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Old 03-03-2003, 10:12 AM   #15
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There is a one word answer for the 2600 wheels.

SAFETY

It's a matter of where you want to be with safety.
1. Over the edge.
2. On the edge.
3. Away from the edge.

Road impacts do nasty things to underrated wheels.

Go to our web site


Click on articles. Check out the article on junk yard wheels.

Wheels with no reserve can and do end up the same way.

Tires don't bend, they flex. The underrated steel wheel can bend, and then the fun begins.

Think of your family and the other innocent people that could be harmed. For the few extra bucks, it's not worth the gamble.


Andy
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Old 03-03-2003, 11:48 AM   #16
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OutlawII

The bolt pattern is a 6-hole (5.5 diagonal pattern), the wheel size is 15x7, the tire size is 7.00-15, load range C.
I do not know for sure what the offset is, but I believe we ordered a 0 or -3/4 offset, if I remember right. The Original wheels were a -3/4, if I remember right.
I dragged the A/S to my tire dealer in Orange, CA, Just Tires, ( Bill) and they special ordered these for me, with the promise to return them if they could not make a good and safe fit. They would have ordered other sizes and offsets for me until the fit was perfect, but they succeeded with the first try.
They also got the right lug nuts and center caps.
As far as towing and handling, there seems to be absolutely no difference.
A strange thing: The weight rating was stamped on the inside of the wheel. It said this: Load rating 2000lbs ( 2450.00lbs trailer)
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Old 03-03-2003, 12:04 PM   #17
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UWE, Did you mount the Outlaws on your 25'? Road ready my 23' would be not much more that 4,500 LBs. Even with the lower 2,000 LB rating of the wheels one would think there would be enough head room to be safe. Not sure, but these Outlaws sure do look good.
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Old 03-03-2003, 12:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by Inland RV Center, In
There is a one word answer for the 2600 wheels.

SAFETY

It's a matter of where you want to be with safety.
1. Over the edge.
2. On the edge.
3. Away from the edge.

Road impacts do nasty things to underrated wheels.

Go to our web site


Click on articles. Check out the article on junk yard wheels.

Wheels with no reserve can and do end up the same way.

Tires don't bend, they flex. The underrated steel wheel can bend, and then the fun begins.

Think of your family and the other innocent people that could be harmed. For the few extra bucks, it's not worth the gamble.


Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
airstreamcandy.com
Please don't take offense to this but I'm not convinced that the failure of that rim was the rims fault as much as it was a installer fault. That rim appears to be a 60's Chevy truck wheel. Should have been rated about 2500lb. It's looks like the same rims that were on my 70 Suburban project.

What makes me wonder if this was more of an installation error is the fact that one of the lugs on that hub is bent over. This indicated loose lug nuts. That would allow the rim to wobble and be dragged sideways. Another indication is one hole on the rim is not and ripped free like the other 5. The hole is elongated by the rim wobbling. Old studs probably did't let the nuts spin free like new rust free studs but it did let them loosen. The three remaining studs are proably chewed up pretty good around the base as a result.

The other possibility is the holes had already been damaged and elongated from overtightening. I personnaly do not like seeing rims torqued with a impact wrench. A good impact wrench in a careless persons hands (aka read as 90% of the idiots at the tire stores) hands is the worst thing you can do to your rims. Snugging the rims up on a low setting with a impact is fine but the final torque should be with a torque wrench to the wheel studs proper torque rating and no more. Anybody that has ever had to jump on a lugh wrench to get the lugs off is a victim of over tightend lugs. The average adult male should have no problem exerting 120lb of torque on a standard 14 inch long lug wrench.

My other observation is stud failure is often cause by improper installation. Studs should NEVER be drawn in by the lug. The torque rating is about 80-110lb depending on the stud diameter. To draw a stud in requres a couple hundred lbft of torque. I know because I tested this theory after I went to 4 shops including a Midas brake, Pepboys, Good year and Firestone shops to have studs PRESSED in when I needed to replace rotors when I was servicing the brakes on my truck. All four places said they "didn't have presses or they were broken but they would be happy to take an impact wrench and draw them in." I walked when I heard this. I have a healthy impact and I had to set it on 4 to get the stud to seat. That's good for about 300lbft of torque in forward. That is the torque it requres to rotate the nut. The actuall pull on the stud would equate to several thousand pounds of force inlin to the stud. You do this and your overstressing the stud and creating hairline cracks and stress fractures.

To further explore my theory the drum appears much newer then I would think a 1969 drum would look. There is almost no rust. The wheel mating suface has just a hint of surface rust. That drum had recently been replaced and that means the studs were recently installed. Look at how rusty those studs are. There is no way they are the same age as the drum.

Also the bluing indicates that the rim was bent back and forth many times. This was not a "POW" it failed. This was a thing that gradually bacame worse as they traveled down the road. Had that wheel been on the tow vehicle they would have felt and heard it long before it got to the point of catastrophic failure like it was shown. The fact that it was somewhat isolated from the tow vehicle they simply did not know it was failing. I bet the fenderwell was pretty beat up as well.

Now in no way do I want to down play the importance of having the properly rated rims and tires. I applaude you for being so concerned with getting your customers the correct information and parts for their vehicles. You should always use a rim that is properly rated and if there is any doubt don't use it. I agree with you 100% on that.

I just don't agree it failed due to the weight rating of the rim. I think there was more human error to this. I do however feel it's a good idea to carefully inspect the rims and replace them if there is any doubt. I don't like those style rivited rims at all and feel they should be replaced. The age simply says there is an unknown factor to the condition of the rivits holding the centers to the outer rim. I have run accross those rims broken at the rivits in the junkyards before
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Old 03-03-2003, 07:49 PM   #19
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I just took a look at Andy's junkyard wheel pic set. Wow - this wheel looks identical to the ones I took off my trailer, just went and checked. Same rivets, same vent slots, same clips, same everything. I am a bit puzzled now.
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Old 03-05-2003, 11:43 AM   #20
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Load rating

Is the load rating #2000 or #2450 in this application for the Outlaws? Thanks
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Old 03-05-2003, 12:00 PM   #21
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It's both. It says 2000lbs, and ( trailer 2450lbs)
So, they rate their wheels separate, I guess.
I went back to look if they have a spare wheel, and the one they had on display had no rating at all stamped in it. That one was a 5-lug.
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Old 03-05-2003, 12:32 PM   #22
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Originally posted by uwe
It's both. It says 2000lbs, and ( trailer 2450lbs)
So, they rate their wheels separate, I guess.
I went back to look if they have a spare wheel, and the one they had on display had no rating at all stamped in it. That one was a 5-lug.
Yeah I could see a seperate rating for trailer. On the front of a car your dealing with the force of the turning the vehicle causes side loading that on a trailer it just wouldnt see unless that trailer was going sideways (been there done that and if it never happens again I'll be a happy camper wasn't the A/s it was a small cargo trailer I have).
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