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Old 06-08-2013, 12:28 PM   #1
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New Kodiak Brakes Don't Fit Original Wheel

I just bought a new set of Kodiak Rotors/calipers and discovered that the 12" size (which is all I believe I can get) is just a little too big for the stock, original wheels on my trailer.

The original rotors are 11" and so the calipers fit inside with no problems. But with a 12" rotor, even with a pretty slim caliper setup, it clearly rubs on the inside of the wheel where the metal is thickest angling towards the mounting bolts.

It looks like I have to get new wheels - which I am fine with. But the problem I am concerned with is that the backspace difference between the original rims and most new rims puts the tire 1.5 inches closer to the wheel well. I'll have to do some final measurements this evening to verify but I am wondering if anybody has changed wheels and was able to pack a tire in the wheel well after going from 5" backspace to 3.5" backspace.
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:30 PM   #2
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I installed spacer shims between the rotors and wheels on the last one I retrofitted. Everything was extremely close, but fit.
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:38 PM   #3
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I thought about that, but it looks like the studs on the rotor may become REALLY short if I do that. How big of a shim did you use?
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Old 06-08-2013, 01:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buttercup View Post
I thought about that, but it looks like the studs on the rotor may become REALLY short if I do that. How big of a shim did you use?
I remember it being 1/2". I also used lug nuts with extended thread sections.
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:03 PM   #5
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Check out this thread where I discuss the same issues. I am not going to be installing disk brakes at least till my tires wear out and I can go to 16" rims. There are probably some 15" rims they will fit but not the stock aluminum rims.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ity-95201.html

Perry
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:45 PM   #6
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Thanks Perry, reading it now. But what I wonder is if new rims will fit that wheelwell if I went that way. I want to explore all options.
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Old 06-08-2013, 03:42 PM   #7
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This wheel

the wheels in THIS POST are exactly what I was looking at, but from a different source.
However, time being a factor, I could do 1/2 inch shims and longer bolts. They must be easy to bang out being all fresh and new. Any suggestions/links for new studs? Length, specs?
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Old 06-08-2013, 03:48 PM   #8
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I think the aftermarket 15" rims have the same offset but they allow more room for the caliper. You need to check if you can run your current wheels 1/2" farther out without clearance issues. I would see if I could find something local and try it on the axel without a tire and go from there.

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Old 06-08-2013, 04:01 PM   #9
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I did look for something local, best I could come up with was Summit Racing, but they were 3 weeks out to getting that size wheel. So, I am electing to perhaps order with 3-5 day shipping. I just need one day to get the tires swapped to the new rims and while I am waiting for shipping I can have the new rotors installed and ready to go.
So, its a toss up between shims & studs or new wheels.....
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Old 06-08-2013, 04:08 PM   #10
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I am not sure of the validity of this worry but some have stated that problems could occur by having another interface for corrosion etc to mess things up. Airstream even says to install rims on the same axel clocked to the same stud unless you wire brush the interface to remove all traces of corrosion. I would say this would be more of an issue in places that are wet and that use road salt.

Dumpster had a rim come off the axel and do alot of damage to his trailer.

Perry
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Old 06-08-2013, 10:34 PM   #11
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Well, we pretty much have failure compounding upon failure with these new brakes. I went to Summit Racing and picked up some wheel spacers - but the opening was not big enough. Looks like my ONLY option is to pick up several stacks of 1/4 inch spacers and use them stacked 2 per wheel to get the distance. I did pull the studs out of one new rotor so I can get longer ones.

Next thing, the inboard bearing appears to be the same size as the old rotor, but the outboard bearing is not - it sank half way into the seat. So, now I need to know what bearing to get for that outboard (smaller) bearing. The seal also looks like it fits fine.

Still thinking about those new rims.....
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:27 AM   #12
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If you put what amounts to a washer on each stud you will end up in the news. What holds the tire on is the friction between the drum face and the rim. The bolt only holds the two together. In cases where rims or drums have the wrong dish to them with poor contact with each other the rim will come off.

Bearings and races should be replaced as a pair. When I get new hubs I remove the races that are in there and put my old races in. Sometimes there are differences in the angle of the bearing and race. If the bearings are different, you probably have hubs that have a different rating than the your axles.

Wheel and Hub Failures

Perry
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:40 AM   #13
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Thanks Perry, this gives me something to think about. I don't like the wheel spacer option as much as I like the idea of new, more appropriate wheels, etc...

So, you were able to press in your old races and use your old bearings from your original rotors?
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:51 AM   #14
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I have drum brakes but was thinking of going to disk brakes since I needed new brakes anyway. I got to reading about clearance problems with the old aluminum rims and decided to do some CAD drawings to back that up.

With cars and trucks where I know the race OD and the spindle are the same, I just pound the old races out and install them in the new hubs. If you want to put in new bearing get the race and bearing together. Sometimes they play games with the outer bearing and leave the inner bearing the same. I thought that trailer bearings were pretty much standardized though but Kodiak may have changed something. I would call Kodiak and see what they say about the bearing issue.

Perry
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