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Old 12-05-2013, 06:04 PM   #29
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Don't know of any other way. I always try mine out when I hook up. I manually apply them as I pull off at very low speed. Sometimes I'll try them out if I'm on a gravel parking lot just to see if they all grab evenly. I wonder if someone is standing next to a wheel if they would be able to hear the magnet snap to the drum. If yes then you could carefully listen to each wheel to make sure they apply. Have to try that one day.
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:59 PM   #30
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I did the sound test. When the brakes are applied you can def hear an "Electricity" sound. The new brakes don't seem to grab as hard as the older ones though... Even when I pump up the brake controller. Is that normal? Is that because they are self-adjusting? I am used to brake grabbing harder and quicker when I change out my pads and rotors on my cars. I have no previous experience with these electric brakes though...
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:01 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Dexter I am sure is made in China as well. If you are looking for American made parts you won't find them.

Perry
These replacements are chinamade for sure....

The originals lasted 7yrs 25K+ and were much more robust. Dexter told me last year that they were in the process of returning mfg back to N. America...'wanna buy a bridge?

These were replaced after 6000mi.

They were not worn out, the lining is very thin even when new, nowhere near what you would see on the auto variety shoe.
The bonding failed, no evidence at all of overheating.

When you inspect your brakes pay careful attention to the ends, if you see any space at all between lining and shoe, toss 'em.
Also check the sides for space, and the facing for stress cracks, evident on all these shoes. You can see what happened when I lifted the loose end.


Dexter did replace the shoes N/C..... so the fancy Dexter box was worth something after all.

I have the cores and will have them re-built locally with riveted linings if the need arises.

Bob
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:01 PM   #32
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If the wheels are off the ground, you can press down the brake pedal with a board, or use a cinder block to hold it down. then try spinning the wheels while they are off the ground.

I was able to hear a slight hum with my old breaks, but not with the new ones.
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:19 PM   #33
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I just had my drums off to inspect the brakes and re-pack the bearings. Linings looked good to me. Not sure when they were installed. We bought the trailer from a friend 1.5yrs ago. I may replace before summer travels though. Keep in mind, when installing the self adjusting units that the first adjustment should be made manually after putting the drum back on. I don't know how effective the self adjusting mechanism would be for that first time. I recommend doing a first adjustment the old fashioned way and from then on the self adjusting should be able to take over that job.
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:21 PM   #34
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Yes the shoes from China are thin and cheap. I hope Dexter does start making them here again. If the lining is too thin it will take forever for them to seat in. The Chinese ones have about 1/8" on them new. You need at least 3/16" to 1/4" in my opinion.

Perry

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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
These replacements are chinamade for sure....

The originals lasted 7yrs 25K+ and were much more robust. Dexter told me last year that they were in the process of returning mfg back to N. America...'wanna buy a bridge?

These were replaced after 6000mi.

They were not worn out, the lining is very thin even when new, nowhere near what you would see on the auto variety shoe.
The bonding failed, no evidence at all of overheating.

When you inspect your brakes pay careful attention to the ends, if you see any space at all between lining and shoe, toss 'em.
Also check the sides for space, and the facing for stress cracks, evident on all these shoes. You can see what happened when I lifted the loose end.


Dexter did replace the shoes N/C..... so the fancy Dexter box was worth something after all.

I have the cores and will have them re-built locally with riveted linings if the need arises.

Bob
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:12 PM   #35
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Burnishing

Quote:
Originally Posted by crabbey1 View Post
I did the sound test. When the brakes are applied you can def hear an "Electricity" sound. The new brakes don't seem to grab as hard as the older ones though... Even when I pump up the brake controller. Is that normal? Is that because they are self-adjusting? I am used to brake grabbing harder and quicker when I change out my pads and rotors on my cars. I have no previous experience with these electric brakes though...
Have you burnished the shoes into the drums?

From Dexter-
"NOTE: After replacing your brake shoes and magnets you will experience a decrease in braking performance until the components have worn into the drum and finished the burnishing process. This process requires many stops to bring the new shoe's performance back to normal. This may take more than 100 stops to finish this break-in period with stops of 20 mph decreases in speed."

See page 16
http://www.united-trailers.com/Uploa...s/Manual_6.pdf
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:25 PM   #36
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So to burnish them is to just use them approx 100 times? No I have not had 100 + stops at over 20 mph yet. I only had the trailer out once since I did the install. But this is good information to hear... Thanks Top.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:27 PM   #37
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Hey, you are welcome.
20-30 times should do you


"After replacement of brake shoes and linings, the brakes must be
re-burnished to seat in the new components. This should be done
by applying the brakes 20 to 30 times from an initial speed of 40
m.p.h., slowing the vehicle to 20 m.p.h. Allow ample time for
brakes to cool between applications. This procedure allows the
brake shoes to seat in to the drum surface."
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:29 PM   #38
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testing brakes

So could you take a battery and attach brake wires to check the basic operation with out having the TV elec hooked up?.. what is voltage needed to activate brakes.. i figure it has a min and max but not sure what that number might be.

that way you can at least listen for the mag engagement and check for some resistance on the drum..

just throwing out ideas here.
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Old 12-10-2013, 10:11 AM   #39
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Yes you can hook battery directly....if using fused circuit. Do NOT directly connect without fuse!
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Old 12-10-2013, 11:32 AM   #40
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Re: grooved brake drums and shoes. Grooved or worn brake drums work just fine with matching grooved shoes. In other words, they wore in together and they match. As long as the shoes are not worn out, or the lining separating from the shoe.

There is a funny story about this that I will not bore you with now.

The shoes and drums must match. This is why, when you replace the brake shoes you must turn the drums or replace them if they are not smooth.

Funny drum brake story. Back before disc brakes became common, the best heavy duty brakes were drum brakes with cerametallic linings. These linings were fade proof but very hard, they scored the brake drums quickly.

GM sponsored a Corvette racing team that used these cerametallic brakes. After every race, the brake drums and linings would be all rutted and chewed up looking so they put on new brakes before the next race.

One week they were pressed for time so they went to the races with the old brakes still on.

The worn out brake worked like gangbusters. When they took off the drums for inspection they found almost no wear. They still looked just as bad as when they started and hadn't got any worse.

Then they realized that far from being worn out, the brakes were just broken in. After that they did not worry about scoring of the brake drums. They left them until the linings were worn out then put on new drums and linings.
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:37 AM   #41
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The drums don't need to be baby butt smooth to work with new shoes. The grooves can be shallow and they will take a little longer to break in. I will usually roughen the surface to aid in break in. The ones that really need turning are the ones with deep grooves and ones that were run with the lining completely gone. Also any wedge shaped wear or curved shaped wear would be a reason to turn a drum. I would worry more about the magnet face not being smooth. If you put new magnets on an old drum, any out of flatness will really mess things up. It is best to replace the magnets and drums as a set. Yeah you can grind the magnet face but how much is too much metal gone. I would expect that braking force is a function of how far that magnet has to move to stick to that drum face. At low voltages it may not stick at all because it is too far away.


Perry
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:54 PM   #42
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None of my drums had large grooves but they seem to be taking their time breaking in. Two trips down and still not 100%. I hope they get it together before my cross country jaunt in a couple weeks.
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