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Old 04-16-2013, 12:11 PM   #29
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The same thing happened to me. I bought a 2010 25FB International from an AS dealer and noticed that one wheel hub was running hot. I took it to the dealer for a bearing repack. They said they did the job and charged me.
I still noticed the same wheel hub was running hot so I took my AS to a local shop that specializes in hitches and trailers.
They told me the bearings were Never Lub and my problem was a brake dragging
They fixed it and charged me less than the dealer had who "serviced" my bearings.

By the way, that AS dealer is no longer an AS dealer. I wonder why.
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:09 PM   #30
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I want to put these bearings in my 2004 international 28'. I think I have 7000 lb axles. What size do I need?
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:47 PM   #31
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I want to put these bearings in my 2004 international 28'. I think I have 7000 lb axles. What size do I need?
You cannot replace just the bearings.

You must replace the complete hub and drum that include the bearings.

We don't believe in them, therefore we have never sdold any.

But, be prepared as they cost over $ 300.00 each, plus shipping.

Unfortunately, the down side is that they distract you from thinking about the brakes, which certainly do not last 100,000 miles.

Since you have to remove the hub and drums to service the brakes every
ten thousand miles, why not repack the bearings as well, at the same time??

Also keep in mind that no one keeps any parts for the Nev-r-lube, so if you have a breakdown, you will have to order the parts.

On paper, I think they are great. In service, I think they should be passed by.

Andy
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:11 PM   #32
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I want to put these bearings in my 2004 international 28'. I think I have 7000 lb axles. What size do I need?
You can't just install these bearings in a trailer that did not come with them. The hubs and spindles are different.
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:24 PM   #33
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:32 PM   #34
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Not doing that is more simple!
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:04 PM   #35
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After two unpleasant experiences with different dealers whom I had paid to repack bearings and did not, I am quite happy to do them myself!

At least I know the work is done, and it gives me a little more confidence that I really do know the condition of my bearings and brakes.

It is indeed a messy job, but with nitrile gloves and lots of absorbent cloth is not so bad.

At the risk of being called a fool I will admit to a little cheating! I do pull the wheels every year to inspect and repack, but I only replace the seals every second year.

This means that I do not pull the inner bearing on the other years. I do however feel in through the bearing to make sure if feels smooth as I rotate it, and I also pack some grease into the back bearing. I use a grease gun from the front, then work the grease into the inner roller cage by reaching in through the seal with my fingers.

I wash the outer bearing, inspect, and repack. As mentioned, every second year I do a full job on both.

It doesn't take very long to do all this now that I have done it many times, maybe 3 or 4 hours. The task is made faster by use of Lynx levellers to raise the wheels and an air wrench to speed removal.

In fact I just pulled all the wheels a couple of weeks ago since I had been obliged to tow the trailer through a long section of flooded road and wanted to ensure it had not set me up for an imminent bearing problem. All was fine.


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Old 04-17-2013, 05:58 AM   #36
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Not doing that is more simple!
WADR.....never say never.

How much was that hub on an AWD Astrovan?

I will feel more comfortable with them after they've had some time on the road.

"At least I know the work is done, and it gives me a little more confidence that I really do know the condition of my bearings and brakes."

^
X2

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Old 04-17-2013, 08:13 AM   #37
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There's an old mechanics trick to remove the inner bearing and seal without doing any damage. So long as everything is in good condition and comes out without falling apart you can re-install as usual. If they are old and fall apart it means that they have not been serviced in a long, long time. After removing the drum and outer bearing you put the castle nut back on a few turns. Slip the drum over the nut and using the nut as an anvil you can pull outward catching the inner bearing on the nut. It will take a good snap pull but the bearing will force the seal out doing no damage to it. Now, if it does damage it there were other things at work here and so it goes. Replacement is the only option but I've never had it not work out and I've done it many times. Even when I do replace the seals this is how I remove the old one to save for emergencies.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:47 AM   #38
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There's an old mechanics trick

Roger,

Good tip, thanks, I will give that a try! In the past, I either use a wooden dowel to tap the inner bearing and seal from the inside, or just use a screwdriver and hammer from the outside and destroy the thin metal housing of the seal so that it easily comes out.

On a Whenever I had to replace outer bearing races (haven't needed to do that yet on the AS) I take the old race, roughly grind all around the O.D with an angle grinder so it is a loose fit in the bore, then use it to help the new race in evenly. I generally put the new race in the freezer the day before as well and that seems to make it easier.

I suppose it would be better to use a softer brass driver of the right size - but I don't have such animals!

Brian.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:10 AM   #39
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On a Whenever I had to replace outer bearing races (haven't needed to do that yet on the AS) I take the old race, roughly grind all around the O.D with an angle grinder so it is a loose fit in the bore, then use it to help the new race in evenly. I generally put the new race in the freezer the day before as well and that seems to make it easier.

I suppose it would be better to use a softer brass driver of the right size - but I don't have such animals!

Brian.
Brian,

I do a similar thing with the old race. I cut a slot all the way thru one side with a power saw, and use it for a driver for the new race. The slot of course allows the old race to compress easily, and go into and out of the bore easily.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:36 AM   #40
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Brian,

I do a similar thing with the old race. I cut a slot all the way thru one side with a power saw, and use it for a driver for the new race. The slot of course allows the old race to compress easily, and go into and out of the bore easily.
Good idea!

Sometimes, if I have time to spare, I take the old race that I have roughly ground on the OD so as to be undersized, I will then weld a flat bar across one side so that I can tap on the centre rather than going around the edge so as to do the best job I can of driving the new race in square all the way.

One thing that surprises me when buying Airstream bearings is that you buy the roller assembly and cage separately from the outer race.

I don't have a lot of experience buying bearings, but if I recall, bearings I have bought for other applications - such as the small luggage trailer I built to pull behind our motorcycle, they come in a set with rollers/cage/inner race, and the outer race also included. (Otherwise termed the bearing "cup" and "cone" I think.

I always thought this was because the components were a matched set machined & ground to very close tolerances, and that it was always best - if not 100% essential - to also change the outer race when you changed the roller assembly.

If that is so, i wonder why they would even be sold separately? Any idea?

Brian.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:54 AM   #41
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I.

I always thought this was because the components were a matched set machined & ground to very close tolerances, and that it was always best - if not 100% essential - to also change the outer race when you changed the roller assembly.

If that is so, i wonder why they would even be sold separately? Any idea?

Brian.

Brian,

I can't answer that question, but I do like you, if I replace one, I replace both. IMHO it's just too cheap and too much risk to take the chance to do otherwise.

I have noticed if you buy bearings at Northern Tool, for instance, they come in sets like you say, and usually the inners and outers as well, but I've not bought bearings for the Airstream, or any other trailer of that weight capacity there. It seems also almost impossible to buy American made bearings now days.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:14 AM   #42
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Question Diffusing the FUDmongers

Rather than reply to the PMs I've gotten on this subject, I'll cover most of the questions here in this thread, since this thread seems to be the one referenced in the messages.

Do you know how many trailers have come in to our shop with damaged hubs and spindles (or worse) from improperly seviced wheel bearings? At least a dozen a year. "Improperly serviced" means too much or too little grease, not installing the seals correctly, overtightening the bearings, not cleaning the bearings properly, and even damage from dropping them.

Do you know how many trailers have come in to our shop in the last several years for failed Nev R Lube bearings? 0.

Etrailer sells Nev R Lube bearings for $148, less than half what some people trying to frighten you away from them say they cost.

There is no dismantling and installing new seals on a Nev R Lube bearing. if a technician tries removing the seal, he will ruin the bearing. Anyone that tries to tell you a Nev R Lube bearing assembly should be dismantled and inspected obviously has no experience with them.
Y'all can do what you want, but there are millions of cars and trucks running up and down the highways of the world with sealed bearings, and the number of failures, especially failures that cause further mechanical problems, is astronomically small.
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