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11-15-2014, 08:15 AM
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#801
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Rivet Master
2015 25' FB Eddie Bauer
2013 25' FB Eddie Bauer
2012 20' Flying Cloud
Small Town
, *** Big Sky Country ***Western Montana
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony
Most of the stuff on Airforums is pertinent/relevant. Hardly anything on Spacebook is.
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Who are you calling relevant ...pertinent maybe, but relevant ... not to be anti social in this media event - but to be relevant, I will post again for the third time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mefly2
Good read ... what about torque variation when wiping dust off the threads (using an oily rag)- is that still considered dry torque value - as I asked before?
And, what is the variation in torque values if measured cold (as in it is freezing outside right now) vs checking in the summer at 75+ degrees F.?
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As I said, torque values vary widely from completely "dry" / new or cleaned threads vs oxidized / lubricated threads ... as well as heated or cooled mating surfaces of the threads; hence the reason why we use penetrating oil (not on wheel studs) or heat to break loose stubborn bolts / nuts. Do any of you sage old social wizards know the answer to my above question???
__________________
2015 25' Eddie Bauer Int'l FBQ / 2023 Ford Lightning ER
2022 Ford F350 6.2 V-8; equalizer hitch + Shocker air hitch
Honda Eu3200; AIR# 44105; formerly WBCCI 2015.1
Terminal Aluminitis; 2-people w/ 3+ dogs
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11-15-2014, 09:47 AM
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#802
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mefly2
Who are you calling relevant ...pertinent maybe, but relevant ... not to be anti social in this media event - but to be relevant, I will post again for the third time.
As I said, torque values vary widely from completely "dry" / new or cleaned threads vs oxidized / lubricated threads ... as well as heated or cooled mating surfaces of the threads; hence the reason why we use penetrating oil (not on wheel studs) or heat to break loose stubborn bolts / nuts. Do any of you sage old social wizards know the answer to my above question???
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I thought your question was rhetorical.
The answer is:
it depends on the humidity, day of the week, and whether or not you will be using nitrogen in your tires. (just saying you will use nitrogen adds 134.31 inch ounces(troy) to the necessary torque).
That is because just saying you put nitrogen in your tires does as much practical good as actually doing it.
Ken
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11-15-2014, 10:14 AM
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#803
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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There is one facet to the torque issue that hasn't been touched on. The thing that damages the wheel is the amount of force with which the lug nut is pressing down on the wheel. This amount of force is dependent on the position of the nut on the bolt, not the force that is required to put the nut in that position(torque). The force required to place the nut in the desired position is dependent on many variables. However it is the force that we measure. This further illustrates the point that the values that anyone quotes are simply a starting point that must be frequently checked and adjusted as necessary. In addition there is usually (in a properly maintained system) a wide range between the minimum torque required to keep the wheels on the vehicle and maximum torque before damage is done.
The reason so many different values are being quoted is that they all lie withing the range of acceptable ones. It is not possible to pick one best value for all conditions.
Ken
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11-15-2014, 10:45 AM
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#804
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Rivet Master
2009 23' FB Flying Cloud
Canmore
, Alberta
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,762
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16" wheels/LT tires
Perhaps an over-complication? Once one shape of lug nut will fit the lug seat on the wheel correctly, and this is what the torque specs will be for.
Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
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11-15-2014, 11:24 AM
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#805
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Rivet Master
2009 23' FB Flying Cloud
Canmore
, Alberta
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,762
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Once = Only
Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
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11-16-2014, 06:40 PM
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#806
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,378
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Hi, just use what I used to call Chevrolet Torque; Tighten until they snap and back off a quarter turn.
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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11-17-2014, 01:29 PM
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#807
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
Hi, just use what I used to call Chevrolet Torque; Tighten until they snap and back off a quarter turn.
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By snap, do mean the bolts break?
If you mean the snap noise a preset torque wrench makes when it reaches the setting, that's what I do, except I don't back it off. Have I been living on the edge all this time?
Ken
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11-17-2014, 08:28 PM
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#808
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ag&Au
By snap, do mean the bolts break?
If you mean the snap noise a preset torque wrench makes when it reaches the setting, that's what I do, except I don't back it off. Have I been living on the edge all this time?
Ken
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Hi, yes Ken; At the time Chevy used smaller bolts for everything than were used by Ford. It was very common to see broken carburetor studs and lug studs Etc. on Chevys back then. They were usually so tight that they would break while trying to loosen them. Hence the phrase, "Tighten them until they snap and back off a quarter turn."
[Chevrolet Torque]
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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11-25-2014, 10:41 AM
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#809
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Master of Universe
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,711
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Full disclosure—Bob worked for a Ford dealer in a past life.
TinTin—interesting point about the shape of lug nuts and the seat in the wheel. But I'm not sure it isn't "conventional wisdom". It seems like it could be true, but is there any proof of that? As long as the nut holds the wheel securely, seems like the torque could be the same. I realize some lug nuts fit part way into the hole and others have a lip that presses on the wheel, not inside the hole. Assuming that the nut and lug threads engage as much, torque should not change.
Gene
__________________
Gene
The Airstream is sold; a 2016 Nash 24M replaced it.
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11-25-2014, 02:48 PM
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#810
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Full Time Adventurer
2007 27' International CCD FB
Nomadic
, USA
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,748
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I saw awhile ago Switz mention that he ran Michelin LTX M/S2 - p235 75R15 XL on his 25fter because the GVWR was 7300lbs and that by the numbers 2183 per tire (not derated) they where more than adequate and not overkill as he mentioned he wouldn't run put 16's on the 25fter.
We have a 27fter GVWR 7500lbs and I keep wondering while this debate rages why I would need more weight rating than the 8732lbs of rating I'd have with just the 15's on my existing rims and some centramatics?
It would certainly be more cost effective.
I'm all over on making my mind up about this.
PS: I totally get stiffer side walls. I'm an offroader after all.
__________________
Family of 5 exploring the USA with a Ram Power Wagon & Airstream in tow.
OUR BLOG | INSTAGRAM
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11-25-2014, 03:22 PM
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#811
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Rivet Master
1987 32' Excella
Nepean
, Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoldAdventure
I saw awhile ago Switz mention that he ran Michelin LTX M/S2 - p235 75R15 XL on his 25fter because the GVWR was 7300lbs and that by the numbers 2183 per tire (not derated) they where more than adequate and not overkill as he mentioned he wouldn't run put 16's on the 25fter.
We have a 27fter GVWR 7500lbs and I keep wondering while this debate rages why I would need more weight rating than the 8732lbs of rating I'd have with just the 15's on my existing rims and some centramatics?
It would certainly be more cost effective.
I'm all over on making my mind up about this.
PS: I totally get stiffer side walls. I'm an offroader after all.
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Travel isn't always ideal, so having a larger margin for safety isn't necessarily more costly once you factor in the probability of a tire failure. This doesn't mean that you WILL have a failure, it just means that there is a percentage of probability of one occurring.
We have a 32-ft Excella and in the 3+ years we've had it I have had several tire failures. I never chintz-ed on tires, so the issue became one of type, namely ST vs LT tires. Just to let you know, the cost of a blowout is not cheap, as there is usually some damage to the trailer; in my case it was just some of the sheet metal in the wheel well and the trim.
The GVWR of my trailer was 8,000 lbs (2 x 4,000-lb axles). When the time came this summer to change the axles, I opted for 4,500 lb ones, thereby increasing the capacity (GVWR) to 9,000 lbs - I did this as a margin for safety. At the same time I changed over to 16-inch wheels and Michelin LTX225/75R16(E) tires - that's load range E with a tire pressure of 80-psi.
This winter while I am in Arizona, I'm going to put my rig through the SmartWeigh program. See SmartWeigh_Default If there is any deficiency in my setup, I want to find it and correct it.
__________________
VE3JDZ
AIR 12148
1987 Excella 32-foot
1999 Dodge Ram 2500HD Diesel
WBCCI 8080
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11-25-2014, 03:32 PM
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#812
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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I'm not going to try to figure out all the numbers you guys are using. However just want to be sure you know that a user on these forums "Capriracer" who is a tire engineer and seems to know what he is talking about has said that LT tires used in a trailer application should have their load ratings decreased by 15%. Perhaps that is in the numbers you are using. In that case never mind?
Ken
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11-25-2014, 06:09 PM
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#813
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Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
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Bold - you'd have 7,936 with those Michelins because using a P rated tire on a trailer requires you to derate the load capacity by 10%.
I use them on my 27FB which loaded for camping on the scales sees 5800# on the trailer axles. That's literally more than a ton of headroom on the de-rated capacity of the tires.
Good luck!
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11-26-2014, 05:49 AM
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#814
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
2019 27' Tommy Bahama
London
, Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,347
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We have installed the 15" Michelins on hundreds of Airstreams with virtually zero failures. Many of these are 30' models including older Classics with axle weights of 7500 pounds. Even at those weight ranges the tires run cool and are completely reliable.
The big advantage with them is that they are much easier on the Airstream and the items you carry inside it.
Andrew T
__________________
Andrew Thomson London, Ontario
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions." Tex Johnston, Boeing 707 test pilot
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11-26-2014, 05:56 AM
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#815
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4 Rivet Member
2018 30' Flying Cloud
South Hero
, Vermont
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 259
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Andrew, Which specific Michelin tires would you install on a 2004 25' Safari SS? Thanks for you reply.
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11-26-2014, 06:43 AM
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#816
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CapriRacer
I'm in the
, US
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ag&Au
I'm not going to try to figure out all the numbers you guys are using. However just want to be sure you know that a user on these forums "CapriRacer" who is a tire engineer and seems to know what he is talking about has said that LT tires used in a trailer application should have their load ratings decreased by 15%. Perhaps that is in the numbers you are using. In that case never mind?
Ken
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Ah ..... Mmmm ..... Not exactly.
I think tires should never be loaded to more than 85% of their rated capacity (which includes the adjustment if you are using a lower inflation pressure.)
This applies to ALL tires, not just LT tires.
Also, those who are doing the 10% reduction in P type tires should be aware that the 15% mentioned above is NOT included in that 10% - you need to do both.
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11-26-2014, 08:03 AM
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#817
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3 Rivet Member
2014 30' International
DFW Airport
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 146
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On the issue of load rating vs wheel size: I think the thread has moved a little off center over it 59 odd pages. The issue is not whether 15" wheels and tires can carry the load per the tire specs. Rather that the 15" tire production is almost universally made in China and because they are "trailer" tires, are not built to any standard. Yes there are numbers and letters on the sidewalls but there is significant doubt as to whether any of those numbers are true or accurate. Even rolling circumference differs between manufacturers. Whereas the 16" light truck tires at the D or E load ratings are subject to to the risk/reward of the wider consumer market of truck owners and tend (but not always as we were taught by Michelin) to be more robust, reliable and able to meet an operating environment at 80% of capacity on a predictable basis. This has been my experience (3 years) and seemingly that of other A/S owners.
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11-26-2014, 09:22 AM
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#818
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Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapriRacer
Ah ..... Mmmm ..... Not exactly.
I think tires should never be loaded to more than 85% of their rated capacity (which includes the adjustment if you are using a lower inflation pressure.)
This applies to ALL tires, not just LT tires.
Also, those who are doing the 10% reduction in P type tires should be aware that the 15% mentioned above is NOT included in that 10% - you need to do both.
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OK, obviously you know what you are saying better than I do, but now I am confused.
Are you saying ALL tires, even when used in their intended service should never be loaded more than (their rated load-15%)? If that is the case why don't they publish the rated loads as 15% less, and eliminate the confusion? If that's not what you are saying, please clarify in what situations you recommend the 15% reduction. I though that was correction for P and LT tires on a trailer. Apparently that is what the 10% is. Correct?
I have spent my entire life with the belief that any system is designed with a safety margin above the max specs if used as intended. (I even applied this belief to my diapers when I was a baby) And if used as intended, the max specs are a safe and intended use. Is my bubble (or diaper) burst?
Ken
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11-26-2014, 09:42 AM
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#819
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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Noting that it is tire engineers who developed the Good Year Marathon we love so dearly, I am am skeptical of their advice.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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11-26-2014, 09:56 AM
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#820
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Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapriRacer
Ah ..... Mmmm ..... Not exactly.
I think tires should never be loaded to more than 85% of their rated capacity (which includes the adjustment if you are using a lower inflation pressure.)
This applies to ALL tires, not
Also, those who are doing the 10% reduction in P type tires should be aware that the 15% mentioned above is NOT included in that 10% - you need to do both.
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Yes, I remember that, Capri. 85% of the derated capacity is 6745 for the set of 4 and I'm still almost 1000# under that limit according to scale tickets. I inflate to 50 PSI cold and my internal TPMS sensors tell me I never exceed about 30 degree F temp rise or 10% (really closer to 5-6%) pressure rise while traveling.
I almost switched out to a D-rated Goodyear Cargo LT (I want to say G26 or something like that?) but the profile would have dropped the trailer more than an inch and I didn't want to futz with the level hitch alignment I've got now. I may go that route in the future but for now am very happy with the Michelins.
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