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Old 10-18-2014, 06:21 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by interstateflyer View Post
Another question. How critical is it that the AS and TV lie on the same plane when attaching the ProPride 3P? My drive slants slightly up from the level trailer port. This has worked OK with the Husky system but not sure about the ProPride 3P.
I no longer have a ProPride hitch, but I did tow with one for about 50,000 miles a few years ago, and one of the issues with both the Hensley and the ProPride is the difficulty in hitching up when not on the level. I remember two instances where it took me over thirty minutes to get hitched up because the tow vehicle were on a different slope from the trailer.

The other issue I had with the hitch was really created by the brake controller in my Dodge truck not being a good proportional unit, and when the brakes were applied quickly, it caused the ProPride yoke to slip and loose alignment. However, I never had that problem before I got the Dodge. I no longer have the Dodge brake controller.

About wind and a ProPride, it will still be felt when you are hit with a big gust of wind, it just won't cause a sway. I remember one time traveling thru West Texas and being hit by a large dust devil, or whirlwind, and there was no sway, but the whole rig was moved over about a foot. So I guess my point is, nothing will completely overcome strong forces of nature.

I've now been using a Reese SC hitch for two seasons, and although it is a simple friction sway control hitch, I have had no problems with sway at all. It is lighter than the ProPride, easy to hitch up, and simple. But it is what I would call difficult to get setup properly initially.

Good luck with your hitch selection, and I will only say that all WD hitches work, all sway control devises work, some better than others, and the setup of the hitch is more important than the type of hitch, IMHO.
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Old 10-18-2014, 09:47 AM   #16
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Hi, Like the above statements in high winds, or the wake from a big box, my trailer and tow vehicle only move a few inches. Wind is wind and a hitch can't stop that. [they stop sway] A million dollar hitch won't stop gusts of wind from moving you over, but three feet is way too much, or possibly caused by over reacting to the situation.
I wish you could drive a Hensley or ProPride setup, I think you would be surprised. Things don't move much if at all in even the worst sidewind/semi passing condition. You'll have a smile on your face how uneventful it is to tow.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:32 AM   #17
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I wish you could drive a Hensley or ProPride setup, I think you would be surprised. Things don't move much if at all in even the worst sidewind/semi passing condition. You'll have a smile on your face how uneventful it is to tow.
Hi, Doug; That's my point, or one of them. I've never had any incidents with my set-up so I don't know how I would feel any difference. I said to myself, years ago, if my Equal-I-zer ever failed I would buy a Propride. Ten years and all is well. Maybe when I'm able to tow with my new truck, things might be different.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:02 PM   #18
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wind mitigation system : hensley hitch/pro-pride

Did you read the post by "Foiled Again" ( posted on 10-16) about the 5 hour hitch fiasco she had with her Hensley hitch?
A camper recently told me he had a Hensley and had some problems with it. It is guaranteed for life but the "hitch" is you have to pay for shipping for them to check out the problem. It cost too much, so it is sitting in his shed.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:17 PM   #19
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Bob, we had an Equal-I-Zer and it was okay as well, and now the ProPride. There is difference in normal use, a great difference when the side winds are strong and the big rigs pass.

wolf, the 5-hour fiasco is something she got into and you should read all the thread. She still likes her hitch and is learning something about it. The "secret" to hitching is alignment, it won't go in if it's not aligned and that's not hard to do. Your friend the camper is passing worthless information. You should try one for yourself, I am sure you will like it as well. It's the best money we have spent on our Airstream.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:28 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by interstateflyer View Post
Another question. How critical is it that the AS and TV lie on the same plane when attaching the ProPride 3P? My drive slants slightly up from the level trailer port. This has worked OK with the Husky system but not sure about the ProPride 3P.
We use a digital angle guage, which I read about on the Forum. When we have the TT and TV on different planes, we measure the angle of the stinger. Then we zero out the guage, place it on the PP and move the jacks on the PP until the hitch is at the same angle as the stinger. The stinger then always slips right in to the hitch. Not a problem at all.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:57 PM   #21
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Interstateflyer, the stinger and the head box have to be in alignment. There is angle adjustment on the ProPride by raising or lowering the back of the head with the w.d. screw jacks. So it depends on the angle of the truck in relation to the trailer at your driveway. If you can back it into the driveway, unhitch and pull away from the hitch head smoothly it should hitch up smoothy.

Maybe someone here on the forums uses a Hensley/ProPride on a driveway with a steeper angle to the street?
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:31 PM   #22
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I hitch up on the drive in my Avitar....it's quite a bit of an angle with truck on apron.

OOPs, changed my Avitar....go to my profile page.
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Old 10-18-2014, 02:16 PM   #23
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Interstateflyer, the stinger and the head box have to be in alignment. There is angle adjustment on the ProPride by raising or lowering the back of the head with the w.d. screw jacks. So it depends on the angle of the truck in relation to the trailer at your driveway. If you can back it into the driveway, unhitch and pull away from the hitch head smoothly it should hitch up smoothy.

Maybe someone here on the forums uses a Hensley/ProPride on a driveway with a steeper angle to the street?
Yes I think we may be able to deal with the vertical difference in the driveway.

What about hooking up in curved and banked or off-camber campsites?
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Old 10-18-2014, 02:30 PM   #24
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As long as your are parallel between the stinger and the box, it doesn't matter.

Hints:

1) adjust height of trailer tongue so that the stinger enters the box at the very top edge of the box opening. The box is free to tilt upward, if the jacks are relaxed all the way down.

2) Camber can be matched by raising one or the other (only) jack to match the tilt of the truck side to side.

3) any curve works as long as the other two hints are done correctly

4) If the truck is backing uphill to the trailer (significantly), raise both jacks to match box parallelism to stinger; enter at LOWER edge of box; stop when just entering box and raise trailer slightly; rematch parallelism. Since truck is continuing uphill, you may have to do this twice (uncommon, but I have had to a couple times on severe sites.)
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Old 10-18-2014, 02:34 PM   #25
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I have been towing with an Andersen hitch and a quick-bite coupler for tow years now and love it. There are three reasons why I love it, 1. the weight of the hitch is only about 65 lbs., 2. the good sway control and improved ride. 3. hooking up with the quick-bite is a snap.
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Old 10-18-2014, 02:39 PM   #26
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wind mitigation system : hensley hitch/pro-pride

wolf, the 5-hour fiasco is something she got into and you should read all the thread. She still likes her hitch and is learning something about it. The "secret" to hitching is alignment, it won't go in if it's not aligned and that's not hard to do. Your friend the camper is passing worthless information.

Doug, I read many of the threads and this is the first time that I ran across the issue that Paula had. ( I like her style, she has a great way of putting things on "paper".) I was very surprised because I would never have thought of a having a problem like that in hitching

I like to read these forums because I get good ideas from them. I thought it was worthwhile sharing the info with the individual who is debating about what to get. Now he has more info and can check about the guarantee etc. I'll never see that camper again so I can't "double check" about the validity of his statement. Wolf
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Old 10-18-2014, 03:05 PM   #27
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As long as your are parallel between the stinger and the box, it doesn't matter.

Hints:

1) adjust height of trailer tongue so that the stinger enters the box at the very top edge of the box opening. The box is free to tilt upward, if the jacks are relaxed all the way down.

2) Camber can be matched by raising one or the other (only) jack to match the tilt of the truck side to side.

3) any curve works as long as the other two hints are done correctly

4) If the truck is backing uphill to the trailer (significantly), raise both jacks to match box parallelism to stinger; enter at LOWER edge of box; stop when just entering box and raise trailer slightly; rematch parallelism. Since truck is continuing uphill, you may have to do this twice (uncommon, but I have had to a couple times on severe sites.)
Rich,

Are there two jacks built into the hitch(s)?
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Old 10-18-2014, 03:12 PM   #28
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Rich,

Are there two jacks built into the hitch(s)?
Yes, I am talking about the spring bar (WD bars) jacks. When you aren't hitched up, raising them causes the head box to tilt down toward the ground at front. Raising one or the other will tilt the box side to side.

I'm not talking about the tongue jack......use that to only match height of entry by the stinger into the box.
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