Loose Lug Nuts Heads Up.

[xrvr]

Everything should be checked periodically as part of normal maintenance schedule. Lug nuts, hitch fasteners, bumper bolts on tv and receiver etc.

[r carl]

Originally Posted by MelGoddard

Overlander is right on!
The use of 'Nev-R-Sieze, C-5 Colloidal Copper, or similar requires that the spec'd. torque be reduced by 40%; or the result is a stripped, or broken stud.
Eg. 100 Ft.Lb must be reduced to 60 Ft.Lb. to achieve the same bolt tension.
(Source: Premier Fastener Corp. I was once an agent for them.)

Since the average mechanic is not familiar with 'lube-torque', the advice holds concrete.
Thou shalt NOT lube the wheel threads when torqueing up the wheels!
Only on Aircraft wheels is Lube-Torque used when assembling a wheel, to specified torques.

I would torque a lubed 1/2 20 nut 90ft#.
http://americanboltcorp.com/tech/techtorque.pdf

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by dames7

One of the best thing is to replace the factory lugs with a good one piece nut.

There are Two many 2 piece nuts that the factory has use and when it time to change a tire you can't get the nuts off.

Most of the 2017 models now come with one piece lug nuts.

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Most of the 2017 models now come with one piece lug nuts.

Well, that's an encouraging sign at least. If theyalso switch to composite flooring and resolve the filiform issue, I would seriously consider buying a new one!

[Bob662]

Originally Posted by Cannonball

And deep set sockets. You may also need some extensions, depending on your trailer's bodywork configurations.

...and 6-point sockets. Under high loads, a 12-point socket is more likely to round off the corners.

[mwkersh]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Most of the 2017 models now come with one piece lug nuts.

Really? How can you find our which models without taking the lugs off? I was just getting ready to order lugs for our new 2017 FC 26U (it's in storage right now so I couldn't verify what it has) until I saw this. I may not need new ones then.

[Bob662]

Originally Posted by Cascadian

I can get a 50-300 lb 3/4 inch Torque wrench... But I have also read differing accounts about retightening and warns that it can stretch them.Whereby they need to be replaced. Confused.

Torque wrenches lose accuracy at the extremes of their scales. They're most accurate mid-range. So if you have a 300 ft. pound wrench and that's also the torque value, you might consider using anti-seize on the stud, then reduce torque value to 180 (60% of dry torque value).

[dames7]

Take one lug off and see what brand it is and then you should be able to see what you have

[Boxite]

Here is an excellent one-piece replacement which I've ordered, inspected, and found to be good quality. They appearance-wise are virtually identical to the OEM lugnuts except are STEEL and CHROME plated, are one piece, and have the correct "acorn, bulge" base the aluminum wheels require. The price is good also, 23 nuts, $15 with free shipping.
Mine arrived via Priority Mail.
Let me add that when I rec'd two wheels from a Flying Cloud (the owner had swapped out for the Sendel wheels) I found my lug-wrench would not fit within the deep "well" to properly seat the OEM nuts. This is because the lug wrench has a "thicker" socket welded onto it. I used a common deep-socket and there's no problem with those wheels. (This issue has abosolutely NOTHING to do with these new lug nuts, I only wanted to warn others that some wheels have narrow nut-wells which require thin-wall sockets and may not accommodate ordinary lug wrenches, ... therefore test YOUR lugwrench before departing on a trip.)


http://www.ebay.com/itm/331318138314...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by Boxite

Here is an excellent one-piece replacement which I've ordered, inspected, and found to be good quality. They appearance-wise are virtually identical to the OEM lugnuts except are STEEL and CHROME plated, are one piece, and have the correct "acorn, bulge" base the aluminum wheels require. The price is good also, 23 nuts, $15 with free shipping.
Mine arrived via Priority Mail.
Let me add that when I rec'd two wheels from a Flying Cloud (the owner had swapped out for the Sendel wheels) I found my lug-wrench would not fit within the deep "well" to properly seat the OEM nuts. This is because the lug wrench has a "thicker" socket welded onto it. I used a common deep-socket and there's no problem with those wheels. (This issue has abosolutely NOTHING to do with these new lug nuts, I only wanted to warn others that some wheels have narrow nut-wells which require thin-wall sockets and may not accommodate ordinary lug wrenches, ... therefore test YOUR lugwrench before departing on a trip.)


http://www.ebay.com/itm/331318138314...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I had that problem with the size of the bores in my wheels. Rather than use a this wall 12 point, I ground down the O.D. of a couple of impact 6 point sockets and that worked fine.

I normally use an impact wrench only for removal.

But I do also have "torque sticks" I could use for application though when at home. I have checked their accuracy against regular torque wrenches and found them to be surprisingly accurate.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by dames7

Make sure you get a 3/4"

WHY???
Normal people use a 1/2".

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by Adiredneck

I have to laugh; I bought a very nice Craftsmen torque wrench back in the mid-1970s, which is now part of my "on-board" tool box. I've used it more checking my Airstream lugs and hitch connections in the last two years than it saw use in the prior 43 years combined!

Me too.
My 'Craftsman' was from Canadian Tire, made by Husky in Bolton, and as an aircraft tech was required to have it certified every three months. (At DeHavilland Aircraft).
The Boss at 'Metrology' asked me one time, where I got it. I told him.
"No **** way"!
The wrench went through all the tests up the scale at 100%. The tolerance is +/-4%, and none of the Snap-On wrenches reached 100%.
I still have and use this wrench.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by Cascadian

what about hitches? I have a Reese that I haven't installed yet and they recommend 300lbs on the head bolts. Airstream Seattle will do the install. Do those need to be retightened? Ever? I can get a 50-300 lb 3/4 inch Torque wrench if so. But I have also read differing accounts about retightening and warns that it can stretch them.Whereby they need to be replaced. Confused.

You don't need a 3/4" wrench.
A 1/2" will do fine; most go up to 250 Ft. Lb.
You can reach the equivalent of 300 Ft. Lb. (dry), by applying lube to the threads and nut faces of the fasteners, and reducing the torque by amounts as follows.
Oil--reduce torque by 20%
grease---30-35%
C-5 Colloidal Copper, Nev-R-Sieze, etc.....40%
(source: Premier Fastener Corp.)

Note this:
Many hitches have a rather loose fitment between the shank and the head, and tightening up the bolts to spec, can result in the bolts loosening due to the head's arms collapsing under the bolt tension.
This can cause bolt failure by 'fatigue break'.
You can prevent this by measuring the clearance, and shimming that space.
Some MFG'rs (Reese?) will include shims with their kits.
Notice in the attached photo, where I have shimmed the head, and used Grade 8 bolts.
(You may need to enlarge the photo to see the shim there.)
I measured .040 here, and made my own shim.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by r carl

I would torque a lubed 1/2 20 nut 90ft#.
http://americanboltcorp.com/tech/techtorque.pdf

I wouldn't!
"Leave it lay where Jesus flang it!"
Or some 'no-nothing' grease monkey will ruin your day.
Ask me how I know!

[dames7]

Little more heavy duty

[openroad118]

Ok, so I got my new torque wrench (actually my second, as the first one broke torqueing the nuts on my truck) and checked the nuts on the AS, set for 100 ft#. Wrench clicked without moving any of the nuts. So I don't know what the nuts were set at. Should I loosen each one and re-torque?

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by openroad118

Ok, so I got my new torque wrench (actually my second, as the first one broke torqueing the nuts on my truck) and checked the nuts on the AS, set for 100 ft#. Wrench clicked without moving any of the nuts. So I don't know what the nuts were set at. Should I loosen each one and re-torque?

Yes

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by dames7

You can get a nice one at Home Depot, craftsman, best warranty.

I predict 10 posts before someone opines that a torque wrench MUST be calibrated before using.

Originally Posted by MelGoddard

WHY???
Normal people use a 1/2".

Because if a $100 wrench is good, a $500 wrench is more better.

[GCinSC2]

If you're the creative garage master that many of us claim to be it's a doable task to check the reading.

BIG bolt secured in a stout vise. Socket and wrench setup to try to turn bolt. Make sure wrench is horizontal.

Measuring from center of drive to the point at which a know value fairly heavy weight will hang.

If the wrench is 20" from center of drive to where you will hang the weight that's 1.666' multiply that times your know weight say 40 lb that's 66.7 lb-ft. Heavier weight available do the math.

I've done this at work to check a wrench, worked out pretty easy.

[Ruscal]

Originally Posted by openroad118

Ok, so I got my new torque wrench (actually my second, as the first one broke torqueing the nuts on my truck) and checked the nuts on the AS, set for 100 ft#. Wrench clicked without moving any of the nuts. So I don't know what the nuts were set at. Should I loosen each one and re-torque?

I had an experience where a tire shop gunned down the lugs on my truck so tight that I couldn't loosen them with a hand held lug wrench when beside the road with a flat tire. I was stuck. So, yes it would be good to loosen yours and retorque.
Russ