Opinion on our wheel hub.

[AnnieStrange]

Attached should be a picture of one of the hubs on our 17-25' FC. We wanted to ask the forum what this might be. It looks like grease leaking out. The other three do not look like this. We want to be informed before we get it serviced.

[woodfox45]

Why don't you pull the wheel and look maybe you dust cap has come loose .

[Isuzusweet]

Originally Posted by woodfox45

Why don't you pull the wheel and look maybe you dust cap has come loose .

+1, loosen lug nuts, drive trailer up onto a 2x4 under other wheel, which will raise the wheel you want to take off. Set parking brake on TV and chock wheels if you're uncomfortable; take off wheel and inspect seals and dust cap. Doing this service is important; it's not hard and doesn't require a service department.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

[uncle_bob]

Hi

It *might* be normal road crud splashed up and washed off in an unusual way. It might be a hub bearing starting to leak and wipe out the brakes. There is no way to tell from just looking at the outside. As others have noted, if it bothers you, pull the wheel ( or have somebody pull it) and see what's going on. The hub bearings *are* known to fail from time to time.

After the wheel is back on again, you will need to tighten the lug nuts at 25 and 100 miles down the road. There actually is an official Airstream sticker they can put on your door that says this. It's got crazy super stick glue on it so I'd avoid the sticker part. Checking the lugs will require:

1) A torque wrench that will hit the correct torque numbers (consult your manual ...)

2) A deep well socket that will fit your lug nuts (maybe 3/4" maybe something else). It also needs to be "thin wall" to make it all the way into the lug nut. Crazy expensive for a socket ...

3) An extension for the torque wrench ( goes between the wrench and the socket) so you don't bash your knuckles on the tire as you do the task.

Don't go to crazy about the 25 and 100 mile numbers. The objective is to pull over someplace *safe* and live through the experience. A rest area at 90 or 110 miles is *way* better than on the side of the interstate at exactly 100 miles.

Bob

[JohnTF]

If your on the road , or towing for at least a 10-20 miles , pull over and feel each wheel - to see if there all about the same temp / looking to see if that one is hotter that the others - thats an indicator of issues .
Then jack up all wheels one at time , is ok , grab the tire and push with one hand & pull with the other and alternate - what your doing is checking to see if any of the wheels are too loose .
If you can move the wheel / wheels more than about an 1/8th " you may need to tighten . Then while keeping tension on wheel , spin the wheel while feeling for a roughness - indicating that bearings are wearing / pitting , that would be also making the wheel heat up while towing .

[majorairhead]

I just took all 4 wheels off our '19 International to have metal valve stems installed. That big center cap just slides through there from the back side when you put the wheel back on. It's probably just road grime working it's way in there.

I ran one axle up on risers,9by putting 2x's under both wheels) about 4.5 inches total, and found that wasn't enough to raise the other axle off the garage floor, UNTIL I either lowered, or raised the front jack, depending on the axle I was working on. I used an impact wrench to take off the lug nuts, but used a torque wrench to put 'em back on by hand, torqued to 110 foot pounds, and in the manner described in the manual.

I also was seriously attentive to chocking both wheels on the trailer while removing the other two wheels.

[wimpy]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

1) A torque wrench that will hit the correct torque numbers (consult your manual ...)
2) A deep well socket that will fit your lug nuts (maybe 3/4" maybe something else). It also needs to be "thin wall" to make it all the way into the lug nut. Crazy expensive for a socket ...
3) An extension for the torque wrench ( goes between the wrench and the socket) so you don't bash your knuckles on the tire as you do the task.

Harbor Freight will have these tools which you can stow for future use. I'd suggest adding a can of P-B Blaster, a 1/2" 18" breaker bar & a 3-4' piece of PVC pipe (that would fit over the breaker bar) to assist in removal of stubborn lug nuts.

[JohnTF]

Originally Posted by wimpy

Harbor Freight will have these tools which you can stow for future use. I'd suggest adding a can of P-B Blaster, a 1/2" 18" breaker bar & a 3-4' piece of PVC pipe (that would fit over the breaker bar) to assist in removal of stubborn lug nuts.

Dangerous !!!
DO NOT USE " PVC " , it does not have the strength to use a a cheater pipe - it will break & could cut your hands .

[heslinhotel]

Does the discoloration wipe off? if not it is likely NOT grease from bearing dust cap.
It appears to me it might be anodized finish on wheel. What kind of finish is on the wheel?

[wimpy]

Originally Posted by JohnTF

Dangerous !!!
DO NOT USE " PVC " , it does not have the strength to use a a cheater pipe - it will break & could cut your hands .

In a bind, tried using a metal vacuum extension piece, it split. Since then, I've been using the same 1½" PVC (which slips over my 18" breaker bar to extend my leverage) for at least 5 years. Wall thickness is .145", less than 24" not supported by the breaker bar.

[Action]

A metal plumbing pipe would be a better choice as a recommendation. Even though your plastic pipe works. Plastic may not be the best choice for everyone.

And a small chunk of used plumbing pipe should be cheap and easy to find. I have some old steel plumbing pipe I have had for years.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by AnnieStrange

Attached should be a picture of one of the hubs on our 17-25' FC. We wanted to ask the forum what this might be. It looks like grease leaking out. The other three do not look like this. We want to be informed before we get it serviced.Attachment 321683

You should have sealed bearings...remove wheel and check it

[AirMiles]

I pulled and inspected all my wheels/hubs this summer. Two of my wheels had the same grease marks as your picture. There was a small amount of grease coming out of all four of my wheel bearings that may have caused this blackness on two of my rims. I've read that a small amount of grease leakage is not unusual in sealed bearings. My bearings all run cool even after a full fuel run based on my infrared thermometer readings of the hub - up to about 20 degrees above ambient temperature.

I did have a brake failure on one of my wheels which prompted the four wheel inspection. The brake failure was caused by the brake adjustment bolt and spring falling off into the hub. The tell-tale sign of this brake problem is a loud screeching sound and extremely hot brake hub. After replacing the brake assembly, I have driven thousands of miles without further issues and no further blackness on my rims.

I check my hub temperatures frequently when traveling (every fuel stop) with an infrared thermometer or by feel. By feel, I first put my hand close to the center cap of the rim before actually touching it. If the center cap it too hot to touch, you may have a problem.

[TG Twinkie]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

I pulled and inspected all my wheels/hubs this summer. Two of my wheels had the same grease marks as your picture. There was a small amount of grease coming out of all four of my wheel bearings that may have caused this blackness on two of my rims. I've read that a small amount of grease leakage is not unusual in sealed bearings. My bearings all run cool even after a full fuel run based on my infrared thermometer readings of the hub - up to about 20 degrees above ambient temperature.

I did have a brake failure on one of my wheels which prompted the four wheel inspection. The brake failure was caused by the brake adjustment bolt and spring falling off into the hub. The tell-tale sign of this brake problem is a loud screeching sound and extremely hot brake hub. After replacing the brake assembly, I have driven thousands of miles without further issues and no further blackness on my rims.

I check my hub temperatures frequently when traveling (every fuel stop) with an infrared thermometer or by feel. By feel, I first put my hand close to the center cap of the rim before actually touching it. If the center cap it too hot to touch, you may have a problem.

Just sloppy mechanic who greased the easy lube per instructions then failed to clean up after.

[Ray Eklund]

Annie... I have had to pull my wheels, brake drum, self adjusting brake assemblies for brake work and can now do it blindfolded. I list the tools needed to do this in Brakes on the Forum under Running Gear.

You have to remove the tire first. Heslinhotel in Post #9 is more likely correct. This is aluminum and once you have the wheel off, you will know the source of this. Could have been oil from the road being sealed and you took it a bit too fast. This aluminum cap may slide out as soon as you pull the wheel. Clean it and reinsert it. Nothing to this part.

The Cap on the Brake Drum needs a chisel and hammer to get it off. I see no way grease could leak from that onto your center cap of the wheel.

If there is grease at the outside bottom edge of your brake drum... then removing the center drum cap and pull the drum and bearing assembly off. It is not pleasant, the torque needs a cheater bar to remove the nut, and you have a snap ring that has to be removed before doing all of this.

There is a plastic ring that tells you the torque needed to tighten this nut.

It is not difficult, but a dirty mess, no matter grease or brake/drum dust from use.

Do as heslinhotel said and you can rest easier if it is just some cleanup.

The bearings... after the nut is removed there is a thick spacer to pull out. It will have a little bit of black wheel bearing grease on it. All of mine had a little grease on them, as well. The drum and bearings will slide off with some wiggling... effort. You can take a towel inserted into the center of the bearings, with fingers, and try to rotate the bearings. If they appear solid and not sloppy or metal fragments showing... you have to get it all back together.

[TG Twinkie]

Never had to chisel a cap off the end of the spindle on the easy lube hubs. There is a rubber plug which must be removed to gain access to the grease zert.
Dexter instructions say to use a hand grease gun and pump grease in until it starts coming out near the zert. Do not use a powered grease gun.
If the rubber plug is missing or there was enough pressure from too much grease and not being cleaned up. This may be the source.
If you have standard hubs which require hand packing the above does not apply.

[Ray Eklund]

These are the hard to get into Never Lube Bearing assemblies. AKA Nev-R-Lube Bearings.

Dexter says to 'carefully pry progressively around the flange'. Anyone who does that will still be working on it for a few days. Rotate the drum and slowly work off the cap. A screw driver and hammer may work if you find one that will work.

This cap is not like the earlier ones that could be worked off with a screw driver.

[AnnieStrange]

Thanks all for the input, it's in storage now but when it comes out soon I'll likely see if it runs warmer and pull the wheel and see shat I get.

[cwf]

Annie.. you should know how to do this... chance favors the prepared...

YouTubes are awesome.

Getting up close with the running gear on your AS is important.. Removing wheels is a simple but crucial skill to master.

You need the correct 'socket' to fit the Lug Nut... see how they are inside the wheel.. you may need an 'impact wrench' type of socket. they have a 'thin' wall and fit inside nicely. You need a 'breaker bar' long enough for you to break loose the lug nuts... they tend to 'stick' to aluminum.. you will then need a 'torque wrench' to properly reinstall and 'torque' the lug nuts to specifications.

Or, call AAA (if you have CELL coverage) and wait... just be prepared with enough adult beverage to last until the mechanic arrives.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by cwf

Annie.. you should know how to do this... chance favors the prepared...

YouTubes are awesome.

Getting up close with the running gear on your AS is important.. Removing wheels is a simple but crucial skill to master.

You need the correct 'socket' to fit the Lug Nut... see how they are inside the wheel.. you may need an 'impact wrench' type of socket. they have a 'thin' wall and fit inside nicely. You need a 'breaker bar' long enough for you to break loose the lug nuts... they tend to 'stick' to aluminum.. you will then need a 'torque wrench' to properly reinstall and 'torque' the lug nuts to specifications.

Or, call AAA (if you have CELL coverage) and wait... just be prepared with enough adult beverage to last until the mechanic arrives.

Hi

For convenience, you also need an extension to go between the torque wrench (or breaker bar) and the socket. Even a 1" extension will do some good. 3" is about ideal. Why? Well without it, you will be bashing your knuckles into the tire. You already are a bit frustrated doing this .... anything that adds to that is not going to help you get it done...... I have empirical data on this ...

Bob