Difficulty removing tire and wheel assembly

[litlgeezer]

After I recently purchased a 1972 International, I removed one tire in order to repair a sizeable hole in the wheel well. Removing the tire was extremely difficult. I had to deflate the tire and even then it was very hard to squeeze the tire between the hub and the aluminum exterior. I experimented with different jack heights, but never found a reasonable manner to remove the tire. I have never had this much trouble with removing a tire! Putting the tire back on was just as hard too! It took me about three exhausting laborious hours to complete the job. Unfortunately, I have a hole in the opposite wheel well too. I have procrastinated repairing that one. Maybe, after the memory of the horrible experience of the first repair has faded away and my old bones have healed somewhat, I'll go for it.
It worries me to think that I would need to change an airstream tire on the road.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by litlgeezer

After I recently purchased a 1972 International, I removed one tire in order to repair a sizeable hole in the wheel well. Removing the tire was extremely difficult. I had to deflate the tire and even then it was very hard to squeeze the tire between the hub and the aluminum exterior. I experimented with different jack heights, but never found a reasonable manner to remove the tire. I have never had this much trouble with removing a tire! Putting the tire back on was just as hard too! It took me about three exhausting laborious hours to complete the job. Unfortunately, I have a hole in the opposite wheel well too. I have procrastinated repairing that one. Maybe, after the memory of the horrible experience of the first repair has faded away and my old bones have healed somewhat, I'll go for it.
It worries me to think that I would need to change an airstream tire on the road.

You are describing bad axles to a "T".

The following article will help you check them out.

The Dura-Torque Axle

Andy

[litlgeezer]

Thanks. after writing this, I mustered up the courage to 'start' removal of the other tire. Surprisingly, it came off rather easily. Funny how we learn to do things (like making a repair to our house) and then never have to repeat the task - that we have learned by the experience.
In my case, your suggestion may be applicable to the end of the axle of the first tire removal?
Another problem (there are so many) I see is how to remove the shocks for replacement. The top 'bolt' is welded to an 'arm', but the shock is so close to the frame that I don't see any way it can be slid off this top bolt or bracket!
Anyhow, thank you sir for your comment.

[overlander63]

Short term, try letting the air out of the tires, and inflating them after you get them on the hubs. Long term, you should probably check how far the wheel and hub assemblies drop down when you take the weight of the trailer off them . It's very possible the rubber rods in the axles have stiffened to the point they are not doing any good at being a suspension.

[Jim Foster]

The bushing in the shock is in two pieces, an inner and an outer. After removing the nut and washer, slide the shock toward the frame, then back. This should separate the two halves of the bushing. Slide the inner half off of the mounting bolt, then slide the shock toward the end of the bolt, leaving the other half of the bushing in it's "home" position. You should be able to then twist the shock ring over the end of the mounting bolt.

If not, you can install new shocks on the new axles (when you get them) and install the assembly.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Jim Foster

The bushing in the shock is in two pieces, an inner and an outer. After removing the nut and washer, slide the shock toward the frame, then back. This should separate the two halves of the bushing. Slide the inner half off of the mounting bolt, then slide the shock toward the end of the bolt, leaving the other half of the bushing in it's "home" position. You should be able to then twist the shock ring over the end of the mounting bolt.

If not, you can install new shocks on the new axles (when you get them) and install the assembly.

The new replacement shocks have one piece rubber bushings. If you want to reuse the original two piece bushings, you will have to cut the new bushings out of the new shocks.

[Silver Goose]

As you probably learned from andy's note, those rubber torsion assemblies lose their resiliency over the years and become stiff. They are also independent of each other so one wheel may drop some when the trailer is jacked up and another not so much, a possible explanation as why one tire was a bear to get off and the other less so. Sounds like its time for new axles and shocks. Got to think they might have 40 years on them. Check, but I think the axles come with new brake assemblies.

[TG Twinkie]

On the shock issue. You just slit the bushings on the new shocks and install one half of the bushings on the stud then the shock and the the other half of the bushings. I don't know why they aren't made with a split bushing like the originals.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by litlgeezer

Thanks. after writing this, I mustered up the courage to 'start' removal of the other tire. Surprisingly, it came off rather easily. Funny how we learn to do things (like making a repair to our house) and then never have to repeat the task - that we have learned by the experience.
In my case, your suggestion may be applicable to the end of the axle of the first tire removal?
Another problem (there are so many) I see is how to remove the shocks for replacement. The top 'bolt' is welded to an 'arm', but the shock is so close to the frame that I don't see any way it can be slid off this top bolt or bracket!
Anyhow, thank you sir for your comment.

Shock removal.

Easy problem, easy fix.

Back the shock nut off just enough so that the threads on the end are protected.

Then, using a "crow bar" bend the shock bracket just enough so that you can remove the shouck.

Nothing will be hurt.

If your going to put new shocks on, leave the bent shock brackets just the way you bent them.

Won't hurt anything.

Andy

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

On the shock issue. You just slit the bushings on the new shocks and install one half of the bushings on the stud then the shock and the the other half of the bushings. I don't know why they aren't made with a split bushing like the originals.

Don't split the grommet, simply bend the bracket.

Andy

[litlgeezer]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Shock removal.

Easy problem, easy fix.

Back the shock nut off just enough so that the threads on the end are protected.

Then, using a "crow bar" bend the shock bracket just enough so that you can remove the shouck.

Nothing will be hurt.

If your going to put new shocks on, leave the bent shock brackets just the way you bent them.

Won't hurt anything.

Andy

Again, thank you. About the axle replacement: What's the approx cost of these? Where do I buy them? How difficult to replace (any special tools needed)? Sounds Silver Goose is on target too. About the shocks: If I am reading the mails right, shocks come with the new axles?
I guess electric brake inspection, too would be in order during this process.
Next couple of months will be cold and rainy, so now I am learning and will be reviewing my options until March. Thanks.

[Ridgerunner3]

Originally Posted by litlgeezer

Again, thank you. About the axle replacement: What's the approx cost of these? Where do I buy them? How difficult to replace (any special tools needed)? Sounds Silver Goose is on target too. About the shocks: If I am reading the mails right, shocks come with the new axles?
I guess electric brake inspection, too would be in order during this process.
Next couple of months will be cold and rainy, so now I am learning and will be reviewing my options until March. Thanks.

I believe the new axles come with complete brake assemblies. And my recollection is the price is reasonable and the job is very straight forward. I am sure Andy will give you all of the details.

[ventport]

Something that was not mentioned is that a previous owner may have replaced one or more of the wheels with wheels with the wrong offset and or width. That may be why they are so hard to remove and replace.

[trapperman33]

To remove a tire and wheel make sure you jack -up the trailer body, DO NOT put the jack under the axle. The axle should "drop " about 2 inches or more, making the job much easier.

[Eagleuh1]

Don't put the jack under the body, put it under the frame at the axle mount flange. Don't put it under the swing arm part of the axle either. I'll be changing out my axles soon, just recieved them yesterday from Inland RV.

[litlgeezer]

Update!
After receiving the new axles from Andy R. they were very simple to install this past weekend. Some serious aches and pains the following day, but that was expected.
Thanks to everyone's comments.