Bearing Grease

[funkill]

Cripes, can't anything go smoothly?

I've spent about an hour trying to figure out which way to install my new double lip inner seals which are different in construction than the ones I removed from my new Henschen axles (single lip I guess)... I think I have it figured out by common sense ONLY - the open side of the seal must go towards the bearing, right?

Now I've prepared to pack the bearings and the grease I bought is black. Previously the grease I've used is red. The Coastal All Purpose Grease states, "Suitable for use in General Automotive Applications - chasis, water pumps, drum brake wheel bearings, etc". Do you think I'm using the right grease?

Sheesh - silly me, thought I could do this in a couple hours.

Laura

[SilverCottage]

I think you have the seals correct. For the grease, with many paper towels I completely clean all the old grease from the hub and shaft and replace it with Mobil 1 synthetic grease. A couple of $ more for a tub but 1 tub will give me enough to do all 4 wheels twice. If you can't find the tub then buy the cartridge and just squeeze it out.

Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease

[AirHeadsRus]

Hi Laura,
The grease you bought will be fine. Just pack it in good.
Good to hear from you,
Joe

[Splitrock]

I clean the bearings with solvent, blow them out but don't spin them, then install them in the bearing packer and pump in the bearing grease until the grease pushes through. There are online directions for installing seals.





LubriMatic Deluxe Bearing Packer LubriMatic Tools L70025

Video for installing seal. The rubber side faces up when installing.

Grease Seals - Double Lip - 10-19 (pair) TruRyde Seals for Trailer Bearings RG06-050

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[funkill]

Originally Posted by Splitrock

I clean the bearings with solvent, blow them out but don't spin them, then install them in the bearing packer and pump in the bearing grease until the grease pushes through. There are online directions for installing seals.





LubriMatic Deluxe Bearing Packer LubriMatic Tools L70025

Video for installing seal. The rubber side faces up when installing.

Grease Seals - Double Lip - 10-19 (pair) TruRyde Seals for Trailer Bearings RG06-050

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Both sides have rubber!!! But, if you look close, the rubber on one side is open to the inside. The other side is completely closed. I guess my original seals were actually Open Ended (cross section is a "C") whereas these are Close Ended (cross section is more like a "G" ???).

Thanks Joe - figures that I'd grab a tub that is black and threw me for a loop.

Laura

[funkill]

I found a tub of bearing grease for disc brakes in my bosses garage. I don't know if it's red or not but, should I open it and use it instead? Crap, I hate indecision...

Laura

[Jammer]

Laura

In reality any kind of grease will work. The bearings on an Airstream just don't ask that much of the grease. As others have noted the main thing is to get it packed in well. The cone-shaped bearing packing tools work OK (I used to have one) or you can just use your hands and work it in, wearing vinyl gloves or something if you have a thing about touching the stuff.

For general use I try to purchase transparent grease because with the black stuff it's such a problem with it staining clothing, especially when lubricating things like door latches where incidental contact is a problem. Other than that I don't think there's any material difference between one kind of grease and another, as far as any typical application like a trailer bearing is concerned.

[funkill]

Whew. 4 hrs to complete one wheel - mind you, only 1 hr of actual work - the rest researching *new* components. Thanks again.
Laura

[azflycaster]

I also like the Mobile 1 synthetic. It is red.

[Diesel1]

Back in the olden days when automobles had greasable wheel bearings we used the old black or brown grease and packed wheel bearings every 30,000 miles with no ill effects. Many cars went much longer.`Most people don't tow a travel trailer anywhere near that distance. So the hooplah about packing bearings yearly is just that. The synthedics (red) are great but unnessasary. Unless perhaps you have disc brakes & drive like a maniac. The yearly, synthedic grease thing is better suited to a boat trailer which see's a lot of water imersion.

[Luckyducks]

Hi Laura,

Here's a link to reference material which I used when I repacked the wheel bearings on my last trailer (new trailer has those nev-r-lube bearings). Click on the sublink of "Bryan and Dave's Greasy Adventure" for good information and steps to do the job. I assume you already have good reference material, but this stuff helped me a lot. I used the palm of my hand to get the new grease in the bearings like they show.

Maintaining your RV- Wheel Bearing Maintenance

I hope all is well out west. Missed you at the last Canopener Rally.

Russ

[Excella CM]

One advantage to cleaning out the old grease before repacking is that the new and the old grease cannot interact chemically. This is not a big or common problem , but can arise when greases with different metallic bases are mixed. Grease is basically a soap (so it stays put) made with oil and a base, usually sodium or lithium. If a sodium and a lithium grease are mixed, the resultant combination can become runny and leak out. Not the end of the world, but it can make a mess. If you know what grease is in the bearing (for example if you packed it last time)then you can just wipe out the old and add the new with no problems.

[Jammer]

I think that my local NAPA sold their last tub of sodium chassis grease in, oh, 1926 or so.

[billiards]

excella ...you have it correct.....having been in the lubrication bussiness for 30 years i feel i need to contribute when i feel qualified.....which is not very often....black grease typically contains molley...which is for sliding metals...(5 wheel on a semi would be an application)....the lith soap is a general grease used and proven for years.....ployurea is usually red developed for high temperatures as created by disk brakes....excella nailled it on his post, dont mix ployurea with soap grease ..they do not like each other, it will soon cake up, this is a very basic post for applications, but the most important thing is: do not mix grease, look at the label, completely clean dry and replace....i hope i am not to late for you on this post. jack

[funkill]

Originally Posted by billiards

excella ...you have it correct.....having been in the lubrication bussiness for 30 years i feel i need to contribute when i feel qualified.....which is not very often....black grease typically contains molley...which is for sliding metals...(5 wheel on a semi would be an application)....the lith soap is a general grease used and proven for years.....ployurea is usually red developed for high temperatures as created by disk brakes....excella nailled it on his post, dont mix ployurea with soap grease ..they do not like each other, it will soon cake up, this is a very basic post for applications, but the most important thing is: do not mix grease, look at the label, completely clean dry and replace....i hope i am not to late for you on this post. jack

So, to be clear... I did remove the red grease (brake cleaner, blow out w/low pressure - not rotating bearings, wash w/soft brush in warm soapy water, rinse in warm water, blow out again w/low pressure, dry in sun for about an hour) then repacked with the black grease.

Is everything okay? If not, what do you suggest now? I presume that my fairly thorough cleaning prevented "mixing" of the two greases... right?

Laura