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Old 10-09-2018, 01:52 AM   #41
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2016 30' International
redondo beach , California
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Ditto the above for a battery powered impact wrench.
We use a Dewalt 1/2" drive.

On our current journey so far we used it three times.

Once for a guy who damaged his scissor jacks on SOB. We were able to get them to move. Another time a guy was changing out his big block Chevy starter at a rest stop. We got that off for him. Finally we had our own truck tire drama and was able to take care of that using the impact wrench. Very cool tool!
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Old 10-09-2018, 05:05 AM   #42
kpm
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Mound , Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatLee View Post
I learned how to torque my AS nuts (and importance of doing so) at the Salem rally this past summer. So, I bought a Tekton Torque Wrench 3/4" drive and then searched high and low for a Tekton extension bar to fit it; and finally found it on eBay (but had to buy a 3-bar set). Tekton also does not sell individual sockets so ended up buying a deep 6-socket set to fit the 3/4" drive wrench with extension bar and then discovered that the socket is too thick-sided to fit on to the AS nuts! A Home Depot person told me my set was for big rigs, not ASs and Ford F-150s. Feeling sort of stupid now. Before I start buying another set that fits my rig, would love to hear what you all use for your torque set (brand, drive, extension bar length, etc). Thanks
You might consider getting a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer. That way you can use your 3/4" torque wrench with 1/2" sockets with thinner walls. I too own a 3/4" Tekton torque wrench rated at 300 ft.-lb. It comes in handy for hitch work since my Equalizer shank bolts require a 320 ft.-lb. torque. (Ok, I cheat a bit .)
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Old 10-09-2018, 05:38 AM   #43
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Tallahassee , Florida
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Another time a guy was changing out his big block Chevy starter at a rest stop. We got that off for him.

That's great! I'm sure he appreciated the assistance.

Is this some kind of special tool, or is it like the Dewalt drill I have, which has an impact setting?

Man, if I get more tools to haul around, I may be headed to F-250 territory ...
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Old 10-09-2018, 05:46 AM   #44
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2017 30' International
Charlotte , North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpm View Post
You might consider getting a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer. That way you can use your 3/4" torque wrench with 1/2" sockets with thinner walls. I too own a 3/4" Tekton torque wrench rated at 300 ft.-lb. It comes in handy for hitch work since my Equalizer shank bolts require a 320 ft.-lb. torque. (Ok, I cheat a bit .)
What about the 450 ft lb. Hitch ball nut?
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Old 10-09-2018, 06:08 AM   #45
kpm
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Mound , Minnesota
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Ha, good catch. I have that done professionally once a season.
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Old 10-09-2018, 06:51 AM   #46
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Craftsman tools

Quote:
Originally Posted by bweybright View Post
If i have it right, Craftsman is now owned by Stanley...who also owns Dewalt and Porter Cable. Check the Craftsman tools carefully. If they don't state "forged" then they are cheap Chinese made stuff that has terrible tolerances. I have 4 Craftsman wrenches that are made in China and they are all different sizes. Tools are definitely a "buyer beware" scenario out there...unless you have the bucks for Snap on or similar pro quality.
BTW. I was in Lowe's recently and they had Craftsman socket sets on sale. They also had 2 Craftsman gas powered leaf mulches out front with all other brands they carry. The lady at they "pick-up desk" said she was told they'd be taking over the Craftsman brand line. It's a shame that and old dependable store like Sears and Craftsman might be a thing of the past.
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Old 10-09-2018, 08:53 AM   #47
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1956 16' Bubble
San Luis Obispo , California
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A what?

What is a breaker Bar? What does it lol like? Is it the tool shaped like + with sockets on each of the tips?
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Old 10-09-2018, 09:01 AM   #48
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1956 16' Bubble
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Got it

I didn’t check the Harbor Freight site before I asked my dumb question; wasn’t expecting pictures. A breaker looks like a long handle at a right angle to the socket , no? I can see how that would be handy to have.
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Old 10-09-2018, 09:02 AM   #49
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A long non-ratcheting bar used to "Break" free larger nuts or bolts. The handle is long to gain leverage for that purpose.


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Old 10-09-2018, 09:07 AM   #50
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Mound , Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Chick View Post
I didn’t check the Harbor Freight site before I asked my dumb question; wasn’t expecting pictures. A breaker looks like a long handle at a right angle to the socket , no? I can see how that would be handy to have.
Yes. The socket is on a swivel but the socket is generally used at a right angle. The distinctive feature of a breaker bar is the long handle, which provides more leverage than a typical ratchet.
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Old 10-09-2018, 10:59 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpm View Post
Ha, good catch. I have that done professionally once a season.
I use a 4ft pipe on my 3/4 breaker bar and tug on it like I was pulling 100lbs. When I asked my Airstream dealer tech, he said they do the same thing.

A torque wrench that goes up that high is very pricey. Apparently no one wants to buy one, haha.
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Old 10-09-2018, 11:18 AM   #52
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2007 22' International CCD
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Etymology of the term, "Breaker Bar"

Usual usage of a 'breaker bar' is to 'break loose' stuck nuts or bolts.

An alternate usage is to break fasteners into smaller, difficult to remove pieces with excessive torque in the wrong direction. Especially apt description if the operator is the least little bit dyslexic, and has a little trouble with "lefty-loosy, righty-tighty" concepts.

Don't be asking too closely about why I am very familiar with this issue. Just let it be said that as a big, strong kid, helping my dear Dad overhaul Marine GM 6-71 Diesel engine cooling systems, I got real good at drilling out snapped bolts and studs and using "easy-out" bolt remover tools on the remains at regular intervals...
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Old 10-09-2018, 11:54 AM   #53
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Mound , Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al U. Minium View Post
I use a 4ft pipe on my 3/4 breaker bar and tug on it like I was pulling 100lbs. When I asked my Airstream dealer tech, he said they do the same thing.

A torque wrench that goes up that high is very pricey. Apparently no one wants to buy one, haha.
Thanks for this tip. I've got the breaker bar and pipe is easy to come by. Looks like I'm just one thin-walled socket away from a DIY solution.
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Old 10-09-2018, 04:49 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastrob View Post
It likely has 6 point lug nuts of a size that should be checked out. Suggest a set of Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...-pc-62491.html
Those flip sockets ... wish I’d gotten those instead.
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Old 10-09-2018, 06:38 PM   #55
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Charlotte , North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al U. Minium View Post
I did have an old Craftsman torque wrench I bought in the 70s. But some nimrod at Carolina Motorsports Park borrowed it, supposedly to check the torque on his track car, but brought it back broken from using it as a breaker bar. Did not say a word. And folks wonder why I am a curmudgeon when they ask to borrow tools.
Surely you carried it in for a warranty replacement?
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Old 10-09-2018, 06:42 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wimpy View Post
Surely you carried it in for a warranty replacement?
Right on, my brother!

That's where I got my post century Craftsman torque wrench. :-)

Would have preferred my original....sigh.. .
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:20 PM   #57
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Charlotte , North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpm View Post
You might consider getting a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer. That way you can use your 3/4" torque wrench with 1/2" sockets with thinner walls.
You will certainly need an IMPACT reducer. The life span of a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer is extremely limited in my experience. As far as thick-walled sockets, find a small machine shop & have them reduce the O.D. so you have the clearance & depth to use them. Did that with a set of WT Tool 3/4 impacts (1" to 1 3/4"-most Taiwan made) that are still good at least 35 years later.

Get a 4' piece of stainless pipe that will fit over your breaker bar for the extra oomph as needed.

With 345 LE motorhome dually wheel nuts, any suggestions on keeping the deep socket (with extension) parallel with the stud while applying manual pressure to remove them?
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:27 PM   #58
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As this is a tool thread I hope this is an appropriate question here. Since I have lost my confidence in Craftsman...even under the new owner here is the question. Anyone with any experience and then thoughts on Home Depot versus Lowes house brands? They both carry the lifetime warranty and I have no experience with them.
I do not have the money for Snap On or any of the true professional folks stuff so can't consider them. Nor do I work them as hard as the professional folks, I am getting older and find I can turn a wrench like I once did.
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:43 PM   #59
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I've never had a Home Depot or Lowe's brand tool failure, so buy with confidence from either source. For that matter, I've never had a Harbor Freight tool failure, so I use those when it's a tool that won't get a frequent work-out. I've got a fair number of Snap-On tools, usually given me for favors rendered--I think they're high quality but seriously overpriced and not worth the extra money. Lots of mechs. use them because of their cachet and because they can be paid for over time.
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:45 AM   #60
kpm
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Mound , Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wimpy View Post
You will certainly need an IMPACT reducer. The life span of a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer is extremely limited in my experience.
Agreed. The impact reducers are much more substantial.
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