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Old 10-06-2011, 12:00 PM   #1
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Bearings on '12 25FB FC

So on my walk thru the tech told me that I needed to have my bearings repacked every 2,500 miles. But my Newbies Guide to Airstreaming says that all 25' and larger have Never Lube bearings. So which is right?

Are they both right and I'm just confused?

Couldn't blame the tech for getting it wrong. He is after all responsible for countless different brands and setups. Still need to go through the mound of manuals and documentation that came with the trailer.

I'm working on building a maintenance schedule on my computer and this is a big question for me.
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Old 10-06-2011, 12:21 PM   #2
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Since at least '10 the 25' and longer trailers do not need the bearings greased. I read it in my owner's manual and confirmed it with AS customer service.
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:27 PM   #3
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Nev-R-Lube Wheel Bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by bike_addict View Post
So on my walk thru the tech told me that I needed to have my bearings repacked every 2,500 miles. But my Newbies Guide to Airstreaming says that all 25' and larger have Never Lube bearings. So which is right?

Are they both right and I'm just confused?

Couldn't blame the tech for getting it wrong. He is after all responsible for countless different brands and setups. Still need to go through the mound of manuals and documentation that came with the trailer.

I'm working on building a maintenance schedule on my computer and this is a big question for me.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
If you have Nev-R-Lube wheel bearings, then you should get around 100,000 miles on the bearings (and maybe more). This is per Dexter literature and contacts.

Do a search on this site for "Nev-R-Lube". You will find quite a bit of information on this type of wheel bearing.
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Old 10-06-2011, 06:01 PM   #4
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If you have packable bearings, which I don't think you do, the figure is more like 10,000 miles or annually. Your walk-through guy may have mis-spoken himself, and meant 12,500 miles, which is also an acceptable interval.
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:17 PM   #5
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so....where is tutorial

if one wanted to repack the wheel bearings under a shade tree????

what does one need and how would one accomplish this task???

thanks
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:23 PM   #6
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if one wanted to repack the wheel bearings under a shade tree????

what does one need and how would one accomplish this task???

thanks
A couple of 2 X 6's, water pump pliers, lug wrench, grease cleaning solvent, proper grease and 4 new grease seals, 4 new cotter pins, ball peen hammer.

Andy
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
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if one wanted to repack the wheel bearings under a shade tree????

what does one need and how would one accomplish this task???

thanks

How to Pack Trailer Bearings | eHow.com

Buy good quality grease. Have a good jack and stands. PLENTY of towels and rags.
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:48 PM   #8
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thanks,

but that does not seem to relate to the wheels on my 2008 25 fb airstream....

any other applicable tips...????
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:43 PM   #9
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10,000 miles or once a year sounds a little too often. I would go for 5 yrs 50,000 miles. Personally, I pack them when the brakes are shot since you have to take them out anyway. I have removed many a bearing and usually there is not enough grease in there. Usually the rear bearing is fine and the front bearing needs some lube. Maybe if you are using bear grease or left over bacon grease you should repack them at 10,000 miles. Modern moly based greases are pretty darn good. I use the Valvoline Moly Based Grease approved by Ford in all my wheel bearings. You can get a bearing packer for use with a standard grease gun that makes packing bearings easy. It looks like two cones. The main thing is to NOT GET ANY DIRT in the moving parts. Pretend you are in an operating room. If you drop a bearing in the sand you are going to have to solvent wash it and get ALL the grease off it. Then use compressed air to dry it. It is a messy job and you will go through a lot of paper towles. It is easy to pop the grease cup and give it a look. It is not hard to pull the outer bearing and see how it is doing. If it looks good then no worries. If you see rust or pitting on the rollers or races then you need to replace the bearing and the race. Always, ALways, Always replace bearing and races as a set. Even if your new hubs come with races they may not have the same angle as your old bearings and the two wear together. If they have never been packed since you had the trailer then repack them unless they are the never lube.

Usually you can pop the seal out with the bearing by hitting the inner race with a socket extension and hammer. Get all the old grease out of the hub with paper towels and don't leave much lint behind. Pack the rear bearing. Put some grease in the hole first about the size of a couple walnuts. Add some grease to the outside of the bearing and rub it in with your fingers. Put it in the hub and install the seal by gently hitting the edge with a hammer. Then use a flat head punch and fully seat the seal by hitting in a circular pattern. Don't get crazy and don't hit the rubber part. Yes they make special tools for this but you don't have one. Now put the hub on the axel and make sure the brakes are loose so you can do this. Now install the outer bearing same proceedure as with the rear bearing. Put the thrust washer on the shaft and alighn the tab in the washer with the slot in the axel spindle. Install the nut. Tighten the nut pretty darn tight while turning the wheel. Now back the nut off to the nearest alighnment of castle nut slot and hole in the axel. Put the split pin in the hole and bend the legs over in front of the spindle. Put a walnut size glob of grease in the cup and install the cup much like you did with the seal.

Perry
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:47 PM   #10
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but that does not seem to relate to the wheels on my 2008 25 fb airstream....

any other applicable tips...????
It all relates to your 2008, 25 footer.

The 2 X 6's are used to pull the tires up onto, for one of the axles (no jack needed).

The water pump pliers are used to remove the grease cap, the cotter pin and loosen the bearing reatiner nut..

The lug wrench is used to remove the tire/wheel assembly.

The solvent is used to clean the bearings so that they can be visually inspected.

The grease, is the new lube.

The grease seals, double lipped, are used instead of the original, now used seals. Always a good idea.

The cotter pins are replacments for the originals.

The ball peen hammer is used to tap the grease cap back on.

Now, one axle is done. Reverse the location of the 2 X 6's to the tires on the axle you just completed, and duplicate the above.

When all 4 wheels are back on the ground, have a nice "COOL ONE".

Andy
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Old 11-02-2011, 03:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
10,000 miles or once a year sounds a little too often. I would go for 5 yrs 50,000 miles. Personally, I pack them when the brakes are shot since you have to take them out anyway. I have removed many a bearing and usually there is not enough grease in there. Usually the rear bearing is fine and the front bearing needs some lube. Maybe if you are using bear grease or left over bacon grease you should repack them at 10,000 miles. Modern moly based greases are pretty darn good. I use the Valvoline Moly Based Grease approved by Ford in all my wheel bearings. You can get a bearing packer for use with a standard grease gun that makes packing bearings easy. It looks like two cones. The main thing is to NOT GET ANY DIRT in the moving parts. Pretend you are in an operating room. If you drop a bearing in the sand you are going to have to solvent wash it and get ALL the grease off it. Then use compressed air to dry it. It is a messy job and you will go through a lot of paper towles. It is easy to pop the grease cup and give it a look. It is not hard to pull the outer bearing and see how it is doing. If it looks good then no worries. If you see rust or pitting on the rollers or races then you need to replace the bearing and the race. Always, ALways, Always replace bearing and races as a set. Even if your new hubs come with races they may not have the same angle as your old bearings and the two wear together. If they have never been packed since you had the trailer then repack them unless they are the never lube.

Perry
Perry.

No, no, no.

Bearings must be packed every 10,000 miles, OR ONCE A YEAR.

The reasons being several.

Things happen.

The non use periods allow water to build up in the bearing cavitiy. If the bearings are not used for a while, that water can and does attack the bearings causing them to rust, as they will do.

The bearings on your tow vehicle are often used, therefore the water(moisture) is removed. That is NOT the same case for the trailer.

Airstream states once a year or every 10,000 miles.

I wish I could tell you how many owners call and need an axle, quickly, because a bearing failed and ruined the axle.

Why did the bearing fail?

By lack of proper care, due to the moisture, or reused grease seals, cheap grease, far more often than miles.

Be safe, do it right, and don't second guess history or physics. Second guessing usually produces a negative, especially when it comes to safety.

This isn't something new, it's been going on for my 46 years plus, and continues, sadly, today.

Andy
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:25 AM   #12
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it is sooooooo much fun

to stir the pot
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