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Old 04-04-2010, 08:44 PM   #15
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one other part of repacking the bearings is to inspect the bearing rollers and race. if you leave old grease, you can't inspect the bearing properly.
Absolutely. A critical part of the re-packing process is a thorough visual inspection. Here's what we found last Fall.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f437...eck-57131.html
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Old 04-04-2010, 11:01 PM   #16
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Ok, next: Who's grease do you prefer to use to repack the bearings with?
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Old 04-05-2010, 06:14 AM   #17
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Experts recommend never using compressed air to blow / dry the solvent out of bearings, as this could cause spin at high speed and galling, etc.
I can't believe that spinning dry bearings with air or by hand for a few seconds under no load would cause any harm.

Isn't it kind of hard to resist?
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:08 AM   #18
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I don't think spinning them by hand under no load can cause any harm - anyway, I can't resist. But I don't air-spin 'em.

They are ground to very tight tolerances and are precision hardened; just a little nick can start bad things to happen. I've had bearings fail, once on a rented trailer far from the nearest paved road, and now I take no chances with them. They are one of the few "show stoppers" in RVing, and I don't want my show stopped!
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:22 AM   #19
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Ok, next: Who's grease do you prefer to use to repack the bearings with?
Now that question can lead to looong arguments! But if you want to use the absolute best lubricants that beats them all without a doubt use this stuff. Lubrication Engineers - LE History
Ive used their products for over 20yrs and it still impresses me. Not having to buy a single ball joint, tie rod, bearing, transmission, or motor has saved me sooo much money over the yrs. You can buy it by calling the company.
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:24 AM   #20
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I can't believe that spinning dry bearings with air or by hand for a few seconds under no load would cause any harm.

Isn't it kind of hard to resist?
You can spin them with air but just not at a high speed!!! Only slowly.
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:37 AM   #21
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Diesel fuel works fine and it's much safer as a solvent/parts cleaner than gasoline is.
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:59 AM   #22
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Ohh, how I hate wheel bearing grease on my hands especially some of the synthetics or wateproof types with dye in them. Wear nitrile gloves when handling the bearings and a little trick I was taught by an old time mechanic years ago. Put the bearings in a plastic sandwich bag, throw in a blob of bearing grease, close the bag and put the bearing in the bag into the center of your palm and massage the new grease into the bearing with your other hand. It's a whole lot less messy that way.
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:05 AM   #23
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My 2 cents. Based on over 30 years as a firefighter and the owner of a foreign car repair business, NEVER use gasoline as a cleaner. If you are a repair facility, you would be in violation of the fire code and required to stop immediately. Not only are the fumes toxic, but I can't tell how many buildings and even apartment complexes caught fire from someone using gasoline to clean car parts. Where do home mechanics work on their vehicles? : the garage. Where is the natural gas fired water heater and furnace usually located?: the garage. I even provided medical care to idiots burned from washing vehicle parts in a shallow pan while smoking a cigarette. Any reputable repair facility uses solvent. It is less toxic and far less volatile. Kerosene or diesel fuel is a second choice. My favorite cleaner is a liquid that comes in a 1 gallon metal container called Tyme. It was by far the best at cleaning carbon deposits in carburators and goes after dirt and grease like Sherman went through Georgia. Also rinsed off with plain old water. Very hard to find though. The problem with any of these methods is what to do with the used stuff. I think most states require it goes to a hazardous materials facility. In larger communities, there are free drop off sites. Most counties have them too. Some repair shops will take it for a fee, but most avoid mixing unknowns with their solvents.
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:12 AM   #24
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Any solvent used that is flamable, should be used in a plastic container and do not use an acid brush with a metal handle. All solvents need to be disposed of in a proper manner. We have a recycling center at the transfer station.

My favorite bearing greese is Wolfs Head.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:32 AM   #25
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Why don't you wipe off as much as you can. Then clean them with solvent and see how much old grease and crud you missed?
thanks to everyone for your advice. As yet, no-one who has replied just wipes away the old grease with a shop towel; everyone uses some type of solvent. So unless I hear otherwise, I'll use the method suggested above.

again, thanks for your help
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:58 AM   #26
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Thumbs up How to remove old wheel bearing grease

After reading all this thread Let me share from 35 years experience with wheel bearings,
1.Use clean shop towel to remove excess of grease from bearings and races

2. Use approved safety solvent to wash bearings and races to remove all traces of grease
Note: Do not use Gasoline! The safety factor alone should stop you, it is HIGHLY flammable and Dangerous.
3. Wash bearings and races with Hot soapy water and rinse in hot water.
4. Blow bearings and races dry with compressed air Danger: Do not spin bearings with compressed air as they can sieze and explode.
5.Wipe clean with clean lint free shop towel and carefully inspect bearing rollers and races for wear. Keep bearings in matched sets always.
6.Repack with approved bearing grease (Drum brakes usually call for a different grease than Disc Brakes) using the heel of your hand working grease completely through bearing. If available a good bearing packer is suitable also. Coat Races with a coat of lubricant when re-installing. Be sure to replace wheel seals and coat them with a thin layer of lube.
7. When re-installing roll wheel as you tighten bearing nut to about 4-7 lbs ft of torque, note position of nut, back off one flat(1/6 turn) this should give you approximately 3-5 thousanths end play which is preferred for roller bearings that are externally packed.

I cannot overemphasize enough DO NOT USE GASOLINE to clean bearings!!! One spark and you are a serious burn victim, and yet I see articles in the paper from time to time about this very thing... Remember SAFETY FIRST!!!
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Old 04-06-2010, 10:03 AM   #27
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Let the pros do it

We have a shop here in Mo. that charges 20 buck a side to repack the bearings.
If they need a new boot/boots then your lookin at around 75 bucks. Worth it to us.
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Old 04-06-2010, 10:14 AM   #28
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Pros sometimes short cut, $20 per side sounds like "Too cheap" to do the job right.
Mike
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