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Old 03-28-2013, 07:11 PM   #477
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Thanks Jack,
I have found a set of wheels I like only they are the 7" and don't come in the 6".
I'm trying to figure out if going that route changes the profile of the tire on the wheel very much. I know the tires I'm considering will work on either wheel size according to the tire spec. sheets. So safety is not the issue, but maybe room is?
I called a local tire shop and the guy just laughed and said it will make no difference. But if I order wheels from CA and have to ship them back cause I over looked something it will cost some extra $$.
I'm trying to avoid that possibility. Just thought that maybe someone has done it. But if not, I'll have to settle on the 6" in a different style.
I've seen posts where people were thinking of the 7" but as far as I know they never come back and post the results.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:12 PM   #478
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Mine are 16X7, bought them at Shadow Trailers on line out of California....low bidder. They fit my trailer fine.

Thanks Steve,
You and I were typing at the same time, I see.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:40 PM   #479
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Wow. Thanks for all the info. I have just ordered two sets of tires one for my tv, and tt. I just bought this trailer and I'm the 3rd owner. The PO had put LT245/75 r16's load range E on it. They are dry rotting, so I've been doing a bunch of research here. Between having p rated tires on the t.v. and no sway bar attachments the rig swayed way too much above 65, but was fine at 63 until an18wheeler passed . I have gotten a new wd hitch with a sway bar and am changing out all the tires. I stayed with an lt tire because of all the complaints with the g.y.m.'s, but scaled down closer to the original size, 7.00-15 load c to lt 225/75 r16. Though after being driven 100 hwy. miles, the old trailer tires weren't even warm. Also, I finally got why "P" tire load ratings are not equal to LT load ratings. Thank you tire rack. The increased height of the center of gravity on trucks decrease the load capacities of P tires by about 10%. So I've "upgraded" to lt 245/75 r16 load E. I hope this minimize my white knuckle driving across the plains and up the mountains this summer.
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:35 AM   #480
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Switch to 16" tires ...

After much advice on Air Forums, I am thankful for making the switch to 16-inch Michelin light truck tires. So, thank you all for your wonderful advice, which helped make my trip home to Alaska a safe and memorable one! Click image for larger version

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Old 06-23-2013, 10:58 PM   #481
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borealis2013,
I'm glad that you made it back home safe and sound! I believe that for anyone traveling much more than a short distance over decent roads, the only way to go is with LT tires and they are only available in 16" versions for all practical purposes.

I assume that your web name/handle is related to the northern lights, is that correct?

Steve
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:10 AM   #482
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Thank you, Steve! Yes, I am now a believer of 16" LT tires, which in my opinion as well as all those who weighed in on this forum, is the safest way to go! In terms of the word "borealis," it means "of or relating to the north." Thus aurora borealis means the northern lights as opposed to the southern lights, aurora australis. Come north sometime, and explore Alaska!! Be well!
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:49 AM   #483
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Willapus,

I had the exact same experiences with my original 15" tires and original wheels but that all but disappeared with the E range 16" change over I had read about on this thread. Replacing them made the side by side almost non existant. About every tenth truck now I get a faint sensation of side movement but maybe 5% of what I got from every 18 that passed me in 2010 on our first trip.


On my 76 Sovereign I had to replace the axles I found my road side wheels set much closer to the wheel well than the curb side and I had already replaced my wheels with Tredit wheels:

Modular

They are 6" wide and steel. Thusly when I replaced the axles I ordered them so they would be a little bit wider and the left one will be more centered in wheel well.

My axles were worn out and had taken a permanent set which made them ride extremely rough and I replaced them with 5200 lb (factory was 3500lb) and now the ride is much smoother.

A couple weeks ago I hooked up to her, checked the air and we were going to run down to Charleston, SC for a check ride before we hit the road to Ohio in August. Prior to that time every time I opened the door if I left anything on the table it would be on the floor. Just getting off the farm is not smooth at all. I pulled it about 20 miles on back roads etc and got back and pulled it back in the yard and I opened the door and to my surprise there was still stuff on the table I had forgot to remove. That had never happened before.

Well we never took the ride to Charleston as wife came down with bronchitus and has taken three rounds of antibiotics and can't shake it now is on steroids and doing better. I put the AS back under the shed in the shade and put that trip on the back burner.

I got rear ended in town last Sunday (driving wife's Durango) and when struck I was knocked cold, seat back collapsed and I woke up coming out of seat belt when I slid up the seat after the impact. Now I have three portruding discs, arm/hand tingles, and all the associated pain with whip lash along with a CT scan, MRI for openers and heading for another MRI this morning on my shoulder so it doesn't look like we are going to Ohio in August.

I will pass another tip on to you. I have a friend in Canada whose full time job was coming into the states and hooking up to travel trailers and taking them back to Canada (before the economy tanked) and he drove 150K a year driving a Dodge diesel dually.

He advised me to set road speed at 60 and stay there because if something starts at the higher speeds the towed vehicle is going to become a hazard and put you out of control quickly. He said he knew other transporters that tried to stay with the 18 wheelers and run the speed limit and they lost control and rolled everything.

I have followed that advice since 2010 and found it to be sound. I rarely pass anyone but then again I have never had any control issues either.

Another trick a mechanic buddy let me in on is to get a Infra Red Thermometer and every 100 miles get out and run around and check the tire temps quickly. Prior to that I had used my hand to check tire temp and hub temps. I got one off the MATCO tool truck.

He told me he was in a rest area in his motor home and he walked around and checked his temps and then checked the temps on the rig of another couple they were traveling with and one tire was much hotter than the others. He told the guy the tire was getting ready to let go and was not believed. They got back on the road and 75 miles down the road it came apart.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:17 AM   #484
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Hummer,
Thanks for relating your experiences. I hope that both you and your wife are healed up soon. Were you checked for a concussion?

I've been using the hand thermometer for years, but maybe I should consider an infrared thermometer. Monitoring tire pressures and temperature are a key to blowout prevention. It's also important to monitor hub and brake drum temperature to watch the trends of bearing friction and brake friction too!

I hope that everything goes well for your trip to Ohio later this year.

Steve
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:22 AM   #485
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I need to check with my buddy to confirm the temp differences in the tire that let go but I think he said it was about twenty degrees warmer than the rest.

That just triggered another memory from another friend who said he raced Corvettes and at the stops the crew checked tire temps with a IR thermometer as soon as they came in for fuel etc and he never lost a tire in a race. He said tire temps don't need to be elevated that much before ply separations start.


I have always checked my hubs and on the old ones they were just a little bit over body temp. I have a place I stop in NC where I can more or less ease in with min brake applications and I go back and grab them and never had a issue. I ran Grease, Aircraft Wide Temp Range WTR in my bearings which is Aeroshell 33. But the new axles came from manufacturer with a red synthetic hi temp grease and have fittings so I purchased three tubes of the same grease and have dedicated it to a new grease gun and I can pop the rubber plugs and give them a shot occasionally.

When I first got AS I re-packed all bearings before hitting the road and left the OE hubcaps off as I figured they sure did not do anything to enhance cooling.

As a point of interest the torsion bar axle engineer recommended the 5200 lb axles as he said starting at 5200 they come standard with same hubs/brakes/bearings as the heaviest rated axle they make which I think is 10,000.

On the OE brakes I ran them at 70% on the road and 30% in stop and go traffic but having not been able to take a road trip with them I haven't determined the percentages on the new ones yet as they are not fully seated.

Insofar as my head is concerned it was a neurosurgeon who checked me out and made the unconscious diagnosis based on my description of what I could remember and not remember.

Up until that time I did not know I was out. All I knew I was dazed. My wife was a med records auditor and she said if he was concerned he would have sent me for something else. She is the one that told me to write up all that I remember while it was fresh in my mind and I did that on Tuesday and thinking back on it now I am glad she recommended that as thinking of the sequences I was able to articulate better the first things I remembered and there is a definite gap between initiation scene and next scene I remember.

For instance I did not hear anything abnormal prior a sensation that the rear of my vehicle seemed to be rising rapidly and did not hear the collision and remember absolutely nothing until the next scene when I opened my eyes and seeing nothing but interior roof of vehicle and looking around and noticing I was looking out the rear window with the door post blocking me from getting out but in my dazed state I could not figure out why that was.

I have since been reading up on seat failures and it seems the Federal Standard requires the seat back be able to sustain a 30MPH rear impact without failure. As well when the seat backs do fail they lay back and the seat occupant is basically at the bottom of a sliding board and starts sliding up the seat and coming out from under the lap/shoulder belts. If the collision is violent enough you will continue sliding up the seat and your head will strike the rear seat ramming it forward.

Even more I read that a frontal impact of up to 30 MPH can be sustained when hitting immovable object without air bag deployment and obviously I was not immovable as my foot was off the brake the first milliseconds after impact. We were on level ground and I was just kind of holding it in place. It would be interesting to know the loads a sensor would need to initiate air bag deployment on a movable object ! ! ! !

Passengers in the rear seat take your load/impact in the upper chest/face or in the case of a infant seat the child is violently struck. As well the surfaces of the seat contribute to this "back up the sliding board" effect as the cloth seats offer more resistance to moving than smooth surface seats and our seats are leather or in other terms PLEATHER as obviously they are not real leather, just leather in appearance but they have a low friction surface.

There is documention of violent collisions of the front passengers being partially or fully ejected from the vehicle and seat belts are still secured.

There has been a movement for many years to raise the seat integrity requirements to at least 40 MPH and some have called for 50 MPH integrity. Sign me up for the 50 MPH club ! ! ! ! My reading has also revealed the industry has balked at this requirement and has failed to address it for several decades and our politicians have seen no need to make them.


I can only conclude my sliding up the seat gave me the sensation the rear of the vehicle was being raised when it was most likely me sliding up the seat back sliding board which would provide for a similar sense of elevation.

Based on everything I have subsequently learned I am now glad my tow vehicle is a standard cab 2500HD as my seat is adjusted to where it is touching the back of the cab and cannot fail backwards. We have to go to Alabama for doctors appointment after the 4th and wife has already said we need to go in 2500 HD as the driver seat in the Durango has already failed once and she is afraid of it as am I.


They did a CT on head, neck and full back within two 1/2 hours of the wreck at ER and I know the radiologist looked at head CT because the report said I have a plastic eye.haha
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:14 AM   #486
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Congrats, Borealis!

Quote:
Originally Posted by borealis2013 View Post
Thank you, Steve! Yes, I am now a believer of 16" LT tires, which in my opinion as well as all those who weighed in on this forum, is the safest way to go!
Congrats on the upgrade - we did the same after a catastrophic GY Marathon failure in the summer of 2012. Something can be said about peace of mind knowing you've added a layer or two of safety to your rig's running gear. Our Michelin's have over 7,500 miles on them now. I'm using (and recommend) a TPMS and IR temp gauge for additional real time tire performance data.

Thanks and be safe!
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:40 AM   #487
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Originally Posted by MaxAB View Post
Congrats on the upgrade - we did the same after a catastrophic GY Marathon failure in the summer of 2012. Something can be said about peace of mind knowing you've added a layer or two of safety to your rig's running gear. Our Michelin's have over 7,500 miles on them now. I'm using (and recommend) a TPMS and IR temp gauge for additional real time tire performance data.

Thanks and be safe!

Thanks for your response, MaxAB! Yes, I will definitely use a TPMS and IR temp gauge especially when I do another road trip south. Obviously, we don't get the kind of road temperatures here in Alaska that are generated along the desert southwest for example. Having said that, it's interesting that we've been breaking temperature records as of late ... 81F ... ... and 100F in interior Alaska!!! No wonder the glaciers are melting!!! Be well, be safe!!
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:20 AM   #488
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Will do, Borealis - keep 'stream'in the dream!
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:03 AM   #489
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.pdf Test

"This is a test, this is only a test. In the event of a real emergency, you would have been instructed to...."

I'm sure that those of you who are like me and lived through the fifties and sixties remembered this type of message being broadcast on commercial radio and TV stations. Well, this message is also a test of my ability to post a .pdf file (which we should all be able to do according to the attachment protocol on this website. Back in post 461 of this thread, I attempted to post a .pdf file and I was unable to do so. Also, last week, I attempted to post another .pdf on some installation instructions from Dometic on their twin cup drain kit for air conditioners, but to no avail. Janet, the moderator, did post the file that I sent to her, but, I want to try the post 461 file again comparing the older Michelin LTX MS tires to the current production LTX MS2 versions. Note: as noted in post 461, my chart is simply a consolidation of the information published on Michelin's own website So here goes!

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Old 07-03-2013, 10:37 AM   #490
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Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
Please tell others because as I noted above most people are running grossly overinflated tires.
That may be but its not all that it seems because:

trailers lurch with undulations in the road, this increase the momentary loading on the tires, increasing heat;

the roads are full of ridges, holes, debris and when the tires encounter these the effective load changes. More heat and carcase deflection;

ambient temperatures are usually higher than the the load rating spec which is set at 68F/20C (aka STP). At the rate of 1 psi per 10 deg, a starting inflation needs to be 2 or 3 psi above the nominal requirement;

and
there is no specified correlation between actual load and inflation. Namely if you are running a load of 60% or max and you want a 20% safety margin, it does not mean that you can deflate the pressure to say 80% of max. That some choose to infer this to be possible, true, the rule or otherwise is part of the usual internet misinformation. The manufacturers certainly do not test this (if they test anything at all for trucks/trailers) and I suspect but cannot prove that as ambient and surface temperature increases, there is an exponential relationship between the need for higher inflation relative to the nominal load.

All this adds up to heat build up which in a short time (say 3/4K miles) causes belt adhesion failures and tire delimitation. You can feel it on tires by placing your hand on the top of the tread. A slight crowning of the surface is an indication that belts are separating internally and you only have a few hundred miles at the most before it falls apart. Until a manufacturer can document a 50K road test of a fully loaded E/D tire through Death Valley, we are as one might say, on our own and hanging out there on a promise!

When I last saw (10 years ago admittedly) tires being tested by Firestone, they were held at a constant load and 65 mph against a drum and rolled continuously while pressures and temperatures were monitored. Compare that our interstate system where most N/S roads demand long periods where one side of the trailer is exposed to the continuous sun for 8/10 hours, surface temps above 120 deg and ambients at 100+. Nothing like the test cell as we hurtle down the pot holed road dodging other tire detrius, chunks of concrete and broken edges.

So I always inflate my E and G (on the truck) to max plus an ambient adjustment even though my load is at 85% of max. I suppose if I was at 50% of max then I would drop it but to no lower than a D rating or 65 psi even though I was still loaded to only 65% of a D rating being about 50% of an E maximum rating.

This is after 10 years of towing across country and losing 24 tires in the process, all of which were D or E STs and none were LTs
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