles. 3 hubs with beautiful red grease and perfect bearings. One hub with a burned out inner bearing and 1/2 inch of freeplay at outer circumference of tire. It was very evident when I first removed the cap which bearing was bad. 3 had red grease, one had black burned grease.

I'm not inclined to do more frequent service based on what I saw as long as brakes are functioning properly.

I have checked hub temps when traveling and I'm not convinced it is much of an early warning system. The bad bearing was running cool in my checks, at least up to the last 500 miles where I may have not checked the hubs.

Since the Airstream is so easy to jack with a bottle jack I'm going to lift it and check the freeplay in the wheels as a frequent check. I should be able to do both sides in little over 5 minutes.

One thing I don't see mentioned is those heavy duty grease seals are a bugger to get out. Does anyone use a puller tool with them? I pulled them apart with vice grips and dug them out with screwdriver. Do not attempt to drive them out with the bearing, you'll wreck the bearing. Ask me how I know
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Old 06-13-2010, 03:55 PM   #81
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Does anyone use a puller tool with them? I pulled them apart with vice grips and dug them out with screwdriver. Do not attempt to drive them out with the bearing, you'll wreck the bearing. Ask me how I know
Use a socket on the end of an extension. I use a 3/4" socket (or so) and install it on a 9" 3/8 drive extension. The socket is inverted on the extnsion. Then I tap on the other end of the sxtension to drive out the seal. The other method I have used is a very long punch into the seal. However some one has decided that particular punch was something they needed more than me.

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Old 06-13-2010, 04:01 PM   #82
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So you pass the socket thru the bearing and apply the force directly to the seal? Thanks for the tip..
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Old 06-13-2010, 07:16 PM   #83
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Yes, with the hub off the vehicle and the outer bearing removed, use a socket that is smaller than the inside of the innner bearing. Drop the socket on a long extension (like 9") through the hub from the outer side. MAKE SURE it lands on the seal. To do this you may have to push the bearing up into the hub. Tap lightly on the other end of the extension. Recommend using 3/8 drive socket and extension.

It can also be done with the extension only which will always damage the seal. I have used the socket when I was out in the boonies and had to save the seal because I did not have a spare.

Just be careful not to tap on the innner bearing cage. It isn't that strong.

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Old 06-13-2010, 08:35 PM   #84
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Just be careful not to tap on the innner bearing cage. It isn't that strong.
Yes I found this out the hard way, and at least my seals were very tough to punch out.

Appreciate your help. Should make this much easier in the future.
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