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12-30-2012, 07:53 AM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,320
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Mother's Recipe for Packing Wheel Bearings
I have read some good information in this forum concerning packing wheel bearings. It seems we all have a technique that works for us.
I do have some questions that you experienced mechanics may be able to help me with.
1. Do you think synthetic wheel bearing grease is worth the extra expense, even though we re-pack bearings every year or so?
2. Does anyone leave extra grease between the bearings? I usually spoon a gob or two into the center of the hub. My mother told me to do this. I wonder if it serves any purpose.
3. It seems I am always "between the flats" when I retighten the castle nut. I thighten until I achieve some torque while rotating the drum, and then I back off until I can align the cotter pin hole. Sometimes it is almost a whole flat and this seems pretty loose. Too tight is bad, but is sloppy okay?
4 I need to drive out the bearing races from my drums. There isn't much of an edge to push the race out. What is the best technique for punching out the bearing races from the hub. I don't have an arbor press or a tool to press out the races.
Thanks in advance.
David
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12-30-2012, 08:17 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1978 28' Ambassador
Morada
, California
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,584
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IMHO...
1. If synthetic grease has properties that allow it to 'Lube' longer, or at a higher temp, etc., its probably worth the extra cost...just in case you have a marginal experience...
2. That extra glop can't hurt...if a hub heats up, that extra grease will help to lube as the grease becomes 'fluid' due to the high temps...
3. The adjustment of new bearings should be checked again after the bearings have 'run in' on the road - that in between bearing load will usually be settled by then.
__________________
Ray & Pat; Morada, CA
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12-30-2012, 08:23 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1978 28' Ambassador
Morada
, California
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,584
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4. Removing old races can be a hassle... Some hubs have room to use a punch from the opposite side to drive them out...On larger hubs I've welded a bead on the brg surface that actually 'shrinks' the brg cup and it almost falls out! Installing the new cups is easy - use an old cup, reversed, against it, then a socket that fits, and tap it into place...
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Ray & Pat; Morada, CA
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12-30-2012, 08:33 AM
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#4
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Refurbished 89 Excella
1988 29' Excella
Sugar Valley
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 246
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When tightening the nut results in the "just right" place being on the flat, I use advice from my old Auto Mechanics teacher Mr. Pearson, back in 63. Still true today. When it tightens to much or to loose to line it up like you want it, use an extra washer and it takes up just the right amount of space to get the clearance like it needs to be......Easy.......God bless.....Dennis
__________________
Dennis & Susan
D&D Farms, Sugar Valley, Ga
Registered Boer goats
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12-30-2012, 08:49 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,944
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Here is an article I wrote for Northern Illinois members: Northern Illinois » Maintenance It summarizes the recommendations from Timken and others.
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12-30-2012, 09:20 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
Placerville
, California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mexray
IMHO...
1. If synthetic grease has properties that allow it to 'Lube' longer, or at a higher temp, etc., its probably worth the extra cost...just in case you have a marginal experience...
2. That extra glop can't hurt...if a hub heats up, that extra grease will help to lube as the grease becomes 'fluid' due to the high temps...
3. The adjustment of new bearings should be checked again after the bearings have 'run in' on the road - that in between bearing load will usually be settled by then.
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Ray.....you have answered a question that I never thought to ask my dad when he 'educated' me on car maintenence on my first car in the mid '50s. He told me to place a 'glob' of grease in the bearing cap. Through the years I had heard from many that this was a waste but because my dad did this I have continued to do so if for no other reason but to honor him. As to the propper tightning of the bearings he showed me to place a screw driver between the large washer under the axle nut and hub as you tighten it. Twist the screw driver to move the washer until as you tighten the nut until the washer doesn't move then back off to where you can slip the pin in. Dad passed away in 1962 but I 'hear' him with these and many other 'tips' and much more.
Neil
__________________
Neil and Lynn Holman
FreshAir #12407
Avatar;
Kirk Creek, Big Sur, Ca. coast.
1966 Trade Wind
1971 Buick Centurion convertible
455 cid
1969 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
455 cid
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12-30-2012, 11:29 AM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
2003 25' Safari
Riverside
, California
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 234
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Adding extra grease is a waste and will accomplish nothing.If your bearings get so hot it liquifies the grease you have a problem.
The synthetic grease is well worth the small premium in price over a cheap grease but there are also some very good wheel bearing greases out there that are not synthetic
__________________
2003 25' Safari
2005 Ram 2500 4x4
1994 Ram 2500 4x4
2015 Toyota Tacoma trd 4x4
2000 Jeep Wrangler 4x4
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12-30-2012, 12:32 PM
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#8
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Master of Universe
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,711
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It is ok to put some extra grease in the hub, but not much. Too much grease will not allow the bearings to cool well as the grease holds the heat generated by driving. No need to put any in the dust cover. If you really load it with grease, the grease has nowhere to expand when it gets hot.
The castellated nut is better too loose than too tight. There should be a little bit of play when you hold the hub in both hands and try to jiggle it (I think the jiggle is measured in 10,000ths on an inch, but few people measure it and you can feel it). You tighten the nut enough to seat the hub (maybe 20 lbs. on the wrench) and then back it off to the next place to put the cotter pin in. I don't check with a torque wrench, but guess on what 20 lbs. is. Then check for jiggle.
The jiggle always worries me because I generally believe tight is better than loose, but the rules are suspended on wheel bearings.
Gene
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12-30-2012, 12:45 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
2003 25' Safari
Riverside
, California
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawfordGene
It is ok to put some extra grease in the hub, but not much. Too much grease will not allow the bearings to cool well as the grease holds the heat generated by driving. No need to put any in the dust cover. If you really load it with grease, the grease has nowhere to expand when it gets hot.
The castellated nut is better too loose than too tight. There should be a little bit of play when you hold the hub in both hands and try to jiggle it (I think the jiggle is measured in 10,000ths on an inch, but few people measure it and you can feel it). You tighten the nut enough to seat the hub (maybe 20 lbs. on the wrench) and then back it off to the next place to put the cotter pin in. I don't check with a torque wrench, but guess on what 20 lbs. is. Then check for jiggle.
The jiggle always worries me because I generally believe tight is better than loose, but the rules are suspended on wheel bearings.
Gene
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extra grease doesnt hurt but it helps nothing except to sell grease
__________________
2003 25' Safari
2005 Ram 2500 4x4
1994 Ram 2500 4x4
2015 Toyota Tacoma trd 4x4
2000 Jeep Wrangler 4x4
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12-30-2012, 01:02 PM
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#10
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retired USA/USAF
2001 30' Excella
Somerset
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
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If you plan to re-pack every year any good quality wheel bearing grease is more than up to the job. If you don't, then the synthetic might give some peace of mind. In reality I feel that all good quality wheel bearings are more than adequate for multi year packings.
After tightening the nut and backing off to install the cotter pin I always spin the wheel to make sure things rotate nicely and grab it top / bottom and give it a shake and make sure there is that " little bit" of play there. While traveling I frequently put a hand on the hubs when I stop to feel for any excessive heat building up. Good insurance.
__________________
Roger in NJ
" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948
TAC - NJ 18
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12-30-2012, 01:07 PM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
2003 25' Safari
Riverside
, California
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarlyse
While traveling I frequently put a hand on the hubs when I stop to feel for any excessive heat building up. Good insurance.
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I use an ir heatgun as i do a quick walk around at fuel stops
__________________
2003 25' Safari
2005 Ram 2500 4x4
1994 Ram 2500 4x4
2015 Toyota Tacoma trd 4x4
2000 Jeep Wrangler 4x4
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12-30-2012, 02:16 PM
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#12
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Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
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1. Do you think synthetic wheel bearing grease is worth the extra expense, even though we re-pack bearings every year or so?
Application is also related to Climate and Terrain when factoring how greases are made. Boat trailers need something slightly different, as does equipment used in very low temps. Or an Iraqi summer. Etc.
Pretty much any NLGI-2 grease will work (if that is the specification), but I always feel a little bit better by buying grease from a top shelf manufacturer (such as Schaeffers). Ask advice given from a good description of application & use. And then buy a bunch (then you have the excuse of a dedicated box divided for tools & supplies).
It's a PITA job given what other type of hubs are out there nowadays, so splurge a little.
an' . . 'choo Mama pack wheel bearin's? She wear Army boots and got tatt's? (whoops, gues that's all kinza Mamas nowadays!)
.
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12-30-2012, 08:43 PM
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#13
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retired USA/USAF
2001 30' Excella
Somerset
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
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bye the way, I think the original poster asked about tools for removing the races from the hub. I have a long steel punch with a flat tip on it. I have not needed to remove the races from my AS hubs but it has served me well for several jobs on automobile hubs. Shouldn't be any different. There's usually a very small lip for the punch to grab and that's just enough to get some movement. Slow and sure tapping as you go will work. Must have a flat tip on the punch or else you will never get it started.
__________________
Roger in NJ
" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948
TAC - NJ 18
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12-30-2012, 08:58 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarlyse
bye the way, I think the original poster asked about tools for removing the races from the hub. I have a long steel punch with a flat tip on it. I have not needed to remove the races from my AS hubs but it has served me well for several jobs on automobile hubs. Shouldn't be any different. There's usually a very small lip for the punch to grab and that's just enough to get some movement. Slow and sure tapping as you go will work. Must have a flat tip on the punch or else you will never get it started.
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Hi, same as above, but I was taught, and always use a Brass Drift, to remove and re-install bearing races.
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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01-04-2013, 01:00 PM
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#15
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Moderator dude
1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,510
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A thin grease coating in the hub and dust cap will prevent rust. Especially brand new replacement parts. These components operate at a higher temperature which may create moisture in the hub that was contained in the air in the hub. That moisture in contact with bare metal will cause rust. More grease than a coating loaded into the hub or the dust cap isn't needed.
>>>>>>Action
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1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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01-04-2013, 01:47 PM
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#16
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Put races in freezer overnight, and heat the hub, propane torch will werk ....albeit slowly.
Bob
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I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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01-04-2013, 08:12 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
Put races in freezer overnight, and heat the hub, propane torch will werk ....albeit slowly.
Bob
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Hi, or if you live in California, just leave your hubs on your driveway in the Sun. [no torch needed]
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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