How to Pack Bearings and check brakes?

[crabbey1]

Hey guys. I wanted to get some advice on doing some exterior maintenance now that my interior is about done. First things on my checklist are to check/pack the bearings and check/replace the brakes...

I don't currently have a heavy duty jack and plan to get a 3-ton. That should be sufficient for my 76 22' Argosy, I believe. I also plan to get 4 jack stands. Will this be all I need to get the trailer safely off the ground to check and repair these items?

What do I need to look for when checking/repacking the bearings? How about the brakes? I did some research through the forums but did not find specific info. Next I am heading over to Youtube... Any advice would be super helpful.

Thanks!!!

Chris

[Silverflames]

Well you don't really need that big of a jack. You might want to lift one side at time, work on one side put it back and then the other.

When it comes down to the brakes, backing plates are the way to go. Inland RV , Outdoors mart both should have them. Backing plates are usually 4 bolts and 2 wires. And everything is new. Really the way to go.

the bearings, it's the same as any other bearings.

[woodfox45]

As Silverflames said if you buy the new brake assembly it is the way to go . i did this a couple years ago drums and all. you will also get new bearings and seals .

[crabbey1]

Thanks guys. New backing plates it is. Just checked inland rv's site and they are having a sale. I am going to head over there this weekend...

Watched a few videos on YouTube videos and it seems straight forward enough to do the replacement.

[jdalrymple]

I agree the folks above. One doesn't need to lift and support the entire trailer at once.

Just work one side at a time.

The backing plates they refer to are actually the complete braking assembly on it's mounting plate. This includes new brake shoes, actuators, and magnets.


These plates are simply bolted onto mounting tabs on the axle, so one does not have to mess with springs and linkages. Just remove the 4 bolts, cut the electrical wires, and then replace.

It means a completely new brake package.

As for the bearings, if one has ever packed a wheel bearing, you have seen these too. A cotter key, castle nut and the drum is off. Clean and inspect the bearing, replace the seal and back they go.


Best regards,

JD

[polarlyse]

A fun job. A bit messy so don't forget the rubber gloves and double them up. They make bearing packing devices that work well but no better than doing it by hand. Make sure you get the better seals. Double lip with a spring inside to help keep them snug. I have the part #s for my seals and bearings but not sure if they are the same for you. If your bearings are good and just need re-packing go for it. If you need to replace them don't forget to get the races for them too. Sometimes they come as a set and sometimes separately. I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic grease and it's available most anywhere but any good wheel bearing grease will do nicely.

Good luck. This is a great do-it-yourselfer job.
OH, and get some good water proof electric butt connectors to re-connect your brake wires when done. Unless you feel like soldering them. Don't tighten the bearing nuts too much. This is critical so beware. I check my wheels often while traveling. Warm to the touch is normal and good. Too hot to touch means something is amiss.

[overlander64]

Greetings crabbey1!

The two suggestions that I might add to what has already been posted are:

1.

Prior to reassembling your brakes, have the drums turned as well as having your shoes machined to match the drums. This was recommended by the shop that overhauled the brakes on my Overlander and it made a remarkable difference in the smoothness of the brake operation.

2.

You don't absolutely have to jack up your Argosy to handle this operation. Sincer your Argosy 22 is a tandem axle trailer, you can pull one wheel up onto a series of leveling blocks to raise the wheel next to the one on blocks . . . just be sure to block the opposite wheels and be sure that the tow vehicle's parking brake is set for safety.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin

[ROBERT CROSS]

Old School.....method.

The part numbers are on the bearing/race. Needed for seals and replacement bearing set.


Bob

[Silver Hawk]

When repacking berings it's always recommended to replace the seal each time - cheep and good insurance since a little contaminate will ruin a bearing fast.

When putting back the nut: tighten firmly, than back off 1/4 turn at most to hole for cotter pin. Some recommended backing off to next hole.

Must adjust brakes after work - and within 300 miles - than every 3000. Tighten up 'sprocket' inside drum (bottom back) till wheel locks up, than back off till brake still 'drags' a bit.

[deauxrite]

Buy the self adjusting brakes if you want to keep from having to adjust them every 3000 miles. They work great!

[Poolman]

I am working on my running gear as well. Has anyone seen a badly grooved drum on the inside face. IE, not where the shoes contact, but where the magnet makes contact. The rest of the drum looks good, but the old magnets have grooved the inside face of the drum pretty bad. Can they be turned?? Does it matter?

[cwf]

Originally Posted by Poolman

I am working on my running gear as well. Has anyone seen a badly grooved drum on the inside face. IE, not where the shoes contact, but where the magnet makes contact. The rest of the drum looks good, but the old magnets have grooved the inside face of the drum pretty bad. Can they be turned?? Does it matter?

Pawpaw would replace. You have too much worth protecting.

[Poolman]

Originally Posted by cwf

Pawpaw would replace. You have too much worth protecting.

Gotcha......modify parts order. Check.

[Aviator]

I highly recommend a new set of Dexter self adjusting brakes. Buy the entire assembly drum and all. It then becomes a simple remove and replace operation. The brakes will adjust themselves each time they are applied when going forward. Then it is a simple matter of keeping an eye on how they operate as you tow, and repacking the bearings once a year which will also give an up close look at the brake system.

[Lance M]

Originally Posted by Poolman

I am working on my running gear as well. Has anyone seen a badly grooved drum on the inside face. IE, not where the shoes contact, but where the magnet makes contact. The rest of the drum looks good, but the old magnets have grooved the inside face of the drum pretty bad. Can they be turned?? Does it matter?

Hello and welcome to the forums.
Yes they matter.
Yes the magnet contact area can be resurfaced if the grooves are not too deep. Most of the time it is less expensive to just replace the hub/drum assy and add a new set of bearings. It also sounds like you'll need new magnets. You are starting to get to a point where it may make more sense ($ and time) to replace the axles.
You can read a few axle threads here and get an idea what you are getting yourself into. You've come to the right place for assistance, for sure!

[Poolman]

Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the welcome Top.

Trying to get the trailer towable since we are about four hours from where she currently resides.

I was considering complete axle, brake, drum bearing sest for her. But checking the trailer out this weekend, looks like the axles are in decent shape. They are not solidified and still have decent travel. Wheels look good. Tires and brakes are shot.

I figure about 2 years worth of renovations/upgrades, so I will probably replace the axles prior to any real travel plans since they are 30 yrs old. Just trying to get it home.

Looks like only one of the four drums is in real bad shape.
Question, if the grooved drum is unable to be turned, would you risk a one time/four hour drive just to get her home? (assuming new brake assemblies and tires)

[ROBERT CROSS]

My experience with our 63 Safari....moderate grooving, 1/16" +- deep.

The brakes worked work fine, the worn magnet plate wore the magnet face to match. I just smoothed the surface with a die grinder as best I could.
In 15 seasons I changed the magnets 3 times when brakes serviced.


Bob

[Poolman]

Thanks for all the feedback! Gotta love these forums and the experienced advice.

I figured I could get home with some grooving, but I've decided to quit pinching pennies on my first purchase. So new drums it is.
I found some drums locally, complete with new bearing kits. I am going to go ahead and buy them along with new backing plate assemblies and go get the old girl!

[Poolman]

Can anyone verify that these are Dexter drums?
Its a 6 bolt pattern, 5 1/2" spacing (12" brakes)

[Lance M]

Looks the same, but if you are getting all new drums and backing plates, the brand you are replacing is irrelevant. The dimensions for 12"x2" drums are to an industry standard.