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Old 05-29-2007, 12:42 PM   #1
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Method of Torquing Lug Nuts

Inorder to check the torque which in my case is 110#, should I test the nuts as they are or should they be loosened and then retorqued? I attempted to check the torque but even after applying reasonable pressure the wrench did not break. I assumed evrything was tight enough and left well enough alone. I realize that it is difficult to describe but how much pressure should be exerted before the wrench breaks or clicks, but I felt that I was a 200 # weakling or perhaps the wrench was not functioning..
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:48 PM   #2
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Retorquing requires that you first loosten the nut, then torque to specs. If they're so tight that they don't release at the specified tightening torque that's OK, you're really looking for loose ones.
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excella CM
Retorquing requires that you first loosten the nut, then torque to specs. If they're so tight that they don't release at the specified tightening torque that's OK, you're really looking for loose ones.
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Interesting I did find some loose nuts on my Hensely. I mean really loose.
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:57 PM   #4
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Assuming that you did not torque the lug nuts yourself. I would suggest that you loosten them and retorque yourself as they may be way too tight. The fact that they don't loosten with the torque wrench set at 110# doesn't mean that they are neccessarily too tight, but it's easy enough to do it right. With the torque wrench set at 110 ft lbs, it should be fairly easy to reach "the click". If it is taking gorilla strength on the wrench, it could be malfunctioning.
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Old 05-29-2007, 01:11 PM   #5
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Glad the subject came up. My neighbor and I disagree on the proper use of torque wrenches. Using a 'beam' type wrench, does it matter if you use an extension, ie 18 in pipe on the handle so old folks/weaklings can actually achieve the required torque? By the way, the handle does not 'wobble' like some models, it is fixed.
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Old 05-29-2007, 01:20 PM   #6
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The calibration is not affected by extending the handle at the grip end, provided the extension device doesn't put pressure anywhere but the grip area, i.e. not down the shaft closer to the nut.

Since torque is measured by force times the moment arm, you can extend the wrench end with a special piece with square holes in each end. then you need to add a calculation for the longer moment arm.
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Old 05-29-2007, 06:40 PM   #7
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I have decided that I will leave well enough alone. I will take the path of least resistance and stop by the Camping World service Dept. They did it for me for me last time. Can't beleive I am so incompetent.
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Old 05-29-2007, 07:03 PM   #8
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When I had tires replaced by CW, the only torquing they did was tighten until the air wrench stopped. I asked them to get a torque wrench and do it again.

Trust no one, 30 or not.

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Old 05-29-2007, 07:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore
When I had tires replaced by CW, the only torquing they did was tighten until the air wrench stopped. I asked them to get a torque wrench and do it again.

Trust no one, 30 or not.

Pat
Your correct. I stayed with them.
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Old 05-29-2007, 08:39 PM   #10
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Excella...
I was with you on the first bit, which is what I thought...one can extend the handle from the handle, not the arm, and not affect the reading. However, your next comment left me a bit stupid. (which is easy to do). Just didn't get the second part. Sorry.
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Old 05-29-2007, 09:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore
When I had tires replaced by CW, the only torquing they did was tighten until the air wrench stopped. I asked them to get a torque wrench and do it again.

Trust no one, 30 or not.

Pat
Pat, You did the right thing. I personally would not trust CW to change a light bulb. This is based on the follow-up repairs I have had to do after a customers went to CW first for the lower price. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. If you want a $12/hour untrained/uncertified tech to work on your rig....go for it!

That said, adding an extension to a torque wrench will not effect the torque, but any torque wrench should be able to attain it's rated specifications, so why bother? You can also add an extension directly in line with the head of the wrench and the socket with no effect on the torque, but if you use any other type of attachment, like a crow's foot, you have to re-calculate the torque.

I have the formula buried somewhere. Let me know if you need it.

And finally, yes, to do a proper re-torque of the nuts, you should loosen them first and then re-torque them to spec.
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Old 05-29-2007, 09:41 PM   #12
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Sorry I was being fuscus (or was that opaque?)! If you have a wrench with a 1 foot handle and pull on it with 100# of force, you get 100 ft/lbs of torque. If you extend the length of the handle to 2 feet, you only need 50# of force to get 100 ft/lbs. of torque. This is how you get to apply large torque settings with a small wrench (up to a point).
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Old 05-30-2007, 01:41 PM   #13
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Using an extension from the socket to the wrench will make a differnece in the accuracy. Sometimes this can not be avioded because of the tire. Just make that extension as short as possible.

Using an extension on the handle of the torque wrench can have a bigger impact on the reading if the extension is attached to the wrench in an area other than the handle of the wrench. My beam type wrench has a pivot point in the handle. It is important that the pressure and/or extension be applied at that pivot point. Pressure in another area would give inaccurate readings. Same would apply to a click type wrench. Apply the pressure/extension to the handle.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
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Old 05-30-2007, 02:12 PM   #14
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apples and oranges

The fog of confusion creeps in on lttle cat feet...

Please note that "ACTION" and I are talking about different kinds of extensions!
He is referring to extending the distance between the socket and the wrench orthogonal to the wrench, a common practice to obtain adequate clearance.
I am refering to extending the distance inline (parallel) to the handle.

Finally, this isn't a super-critical item-small errors in wheel torque don't make much difference and is not likely to lead to disaster. If you have the wherewithall to torque to specs, great-do it. If you don't, then, better tight than loose until you can.
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