Lug Nut Torque

[alan]

I have just acquired a 1985 Sovereign (25 ft) without a manual. I am wondering if anyone has information on the correct torque for the wheel nuts.

[somefun]

The bolts on my '74 are stamped 90-95 ft lbs.

[Ken J]

Alan

90 to 95 should be correct

Ken J.

[alan]

Thanks very much.

[woodedareas]

When I picked up my new Safari this week the dealer advised me to check the torgue of our lug nuts every so often. He said they shoul be 110'. I puchase a torque wrench but found out that due to the interior wheel location I would require an extension for the wrench which means that the wrench has to be adjusted for the distance of the extension. How often do I need to do this and is there any easier method????

[clancy_boy]

Relax, the loss of torque for a 10 inch extension is in the noise for the torque you will be applying. Set your wrench for 110#'s and you will be fine. Follow the manual specs for the pattern you need to follow for the lug nuts.

[AlbertF]

A heavy truck mechanic I know (neighbour's son-in-law) once mentioned to me that whenever wheel nuts are re-installed, they try to do a torque check after about 60 miles of travel. They do not loosen the nuts, but simply set the torque wrench and ensure that the nuts are at least as tight as they are supposed to be.

I suppose the torque wrench should be part of our travelling tool kits.

[overlander63]

There is a formula for determining torque reduction over extension length, but for a relatively short extension, and a relatively high torque, it won't be a major issue. If you feel better about it, you can torque to 115 lb/ft, and be really close to what torque should be without making a lot of agebreaic calculations.
You should check the torque at 10, 50, 100, 250, 500, and 1000 miles.

[Silverhobby]

Hello woodedareas, I am in no position to dispute what your dealer recommended. But in the latest Blue Beret magazine on page 9, there is A Safety Note from Herb Quade, WBCCI # 3575 stating; "It has been brought to our attention that quite a few aluminum wheels have failed due to excessive torque on the lug nuts. A good guideline to follow is 85 foot pounds unless otherwise specified and check the torque after driving about 50 miles." This statement is an entire quote from Herb Quade.

[clancy_boy]

Good point Silverhobby, this was an issue with a Ford recall on F150's a few years back. Seems a pnumatic lug nut robot at a plant overtorqued allot of aluminum wheels and they cracked at the hub. Follow the manuals suggestions and specifications.

[moosetags]

We set ours at 115 foot pounds and check it about once a week. We have found that things stay right if you keep checking it. We do the same thing with our Hensley at 45 foot pounds and have have found that this nneds checking more often that the lug nuts on the trailer wheels. Be sure to check tire pressure also. This is Very important.

[thecatsandi]

This is a good idea. I picked up my 06 Classic 31 in NC and towed it back to VA. I checked the torque when I got home. One of the nuts was loose and about to fall off. Some were lower than they should be, others were fine.
Check them often when new. Before each trip is a good idea as well....

[scottanlily]

This problem is seemingly specific to trailers with aluminum wheels .Ive followed alot of threads on this ,and its not a steel whell problem. I do not
recommend going 115 ft lbs ,when torqueing any fastener more is NOT better.
already we have too many incidences where these wheel studs are breaking
off with the aluminum wheels .I do say to check them as routine ,but not give
them a " little more " each time unless they are below the torque value as
each little bit more just to be sure can over torque and stretch the stud and
it can break .What really bothers me is that these wheels seem to be so
problematic on these trailers .I work with car and truck aluminum wheels
everyday constantly ,Never are the aluminum wheels / nuts ever loose .
never had any aluminum wheel on a honda ,nissan, toyota ,or chevy suburban ,chrysler ,or ford come off the vehical ,so this deal with these
nuts being loose is a concern .Has anyone ever bought a new vehical and
drove it home and retorqued the wheels once a week ?? does anyone check
the wheels on their civic before they head off to a trip somewhere? Nope
and they shouldn't need to .I don't like the whole idea of this thing with
these aluminum wheels coming loose . Its not right .

Scott

[Devoman]

I know someone who had an expierience with having the lugs overtorqued.It stretches the bolts itself also if to much pressure is pulling on it.When pulling your camper the weight and unsmooth roads can eventually break one and the domino effects starts happening.Next thing you know your tire is in your Airstreams bedroom from being slung so hard off the hub.I sure dont ever want to go down that road.I think 85 pounds is perfect if that is what they say to do.If you want to be safe go to 100 pounds.

[Devoman]

I always try to check everything before I go on a trip.Even the bolts on my Vehicle.You just cant ever be to safe.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by scottanlily

This problem is seemingly specific to trailers with aluminum wheels .Ive followed alot of threads on this ,and its not a steel whell problem. I do not
recommend going 115 ft lbs ,when torqueing any fastener more is NOT better.
already we have too many incidences where these wheel studs are breaking
off with the aluminum wheels .I do say to check them as routine ,but not give
them a " little more " each time unless they are below the torque value as
each little bit more just to be sure can over torque and stretch the stud and
it can break .What really bothers me is that these wheels seem to be so
problematic on these trailers .I work with car and truck aluminum wheels
everyday constantly ,Never are the aluminum wheels / nuts ever loose .
never had any aluminum wheel on a honda ,nissan, toyota ,or chevy suburban ,chrysler ,or ford come off the vehical ,so this deal with these
nuts being loose is a concern .Has anyone ever bought a new vehical and
drove it home and retorqued the wheels once a week ?? does anyone check
the wheels on their civic before they head off to a trip somewhere? Nope
and they shouldn't need to .I don't like the whole idea of this thing with
these aluminum wheels coming loose . Its not right .

Scott

One possible theory is that the wheel studs are not seated properly inside the hub when new. Then, slowly but surely, the studs pull into the hub, increasing the effective outside length of the stud, and therefore loosening the lug to a point of failure. Crude parts, poor balance, and sloppy attitudes towards "trailer parts" are to blame for this, in my opinion. Why else would there be trailer brake drums that are so severely out of balance that it takes 3+ oz to make them run smoothly?
In my case, I checked the lug nuts several times, and never had one loosen up. (yet...) I do use aluminum wheels with steel inserts where the wheel studs go throught he center of the wheel. I torqued the wheel nuts to 100lbs.

[scottanlily]

Devoman ,you know Ive been thinking the ( one breaks and they all go ) thing
for some time .in my workings with trailers the constant thing I have noticed
that the center hub (on the drum or rotor ) does not center the wheel .
Matter of fact the studs center the wheel and support the wheel .On all
the older trailers ,even early aluminum wheel 70s trailers ,the hub snout is
precisely fitted thru the center of the wheel .All car and truck wheels are
hub centric this way ,the hub supports the wheel ,NOT the studs .All stock
steel wheels are this way and auto /truck aluminum wheels are also this way
even big trucks .most all aftermarket wheels either steel or aluminum are not
and rely soley on the wheel studs for support ,not good .The white spoke
wheels on alot of trailers are stud reliant ,no hub support .The wheel studs
hold the wheel on tightly ,the hub centric wheel will be better .Im thinking that these trailers must not have hub centric wheels ,but stud reliant meaning no hub support .Trailers predominently do not use any hub centric
wheels unless you have the steel 2600# style steel wheels or equivelent.
They did for many many years before though. I believe this problem needs
some way to be resolved .Yes ,over torqueing does break studs ,but theres
more going on here with this problem .

Scott

[scottanlily]

Hello UWE ,

I agree that the inserts in the wheel are very important ,and not all wheels are coming off ,a high quality wheel is important as well. The studs may be weak or cheap or both ,and the drums are also not that great ,china made
no doubt ,mass produced ,yes but still Id like a resolve to all this ,the folks with the Red Argosy were a victim to wheel stud failure and enough is enough ,somthings got to be resolved ,their wheel was not hub centric either.

Scott

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, this is some sort of a repeat, but I torque my Navigator at 150#s per Ford and my Safari at 120#s per Airstream owner's manual. It was shown that some Airstreams are torqued at 85#s, but not mine. The reason for the retorqueing is that they can come loose and Manufacturers don't want the liability. As for the extension thing; Torqueing by hand, the extension torque lose is so little, if any at all, becomes meaningless. But the more stuff you add to your neumatic air tools, you will lose some torque. [extensions, multiple extensions, wobble sockets, and other combinations] I personally check torque on trailer and tow vehicle before every trip.

Bob

[moosetags]

I have been torquing the lugs to 115 foot pounds because my Airstream Manual says to tighten to 110 to 120 foot pounds, so I spliit the difference and use 115. Are you guys saying that 115 is too tight? I would like to know what you recommend. My '05 25' Safari has the standard alloy wheels.