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Old 03-16-2009, 09:28 PM   #57
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Called Factory today they said what Andy said they wouldn't sell direct. Referred me to an Airstream dealer 500 miles away to order part. I live close to Louisiville , KY and 100 miles from Cincinnati, OH, 100 miles from Indianapolis, IN , 200 miles from the factory and I must order from 500 miles away due to so many dealers not stocking and going out of business. I found a dealer that it is no longer an Airstream dealer 129 miles away that had 4 seals on the shelf. I went and got them today. You buy a $60K Classic and the support on such a basic item is not there. You can make your own decison on whether this is the way to support such a product. I myself would have bent over backwards to supply the customer to keep his product rolling. Next time I will order a head of time from someone like Andy. But as the customer I shouldn't have to be so proactive because of such policies. I feel better now.
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:43 PM   #58
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Old 03-17-2009, 01:01 AM   #59
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Called Factory today they said what Andy said they wouldn't sell direct. Referred me to an Airstream dealer 500 miles away to order part. I live close to Louisiville , KY and 100 miles from Cincinnati, OH, 100 miles from Indianapolis, IN , 200 miles from the factory and I must order from 500 miles away due to so many dealers not stocking and going out of business. I found a dealer that it is no longer an Airstream dealer 129 miles away that had 4 seals on the shelf. I went and got them today. You buy a $60K Classic and the support on such a basic item is not there. You can make your own decison on whether this is the way to support such a product. I myself would have bent over backwards to supply the customer to keep his product rolling. Next time I will order a head of time from someone like Andy. But as the customer I shouldn't have to be so proactive because of such policies. I feel better now.

Airstream requires their dealers to make a huge investment in parts.

They feel in order to be supportive of the dealers that make that investment, that they would not participate in any parts sales, unless the customer was at the factory.

Many dealers that sell multiple brands of trailers, may not abide by Airstreams requirements.

Parts are easily shipped from a few parts stocking dealers, on a daily basis, therefore there is little need to travel at all to get those parts, especially at today's gas prices.

Even at a cost of fifty cents per mile cost of operating a car, commercial shipping suddenly becomes real cheap.

Andy
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:02 AM   #60
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Andy I will respectfully disagree with your statement. From what you said I should be able to pick up the phone and call any dealer and order the parts. That was not the case. I would have gladly done that. But what I found was "no we use after market parts" or "we no longer are an Airstream dealer". Contrary to what some people think some of us are not cheap we just want good parts that were on the unit when they were made. When the dealer network breaks down which may be a result of the financial times its necessary to abandon such proprietary policies on such regularly needed maintenance items. To send a good customer like myself on such a Easter Egg hunt is not right. My choice to go retrieve the parts came out of frustration with such a bad proprietary approach and a parts system that is weak at best. You may be one of the good guys but you are five days shipping away from my home and that is not acceptable. You had my support right up until your criticism in the last post. My view from this side of the fence is all the matters unfortunately for you and the dealer network I am not alone in this opinion. I never thought I would take time to post a response like this but I guess I have finally reach old fart status and as all of us know an old fart is never wrong just like the customer is never wrong.
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:19 AM   #61
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Andy I will respectfully disagree with your statement. From what you said I should be able to pick up the phone and call any dealer and order the parts. That was not the case. I would have gladly done that. But what I found was "no we use after market parts" or "we no longer are an Airstream dealer". Contrary to what some people think some of us are not cheap we just want good parts that were on the unit when they were made. When the dealer network breaks down which may be a result of the financial times its necessary to abandon such proprietary policies on such regularly needed maintenance items. To send a good customer like myself on such a Easter Egg hunt is not right. My choice to go retrieve the parts came out of frustration with such a bad proprietary approach and a parts system that is weak at best. You may be one of the good guys but you are five days shipping away from my home and that is not acceptable. You had my support right up until your criticism in the last post. My view from this side of the fence is all the matters unfortunately for you and the dealer network I am not alone in this opinion. I never thought I would take time to post a response like this but I guess I have finally reach old fart status and as all of us know an old fart is never wrong just like the customer is never wrong.
I outlined what Airstreams policy is, regarding parts.

If dealers do not follow that policy, that certainly is their choice. That has nothing to do with us.

Our choice is to follow that policy, which is why we carry over 3300 different Airstream parts in stock.

We carry the grease seal that your Airstream uses. Usually, at least several dozen. Most owners prefer the original part, but some insist on an after market cheapo. Again, that's a customers choice.

Shipping a small package via USPS would be maybe 3 days, not 5. Grease seals are a PM item. But, for whatever reason you needed them quickly, next day service is also available, which is still cheaper than driving 100 miles or so.

I am resposible for Inland RV Center, and not what other dealers may chose to do.

Since you have the trailer, it might be wise to order a duplicate set of seals now, so that you have them on hand, for the next repack.

Emergency's do happen that require next day shipment of parts. An owner must understand, that the freight companies set the rates, not a small business like us.

Sorry your disappointed at us, but we carry well into the 6 figures of specific Airstream parts, yet on occassion, we run out, when a vender back orders, as Airstream does once in a while.

If all the dealers you contacted did not have anything but an after market seal for you, then we would suggest that you keep them in mind, the next time you need parts, so that you don't waste their time, or yours.

Typical shipment, as an example of early 70 windows, takes 3 weeks, usually.

Not much we or any other dealer can do about things like that, except live with it, or quit the program. That doesn't make the customer happy, but what is an alternative? We stock many different windows for the 70's, with some limitations. Stocking a part of any kind, that sells one or two a year, is inconvenient for a customer, but is financially a bad business practice as well.

Dealers cannot dictate to Airstream.

Andy
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:49 AM   #62
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greasing wheel bearings

Most of your newer cars have sealed wheel bearings and when they go bad or have a problem it's a non serviceable item so u just replace them.

Know if a car has serviceable wheel bearings most people ether run them until they go bad and complain when they have to have them replaced or they don't service them at all.

i was able to find wheel seals at the local O'reillys, and a local trailer sales company.
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:53 PM   #63
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We do what is called a "major brake."

We jack up the trailer and remove all 4 tires and wheels.

We inspect the tires for any problems.

We check the tires for proper inflation and correct the pressure if necessary.

We inspect the shocks for leaks and/or old age. (More than 10 years)

We remove the bearings and clean them in a solvent.

We inspect the bearings for any problems.

We pressure pack the bearings.

We degrease the hubs.

At this point we balance the running gear if requested.

We clean all the dust and dirt from the brake system.

We test the breakaway switch and the magnets.

We replace the brake shoes and/or magnets if necessary. (Electric brakes)

We replace the adjuster springs if they are more than 10 years old. (Electric brakes)

We deglaze the brake shoes and magnets. (Electric brakes)

We deglaze the hub and drum. (Electric brakes)

We check the fluid level in the master cylinder. (Disc brakes)

We test the breakaway switch. (Disc brakes)

We replace the rotors and/or pads if necessary. (Disc brakes)

We deglaze the pads. (Disc brakes)

We deglaze the rotors. (Disc brakes)

We add some grease to the hubs or rotors.

We reinstall the bearings.

We replace the grease seals.

We reassemble the running gear.

We adjust the brakes. (Electric brakes)

We remove the trailer from the jack stands.

Labor charge is 2.5 hours for the major brake, for a tandem axle.

Labor charge for the shock replacement is .3 hours each.

Labor charge for the running gear balance depends on the wheels, steel or aluminum.

Andy


Andy

What would you add to this list for an eight wheel classic motorhome? I've only clocked 2,000 miles in just over a year, is it time yet?
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Old 03-18-2009, 10:00 PM   #64
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Andy

What would you add to this list for an eight wheel classic motorhome? I've only clocked 2,000 miles in just over a year, is it time yet?
Sorry, but we do not do a "major brake" on any motorized vehicles.

That's an entirely different program in California.

The tag axle, however has standard travel trailer electric brakes.


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Old 03-19-2009, 11:56 AM   #65
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On an older thread it was mentioned that some grease will liquefy at high temperatures and run out the seals and that a premium grease should be used. There was no indication as to what was a bad grease and what was a good grease.

I'm not mechanically inclined so if I ask my service tech what type grease he uses and he says, "we use ____." I won't know if it is the type that will bleed out or not. What type of grease should be avoided and what type should be requested?
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Old 03-19-2009, 12:26 PM   #66
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I bought one called "Marine Corrosion Control and Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease". It was a LubriMatic product. I use it on the ball for lubrication. I think this stuff is pretty much standard no matter who makes it. It's like motor oil, so long as it conforms to contemporary standards, it's all the same. This one says: "dropping point" is 550˚. For the definition, see: Dropping point - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Basically, that's when it liquifies. So, don't drive through molten lava. I wonder why it isn't called "dripping point" or even better, "drooling point"?

When using whatever you get, remember to clean out all the old grease as different products may not mix well.

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Old 03-19-2009, 01:16 PM   #67
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On an older thread it was mentioned that some grease will liquefy at high temperatures and run out the seals and that a premium grease should be used. There was no indication as to what was a bad grease and what was a good grease.

I'm not mechanically inclined so if I ask my service tech what type grease he uses and he says, "we use ____." I won't know if it is the type that will bleed out or not. What type of grease should be avoided and what type should be requested?
It has been reported by Airstream and Henschen that the "right wrong" grease mix, can actually be corrosive.

Therefore the bearings and the hubs, should be TOTALLY free of any grease, before a new grease is used.

Andy
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Old 03-19-2009, 06:24 PM   #68
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On an older thread it was mentioned that some grease will liquefy at high temperatures and run out the seals and that a premium grease should be used. There was no indication as to what was a bad grease and what was a good grease.

I'm not mechanically inclined so if I ask my service tech what type grease he uses and he says, "we use ____." I won't know if it is the type that will bleed out or not. What type of grease should be avoided and what type should be requested?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
It has been reported by Airstream and Henschen that the "right wrong" grease mix, can actually be corrosive.

Therefore the bearings and the hubs, should be TOTALLY free of any grease, before a new grease is used.

Andy
So, again, what type of grease should be used, and what grease should not be used?
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Old 03-20-2009, 04:11 AM   #69
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Buy a good name brand of grease. Such as, Quaker State, Castrol, or any of the major oil companies.

Stay away from cheap no name or house brands. I am not saying specifically that other brands of grease are no good just that you should stick with brands that you know are of good quality.

The grease can come in a tube or a tub as long as it is labeled for wheel bearings.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:43 AM   #70
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I received a PM from one of the posters on this thread that has watched the factory at JC repack his bearings more than once and inquired with them what they were using and he said make sure it is either synthetic or "red" axle grease. This type is supposed to be moisture resistant. Note: nothing would be water proof, but some grades are more resistant to moisture than others.
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