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Old 02-03-2014, 04:17 PM   #15
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2002 30' Classic
Ocala , Florida
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I had this happen in 2008 in Minnesota en route to Alaska. Used a short handled sledge and punch, drove out the 6 broken studs. Took one to NAPA and they were able to match it. Drove the new studs into the hub, torqued the wheel a couple of times to stretch the lugs a bit and hit the road the next day. Stopped every 50 miles to check and tighten the first day then about every 150 miles each day of our trip. Enjoyed Alaska, driving about 10,000 miles with trailer in tow. No further problems.

Unless there is visual damage to the torsion axel can't believe it will take more than installing 6 new lugs to get back on the road. Then check the Torque frequently.

I have since bought a spare lug while at JC to have as a sample if need to replace in future.

Met an Airstreamer 2 summers ago in Iowa who had the same happen to him the day before.. Same fix as mine.
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:18 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Ntex View Post
On I-10, trailer swerved. Stopped and found our brand new SenDel wheel gone. New lug nuts appear to be sheared off. Luckily were able to limp half mile to Flying J in El Paso on 3 wheels. They are being helpful and think we may need a new axle. If so, any chance we will find a suitable one locally? There is a Camping World here. For our 2004 Classic, how do we find out what axle we need. Check the book? Call Airstream? I will search the forum too but thought someone out there might have advice. When our adventure is over, I will get my husband to post about the necessity of checking lug nuts frequently.
Were you able to find your wheel/tire after it came off. As others have said you should be able to replace the broken studs in the hub and I can't see any reason to replace the axle. The axle had nothing to do this issue.

Maybe someone can provide the correct replacement lugs for your trailer. You may also want to see if you can find a local mobile RV service operation. I would not let Camping World within a mile of an Airstream trailer. Just my opinion. Good luck.
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:25 PM   #17
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f465...ud-106388.html

This link will answer the question as to the part needed
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:43 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by panheaddale View Post
I pull campers out of Elkhart IN. When we pick up a new camper we have to torque lug nut and they use sendel wheels which we are required to torque to 120#. We have to torque when we pick up, 25 miles and at 50 miles and their are usually a few of the lug nut that have loosened up. If we don't torque and something happens we are liable for damages. 125# is right on the money
I stand corrected!! Glad you posted that
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:06 PM   #19
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If they used a impact wrench to install the new rims I would say the lug nuts where put on to tight.
They could have used 700 ft lbs of torque to remove the lug nuts and than installed the lug nuts back with the same.
I have watched at the tire shop when they install the rims back on they use the impact wrench and then check with a with torqe wrench set on 100 ft lbs and it clicks on the first try.

My son had brought his wifes car over after it had been in the shop for a flat because they had installed the lug nuts so tight that my impact wrench would not break them loose. We had to use a lug nut wrench with a cheater and than even had to stand on it to break the lug nuts loose.

I may use an impact wrench to remove lug nuts but I always try to reinstall without one.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:19 PM   #20
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We didn't go back and look for the wheel, nor do I know whether a torque wrench was used to install the new wheels.
It turns out the repair facility where we dropped the trailer is a separately owned truck and trailer repair shop, not part of the Flying J, and they seemed to know what they were doing. They thought we needed a new hub. Andy at Inland talked to us on the phone and suggested that might be what we needed as well, but it would have taken days to get here. The repair shop installed a used hub they say fits perfectly.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:28 PM   #21
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Oops..hit send before I was done. We also located a steel wheel of the right size and a matching Michelin at the local
Discount Tire which we will use to go home..then keep as the spare once we get a new Sendel wheel.
Before installing the new Sendels I read the various discussions on the forum about torque, and concluded then as now that there are differences of opinion. My husband told them to install at 125 because that was what the Sendel wheels recommended.
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:08 AM   #22
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The Airstream factory recommends the 125 foot pounds number on the SenDel wheels.
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:49 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntex View Post
Oops..hit send before I was done. We also located a steel wheel of the right size and a matching Michelin at the local
Discount Tire which we will use to go home..then keep as the spare once we get a new Sendel wheel.
Before installing the new Sendels I read the various discussions on the forum about torque, and concluded then as now that there are differences of opinion. My husband told them to install at 125 because that was what the Sendel wheels recommended.
Hi, I think a lot of people miss this, and I did too for the longest time. My owner's manual states to torque my lug nuts to 110 to 120 lbs. [aluminum wheels] I always torque at the maximum. So I torque my lug nuts to 120 lbs. I have never yet used my spare, but my owner's manual states the steel wheel should only be torqued to 90 lbs.
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