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Old 07-08-2013, 05:06 PM   #505
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was below my GVW and GCVW I was over the axle load limit as imposed by the rear tires because of the effect of a 1400 lb hitch weight.

A gotcha thats only solved with 17.5 or 19.5 wheels G rated tires
How did you measure the 1400 lb hitch weight? Our 30' Flying cloud is right at 800 lb based on CAT scales and double checked with a friends Sherline scale at a rally sitting in a campground with full propane, upgraded batteries and full water tank. Airstream specifications have you at 880, with propane, without options.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:33 AM   #506
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The delta is between STP at 68 deg and your starting temp at say 100 - already 30 degrees or very nearly a 6 psi plus needed for your tire. Meaning when you pull out and assuming E LR, you should be at 85 psi minimum. On my Gs I would be at 115 psi.

And while I agree that all we can do is buy the best and hope for the rest, my concern is there is no real way to know what is best. The manufacturers tell us nothing about how they qualify their tires for the load ratings and whether the rating is for sustained use in US highway conditions in all weathers or whether they are ideal settings on a constantly loaded roller in a factory.

And contrary to what has been written here, the Michelin and GY factories I visited did not test in 100 deg ambients. It was room temp (working Lab) on a smooth roller with no flex on the sidewalls turning at 75 mph. Thats where the so called safety margin comes from being 10 mph plus to the advised maximum speed. However add the real world of constant flex, higher ambient, lower unadjusted initial inflation, road debris, occasional over loading because of front to rear or left to right axle loads and surface temps that reach above 150 - now how long should the tire last. no one knows. Its a gamble that we play with in our tow vehicles using trial and error. That is until their is sufficient systemic proven failures with sufficient damage or injury to warrant the attention of the plaintiff's bar, we take it on the wallet.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:36 AM   #507
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How did you measure the 1400 lb hitch weight? Our 30' Flying cloud is right at 800 lb based on CAT scales and double checked with a friends Sherline scale at a rally sitting in a campground with full propane, upgraded batteries and full water tank. Airstream specifications have you at 880, with propane, without options.
I bought a scale and weighed it. I also have a scooter garage built into the front of my AS where I store a couple of Hondas. Also makes for a steadier tow than putting them at the rear where it would have messed up the bathroom plumbing of my International.
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:21 AM   #508
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I bought a scale and weighed it. I also have a scooter garage built into the front of my AS where I store a couple of Hondas. Also makes for a steadier tow than putting them at the rear where it would have messed up the bathroom plumbing of my International.
Now it all adds up! Thanks, and I'm sure I'm not the only one that would love to see photos of the garage mod.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:05 AM   #509
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.........And contrary to what has been written here, the Michelin and GY factories I visited did not test in 100 deg ambients. It was room temp (working Lab) on a smooth roller with no flex on the sidewalls turning at 75 mph.......
Be aware that many places have their own test procedures that differ from the DOT test procedure. NHTSA takes that into account when (and if) they review the test data. If the testing is different, then a correlation has to be demonstrated.

So it shouldn't be a surprise that some folks test at room temperature. They may claim they are doing DOT compliance testing - and in a manner of speaking they are.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:16 AM   #510
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Rue - like most government regs, DOT compliance is hardly more than a seal of approval. Even the China Bombs claim DOT approval on the sidewalls. Who knows what that means: the tire is mostly round !
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:57 PM   #511
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Yes, it is easy to overthink this. My question about going from 40˚ to 90's in one day of driving was to show there are situations where a simple rule doesn't apply and there's no reason to worry.

One time that happened, I started in northeast Montana and then drove west and south and my TPMS started screaming at me (feels like screaming after a while) and the red light kept flashing. So I stopped and let some air out; solved. If I had started out the day at 55˚, probably I would have had no alerts and no problem. So letting out 3 or 4 psi is equivalent (roughly) to starting out at higher ambient temps.

I too have an infrared temperature gauge. While it is fun to measure the temperature of my arm, my knee, the A/C vents, my wife's earlobe, and thus is worth buying, I never bother to measure tire or wheel bearing temp unless something else indicates a problem worth looking into. The TPMS system gives me enough info (including tire temp) almost all the time.

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Old 07-11-2013, 11:23 AM   #512
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I installed Centramatics and the 15" Michelins on the 25FB International after getting it home. That trailer has a GVW of 7,300 pounds and a tongue weight loaded of 1,175 pounds. That means the trailer axles are supporting about 6,125 pounds. The 10% derated capacity of the four 15" Michelin LTX (P) 235/75R15 XL tires at 50psi is 7,932 pounds which is a substantial safety margin exceeding 25%.

We have now ordered a 2014 27FB Classic which has a GVW of 9,000 pounds and perhaps will have a 1,100 pound tongue weight. For conversation purposes, the axles would be supporting about 7,900 pounds. Thus the 15" Michelins would have no safety margin if the trailer were fully loaded.

That means that I will order five Michelin LT 225/75R16RE M/S2 tires with SenDel T03-66655T wheels just like Airstream will install on the Eddie Bauer models or install on a trailer at the factory. The four 16" Michelin tires have a load capacity of 10,720 pounds at 80psi. That means we have a load safety factor exceeding 35%.

I selected the M/S2 over the XPS Rib for the wet braking characteristics and the Green X rating on the tire.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:01 PM   #513
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Good choice switz. We've had the Michelins M+S (2 wasn't yet available) for 30,000 miles and they ride and wear great. They don't lose air like Marathons. The biggest problem is wearing them out before it is time to change them.

While a lot of people say tires are ready to be changed after 5 years, Michelin says a much longer period is quite possible: http://www.michelinman.com/mediabin/...l_Bulletin.pdf

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Old 07-11-2013, 02:19 PM   #514
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:06 PM   #515
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While a lot of people say tires are ready to be changed after 5 years, Michelin says a much longer period is quite possible: http://www.michelinman.com/mediabin/...l_Bulletin.pdf
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When I had my tires mounted, the tire shop gave me a card that Michelin provides that has a series of black to gray squares. The square that matches the tire gives an estimate of the time left before the tire should be replaced.

As my trailer is in covered storage, I find very little color change in the sidewalls over time. The Carlisle E tires I took off look like new tires, but good riddance. Carlisle E tires destroyed the sides of three of my Airstream acquaintances. The tread separated without the tires losing air. The loose tread wiped out the wheel well and the plumbing. My old tires/wheels will soon appear on a friend's utility trailer.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:24 PM   #516
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Lug bolt problem

When I replaced the rear curbside wheel, I found it difficult to get one of the lug nuts off and a second nut was a bit cranky. This was strange, because the last time that wheel was off was when a very competent Airstream mechanic packed my bearings about a year ago while I watched. I carry my own torque stick and torque wrench, so the nuts have never been overtightened.

When I replaced the lug nuts, one would not go on at all, while the other went on hard. I checked the worst bolt end with a magnifier and found what looked for all the world like a splatter of weld in the threads. I tried with a Dremel tool and thread chaser to clean up the bolt, but with no success. I think the glob was material from the threads that had been dragged to that point and bonded to the bolt.

Off came the wheel and disc brake hub. I pounded out one lug bolt and took it to A-Line to buy 6 like it. I didn't have a part number, but they gave me a good match that was, perhaps, 1/32" longer. I also put on new lug nuts. Everything is back together again tonight after most of an hour working in the shade at 102 degrees.

Folks with Kodiak disc brakes might like to write down the lug bolt part number for reference. It is "DOR 610-394 wheel bolt 1/2-20x1-29"
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:32 PM   #517
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By the way, in reference to my last post above. I have always torqued my wheel lugs on this trailer to 85 foot pounds as specified by ALCOA for my old wheels. I have an 85 foot pound torque stick. I also have a 100 foot pound maximum torque wrench which has been set to 85 fp each time I mount a wheel. I check torque before every trip of any distance. The mechanic who packed my bearings is well aware of the torque spec and I was standing there when he did the work.

That leaves me puzzled as to why those two lugs galled when the remaining 4 were just fine.

There is no published spec for my new Sendel wheels. I torqued them to 90 fp.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:56 PM   #518
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John,
I always like to take an acid brush and brush some graphite-based anti-seize compound on lug nuts. As a matter of fact, I use the stuff on any engine or drive train assembly unless it is something that should have thread locking compound or a Teflon sealant (like engine head). Anything related to a marine engine (outboard or inboard) should have the anti-seize too.

You don't have to put it on the lug nuts every time, but every third time, wouldn't hurt. This will eliminate galling, rusting, seizing, etc. It will also ensure a more correct torque value.

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