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Old 01-01-2013, 05:47 AM   #1
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Installing New Races in Hubs - Help Needed

Happy New Year Everyone

My winter project is new wheel bearings. I have purchased new races and bearings.

I had a hard time driving out the bearing races from the brake drum, or some say hub. I used a punch and hammer. There was very little of the bearing race exposed to rest my punch and bang out the race. But I finally got them all out.

I now have to drive the new races into the clean hub. I don't have a press or proper bearing driver. What have you folks devised to get the race started in its bore, and then drive it to the shoulder?

My brake drums are Dexter 12 x 2 with six studs rated at 5200. I see they sell them new with the bearing races already installed.

David
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:56 AM   #2
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I have used the old bearing race or a board, as a buffer, and driven them in by tapping evenly with a hammer. If it cocks, it will not go. If you warm the drum and freeze the race it will be easier.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:59 AM   #3
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Find a socket that is just a little smaller then the race to use as a driver.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:34 AM   #4
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Yes,

... good advice above. There's almost always a socket that's just the right size. And heating the hub in the oven and chilling the race in the freezer often gives "just enough" interference fit differential to make the job easier. Also, make sure that the hub's machined surface where the race fits is completely clean - a little extra time spent here with some very fine emery cloth or such can pay big dividends.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:42 AM   #5
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I like to use one of the old races as a buffer between the hammer and the new race, but I cut a slot in it with a power hacksaw so it will compress just a little. It works well, allows you to drive the new race all the way in, protects the new race, and makes the job easier.

Been doing this for years, and now have a complete set of races for every trailer I own, but wouldn't you know it, our new to us '10 uses Neverlube bearings, so now I need to buy a large socket and C clip pliars.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
I like to use one of the old races as a buffer between the hammer and the new race, but I cut a slot in it with a power hacksaw so it will compress just a little. It works well, allows you to drive the new race all the way in, protects the new race, and makes the job easier.

Been doing this for years, and now have a complete set of races for every trailer I own, but wouldn't you know it, our new to us '10 uses Neverlube bearings, so now I need to buy a large socket and C clip pliars.
That's the same technique I use when I do an install that I don't have a driver for but I use a cut off saw on the old race
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:02 AM   #7
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I like the idea of cutting a slot in the old race to use as a driver. I will look for two big sockets with the right outside diameter to use as a driver.

And I like the idea of freezing the race, and maybe heating the hub to reduce the interference fit. These ideas give me hope I can drive the new races to the shoulders with out damaging them.

Heck, here in Minnesota, the great outdoors is just one big deep freezer. It will work great to leave my races outside overnight.

David
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:27 AM   #8
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Take your time and go lightly " all around" no matter what method you choose. They will go in. Patience is your friend here. As you tap them in you will hear the difference in the sound when they hit bottom. You'll know when you're there.

Good luck with it. And HAPPY NEW YEAR
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:06 AM   #9
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Socket as a driver, done that, works just fine. I have one possible try this about using a socket. Make a mini press out of a piece of 1/2" or larger diameter threaded rod. This requires a large enough set of washers to bridge across the 1/2" or 3/4" drive hole in the socket and a piece of steel on the opposite end to pull against. Set it up and start tightening, watch for any tilting, and reset, start tightening, continue until seated. I think you'd be surprised how controlled this is and doesn't impact the parts, just pulls them in.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:14 AM   #10
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All good suggestions above. But I was happiest when I bought a graduated set of drivers with beveled shoulders to match the race . Just remember to go slow and tap, tap, tap. Don't bang, bang, bang.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Socket as a driver, done that, works just fine. I have one possible try this about using a socket. Make a mini press out of a piece of 1/2" or larger diameter threaded rod. This requires a large enough set of washers to bridge across the 1/2" or 3/4" drive hole in the socket and a piece of steel on the opposite end to pull against. Set it up and start tightening, watch for any tilting, and reset, start tightening, continue until seated. I think you'd be surprised how controlled this is and doesn't impact the parts, just pulls them in.

That is a great idea. Use a threaded rod as a "press". I'm going to rig up something along those lines. I recall my strut spring compressor I used to compress the springs on my car. Worked just fine.

Thanks,

David
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:22 AM   #12
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I find the hub more stable and easier to work on if I leave it bolted to the wheel. This does not apply if you have a fully equipped work shop with giant press.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:27 AM   #13
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I haven't done this on an airstream hub but I have on other applications...

To install the new race, heat the hub in a hot plate. Cool the race in the freezer. One quick move and the race will drop right into place, a couple of taps and its set!
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:52 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightdi View Post
I have used the old bearing race or a board, as a buffer, and driven them in by tapping evenly with a hammer. If it cocks, it will not go. If you warm the drum and freeze the race it will be easier.
X2....races drop/tapped right in when I did our 63 Safari. Put races in the freezer overnight and carefully heated the hub's. (did have O/A torch though), give it a try with a propane unit, can't hurt, beat's bang'n.

Bob
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