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Old 09-16-2010, 08:48 AM   #1
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How tight

I should know this but in case it's different from a tow vehicle.I'm repacking bearings and wonder how to install the caslelated(sp) nut. I assume you tighten down to seat things and then back off to line up the cotter pin. How tight/loose? I don't want to damage bearings.I don't have a torque wrench so avoid pretty tight or kinda loose. Thanks.
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:54 AM   #2
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I don't know that you can use a torque wrench to do this anyway.

I have always just used a regular wrench to "snug everything up" I guess the only way I can describe it is "until I feel resistance."

I then back the nut off to the next available slot where I can insert the cotter pin and do so.

Finally, as force of habit, I just grab teh hub and try to move it laterally to ensure myself it isn't "sloppy-loose."

ever had any problem doing this on wheel bearings over many (well,
actually many, many!) years.


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Old 09-16-2010, 09:08 AM   #3
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Frt wheel brgs

Well if memory is correct, I recall the 2005 GMC has a front hub assembly which means there is no repacking of wheel bearings possible. Bearing get noisy, rough or seem to be loose then you purchase the hub assembly. When you install the hub assembly you will have a spec. Have you pulled yours apart and found something else?

Good luck on the maintenance, Mike
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Old 09-16-2010, 09:16 AM   #4
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to finger resistance and back to the nearest slot....

tight causes excess heat and wear
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:29 AM   #5
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Mike is correct if this is a 4wd.The is nothing to pack,they are sealed units and must be completley replaced. Its not a hard installation at all. If its 2 wheel drive with a standard spindle,I tighten em with a wrench to make sure they seat.Then loosen the nut and retighten finger tight to resistance. My Ford does not have a castle nut.IT has a regular nut and then a castle nut like thing that slips over the nut,which makes it like a castle nut,with the notches that you put the cotter key thru and thru the end of the spindle.
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAT View Post
I should know this but in case it's different from a tow vehicle...
From this, I am led to believe that GAT is not packing the bearings on a tow vehicle of any kind, but rather on his trailer.
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Old 09-16-2010, 09:51 PM   #7
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How tight

This is correct. I am repacking the bearings(maybe) on my new 1976 Soverign. I have not re-done bearings in many years and was concerned if tightness increased with heat. I think I will go with the recommendation of tight,loose, then fingure tight not to over do. I say maybe, because I am also fairly soon going to replace the axels and trying to decide if a complete set is the best way to go. I need to see what's inside before I decide. Thank you for your good help. Having a bearing go out on a busy highway isn't my idea of fun.
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:36 PM   #8
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This is correct. I am repacking the bearings(maybe) on my new 1976 Soverign. I have not re-done bearings in many years and was concerned if tightness increased with heat. I think I will go with the recommendation of tight,loose, then fingure tight not to over do. I say maybe, because I am also fairly soon going to replace the axels and trying to decide if a complete set is the best way to go. I need to see what's inside before I decide. Thank you for your good help. Having a bearing go out on a busy highway isn't my idea of fun.
Sounds like you are on the right track. I usually pack, go tight, spin a few times, loosen, barely tighten, then back off to the nearest castle slot. Then spin again and do the wiggle test.

If you're doing axles anyway, complete ones with new brakes and bearings would be worth considering.
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:41 PM   #9
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If you are repacking the bearings and just replacing the seals, then finger tight and back off to the next slot is probably OK.

If you are replacing the bearings, you should torque them to 50 ft-lbs (while turning) to make sure the races are seated tight in the hub. Then back off completely, re-tighten finger tight and loosen to the nearest slot.
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Old 09-17-2010, 09:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vswingfield View Post
From this, I am led to believe that GAT is not packing the bearings on a tow vehicle of any kind, but rather on his trailer.
OOOPS... Guess next time I will read slower.
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Old 09-17-2010, 09:51 AM   #11
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I kinda do it the way Mark Does.Works fer me. I just finished rotors and pads and repacked the bearings on my F150 thats the way I tighten em.
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:00 AM   #12
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From working on Range Rovers, it's a feel: tighten to snug up the bearing and thrust washer back off and then snug ,don't over tighten and the back off to the first hole.
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:36 AM   #13
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Finger tight isn't enough for seating bearing. It is very easy to have a slight cocking of the bearing in it's seat. Go tight maybe 10 - 20 lb/feet (by feel is ok), back off to next castellation and check for smooth turning, with little drag, as well as no discernable or very little rocking motion.
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