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Old 01-10-2014, 09:21 AM   #1
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Bearing Race part numbers ????

I recently re-packed my wheel bearings on my '01 Excella 30'er. The trailer was 11 years old and I'm sure the bearings are original, made in China. I wish to replace them and wrote the part #'s down for the bearings. I cannot get the numbers off the races until they are removed. Can anyone out there in
Airstream land tell me the race part # so I can order new ones. NOW, nother question. My mechanical training tells me to replace the bearings and races as a matched set. In automotive applications is this overkill ???? I've been told that this rational applies to industrial high speed applications and that it is less critical in automotive applications.

Thanks all,
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Old 01-10-2014, 10:42 AM   #2
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Axxis shows:
3,500# axles with 12" brakes:
Outer bearing/cup. 44649/44610 seal 171255TC
Inner bearing/cup. 68149/68111

Etrailer shows the following:

For 10" brakes:
Kit (both inner and outer bearing ass'y) and seal. As BK3-100
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:19 PM   #3
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I worked in the bearing industry for thirty years. You'd be crazy to replace the cones (the easy but more expensive race) but the not the cups.
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:39 PM   #4
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Not sure just what you mean by the cups ?? The tapered bearing runs in a
pressed/ driven in race but where does a " CUP" fit ???? The bearing tech I was speaking with felt automotive use did not necessarily demand replacing the race with the bearings. He felt that industrial uses ( much higher RPM's ) did. So, in his opinion, if the race surface was not rusted or pitted do not replace. Is the terms race & cup interchangable ??
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcdenny View Post
I worked in the bearing industry for thirty years. You'd be crazy to replace the cones (the easy but more expensive race) but the not the cups.
Interesting comment.

Until we had the Airstream, I always understood that cups and cones had to be replaced as a set and that they were machined to very close tolerances and "matched"

But when I wanted to buy a set of bearings for one hub, just to carry in the trailer for emergencies, there were different part numbers for cups and cones so that you didn't need to replace both.

I'll have to admit I have changed an outer bearing cone on one wheel simply because when I washed and inspected the bearings during re-packing, the
rollers on that cone seemed to me to show a very very slight discoloration compared to all the other ones.

I will admit - and feeling a bit guilty! - that I didn't drive the cup out and replace it because it looked just fine! Probably I should have replaced it!

I have done another repack since though, and all appears well.

It does seem that it would be common sense to replace both though.

Brian.
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
Not sure just what you mean by the cups ?? The tapered bearing runs in a
pressed/ driven in race but where does a " CUP" fit ???? The bearing tech I was speaking with felt automotive use did not necessarily demand replacing the race with the bearings. He felt that industrial uses ( much higher RPM's ) did. So, in his opinion, if the race surface was not rusted or pitted do not replace. Is the terms race & cup interchangable ??
I believe the cup is another name for the outer race.

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Old 01-10-2014, 04:30 PM   #7
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The bearings and races (cups) should be replaced as a set. They can be mixed when new, but once run with a load on they seat, or wear in, as a matched set. After that they should never be mixed up when repacking. A new bearing should not be inserted into used races and vice versa.
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:44 PM   #8
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The inner part, the cone and roller assembly, is a different part number from the outer pressed in race, the cup.

They are not made in matched sets. Any cup can go with any cone, using correct part numbers of course. Probably not a good idea to mix used parts.

They are sometimes sold as "sets" as an ordering convenience, often including a seal.

Be sure to change the seal when changing bearings.

Bearings kept clean, lubricated and not run with too high a load or (especially) shock loads can last virtually forever. Problem is trailers have $1.00 seal keeping out water, salt and dirt and the grease can break down over time loosing its lubricity.

It could be worse, you could have a boat trailer where hot bearings are dunked under salt water.
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:07 PM   #9
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OK, I'm on the same page as all of you. But, it seems that when you buy a bearing it can be designed for multiple applications. The number on the bearing will tell us the dia. of the axle and the design of the bearing will establish the surface that it runs on or the race inner taper. Now the race can be designed for multiple uses. Not just for the hub of an Airstream trailer therefore the OD of the race is variable for different applications. Again, therefore since I'm not buying as a set they need a part number to match the diameter of the race to my hub.

A trailer supply house nearby sells them as a set but I think they are China bearings. I may take a close look at their set and perhaps I can record a part number from the race included. I just thunk of that so I shall take a look.
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:11 PM   #10
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Sets are just an ordering convenience. Each race will have its own part number on the face. All makers use the same part numbers.

If you want the best get Timken brand. Probably the Chinese ones are good enough.
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:47 PM   #11
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Many Timken bearings are also made in China.
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Old 01-10-2014, 10:57 PM   #12
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Hi Roger in NJ,
Like a few have stated, when a bearing is replaced, the race must also be replaced. Same if a race is replaced, the bearing must be replaced. Like a hub for example. New race=new bearing new bearing=new race They go together like Dezi and Lucy. Page 50 of the Dexter service manual makes it pretty clear.
http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/614960...ice_Manual.pdf
I install Timken or SKF bearings made in the USA or EU. I don't, and won't, install a Chinese anything if there is a USA or EU part.
I think you probably have Henschen axles. I don't have a Henschen parts manual. It should be the same as a 5,200# Dexter axle. The part numbers for that are inner 25520 outer 67010
Cheers!
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:05 AM   #13
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Thanx all. I glad to hear that all of us are on the same page. At least in theory and most in practice. I know what needs to be done here. I will just need to plan this job when I'm at home and have time to do the job without any pressure. I carry the stuff with me and could do it while on the road in a pinch.

I appreciate all of your inputs. Thanks again
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