Will my weight distrubution setup work on an AS?

[RV H-D Lady]

I have a weight distribution setup for a 10,000 lb. SOB ToyHauler I've been towing. Any comments on whether or not the "Lift Lock Brackets" will fit on the frame of a mid 70's Airstream? Here's a link to the type of setup I have...

RV, Travel & Utility Trailer Weight Distribution Hitch - NEW in Box!!

I haven't purchased an Airstream yet, but I'm looking and want to be prepared to tow her home safely when I finally find her.

Thanks!!

[wasagachris]

Hi w/d bars will just clamp right on. I have the same set up on mine. Sway bar will require attaching ball mount on side of A frame on trailer. There may be one already on the a/s you are looking at. When I bought my a/s sway bar ball mount was already installed.

[Mikethefixit]

Id say YES your hitch will work,but it is my belief 1000 lb bars are to heavy. Depending on your tow vehicle.

[RV H-D Lady]

Originally Posted by Mikethefixit

Id say YES your hitch will work,but it is my belief 1000 lb bars are to heavy. Depending on your tow vehicle.

My tow vehicle is a 3/4 ton Dodge Diesel. Mainly I'm concerned with getting a newly purchased AS home safely. Then if things need changed out I'll do it after I it get her home.

[RV H-D Lady]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

Hi w/d bars will just clamp right on. I have the same set up on mine. Sway bar will require attaching ball mount on side of A frame on trailer. There may be one already on the a/s you are looking at. When I bought my a/s sway bar ball mount was already installed.

I was concerned that the frame of an AS is different from my ToyHauler, making the clamps not fit properly. I might have to for go the sway bars for the trip home, but wouldn't concider doing that with the W/D setup.

[overlander64]

The snap-up brackets that you have with that hitch shouldn't pose a problem. I have used that same bracket on my '64 Airstream for 15 years with no problems. The weight distrubtion bars are a different story, they will be too heavy for any pre-1980 coaches and many of the newer coaches. For most vintage coaches, you would be good with 600 pound weight distribution bars. The 1,000 pound weight distribution bars might be needed for a late model 34' or one of the late models with a slide-out.

Good luck with your search!

Kevin

[1bbboomer]

If I understand the principal of the WD hitch correctly maybe someone can add some add some accurate information to clear this up for me.
I understand the issue of the potential of too much tension applied by the lifting bars when using #1000 pound bars but here is my question.
If the purpose of the WD hitch is to distribute the weight to the TV by raising the tongue back to the proper height, how is the higher weight rating a problem?
The bars are tapered indicating a progressive capacity. I do not know at what point of deflection the bars actually achieve maximum capacity. Is there any information available to determine this?
If the bars are used to achieve the required lift and not more, where is the problem?
Conversely if the lighter weight bars are used, is it not possible that they would not be able to achieve the proper amount of lift?
The bars do to some extent lift the tow vehicle too so it would seem possible that lighter weight bars may not be capable of doing their job.

[dznf0g]

1bb,

Good point. It is my belief that bars should be rated at, or the next rate above the ACTUAL (by scale) tongue weight. I don't buy this undersized rating conversation at all ON ANY COMPONENT!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by 1bbboomer

If I understand the principal of the WD hitch correctly maybe someone can add some add some accurate information to clear this up for me.
I understand the issue of the potential of too much tension applied by the lifting bars when using #1000 pound bars but here is my question.
If the purpose of the WD hitch is to distribute the weight to the TV by raising the tongue back to the proper height, how is the higher weight rating a problem?
The bars are tapered indicating a progressive capacity. I do not know at what point of deflection the bars actually achieve maximum capacity. Is there any information available to determine this?
If the bars are used to achieve the required lift and not more, where is the problem?
Conversely if the lighter weight bars are used, is it not possible that they would not be able to achieve the proper amount of lift?
The bars do to some extent lift the tow vehicle too so it would seem possible that lighter weight bars may not be capable of doing their job.

Load equalizing hitch "torsion bars" must be matched to the intended job, for optimum performance.

Using, bars that are excessively rated causes damage to the trailer, as they are too stiff.

The bars must flex when bumps are hit. Bars that flex little to none, will certainly pay negative dividends.

A good test, is to stand on the coupler when hooked up ready for travel. Then jump up and down, to make the A-frame move vertically. A very good setup will move 2 to 3 inches.

A bad setup, might not move at all, or maybe a 1/2 inch or so.

Excessive rated bars coupled with a excessive rated tow vehicles, are repair shops delight. You WILL damage the trailer far more than you think. Repairs can run into thousands of dollars, very easily and very quickly.

This is a case where "bigger" is NOT better, as many owners will now tell you.

There are other posts regarding this same subject.

Take the advice of folks that have been there and done that, and knowledgeable shops.

Andy

[dznf0g]

Andy,

With all due respect, jumping on the setup is not a good test to broadcast. Too many variables. person's weight, rear suspension of the truck etc. CAT scales and manufacturers specs and ratings are the only solid advice. My tongue weight, loaded and ready to go is 860 pounds. I would never consider a 650 or 750 bar rating, as has been suggested by some. 1000 pound is the way to go for me. I wiegh 168 pounds and I can only get about an inch or so "bounce". I'm sure a 250 pound man could get that 2 - 3" bounce. Not very accurate. I do agree that someone who has a 500 pound tongue weight should not use 1000 pound bars.

[RV H-D Lady]

Is anyone saying a 3/4 ton diesel truck is too much truck for a 23'-27' mid to late 70's AS?

[1bbboomer]

Not me, I have a 3/4 Ford PSD TV.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Andy,

With all due respect, jumping on the setup is not a good test to broadcast. Too many variables. person's weight, rear suspension of the truck etc. CAT scales and manufacturers specs and ratings are the only solid advice. My tongue weight, loaded and ready to go is 860 pounds. I would never consider a 650 or 750 bar rating, as has been suggested by some. 1000 pound is the way to go for me. I wiegh 168 pounds and I can only get about an inch or so "bounce". I'm sure a 250 pound man could get that 2 - 3" bounce. Not very accurate. I do agree that someone who has a 500 pound tongue weight should not use 1000 pound bars.

I use that test, "as a rough starting point".

The point is, if the coupler does not move vertically, as least to some reasonable degree, then your "over hitched" and/or over rigged.

Experience, is always superior to opinions.

Insurance companies data, supports the experience.

What may work for one setup may be quite the opposite for another.

Safety is the "issue", not opinions.

Andy

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by RV H-D Lady

Is anyone saying a 3/4 ton diesel truck is too much truck for a 23'-27' mid to late 70's AS?

It can be, but it depends on the rear suspension of the truck.

Andy

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by RV H-D Lady

Is anyone saying a 3/4 ton diesel truck is too much truck for a 23'-27' mid to late 70's AS?

This post is not intended to be sarcastic, it is just my observations:

You can beat yourself to near death reading the threads on TTs TVs and hitches on this forum. You will find as many opinions as there are stars in the sky. (yes, that is a slight exaggeration). In the end, YOU will have to decide whose opinion to trust or decide to make your own opinion.

To answer your question:

Yes, some people say that a "3/4 ton diesel truck is too much truck for a 23'-27' mid to late 70's AS". You will find what seems to be, a comparable number of people saying that the first group of people don't know what they are talking about. There a lot of "facts" quoted in the discussions, but most are only verified by more words.

My suggestion is to go to the towing forum and pick a few interesting sounding threads to read. Take note of the different opinions offered as facts, and then either decide to join one side or the other, or find a middle ground that makes sense to you.

I would tell you where I stand on this on this, but that would just be one more opinion.

Regards,

Ken

[Mikethefixit]

RV -- Lady
I have a 1 ton F350. The PO gave me a hitch and bars with the trailer at purchase. The bars were Reese 1000 lb ders. On the way home when crossing some bad bridges(rough approches and exits,this really flexed those 1000 lb bars and the resulting rebound almost caused me to lose control. NOW I'm experienced with weights and balances and being a truck driver(owner operator) for 45 yrs I think I've probably BEGIN THERE .DONE THAT.
Thats was the first time I used those bars and the Last. I immedialety sold em.
I had at home(which I didn't take with me) a Reese Straight Line Dual cam that I had bought for a box /car trailer. The bars are 550 or 600 lbs ,I'm not just sure which. But with the help of a state certified scale I was able to set up the WD system to give us in the TV and the trailer a smooth ocean wave type ride even on the roughest interstates.
This is my experience for what it may be worth. The decisions are completely up to you.
Roger

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

I use that test, "as a rough starting point".

The point is, if the coupler does not move vertically, as least to some reasonable degree, then your "over hitched" and/or over rigged.

Experience, is always superior to opinions.

Insurance companies data, supports the experience.

What may work for one setup may be quite the opposite for another.

Safety is the "issue", not opinions.

Andy

Agreed, but I would add: Engineering, Mfr's specs, SCALES and experience are better than opinions.

[Ganaraska]

One of the great features of the Airstream trailer is aircraft type, light weight construction. But this makes the trailer relatively delicate. With too stiff hitch bars and too rigid tow vehicle and hitch you can literally pound your trailer to pieces, causing loose rivets, bent frame, twisted sheet metal etc.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Mikethefixit

RV -- Lady
I have a 1 ton F350. The PO gave me a hitch and bars with the trailer at purchase. The bars were Reese 1000 lb ders. On the way home when crossing some bad bridges(rough approches and exits,this really flexed those 1000 lb bars and the resulting rebound almost caused me to lose control. NOW I'm experienced with weights and balances and being a truck driver(owner operator) for 45 yrs I think I've probably BEGIN THERE .DONE THAT.
Thats was the first time I used those bars and the Last. I immedialety sold em.
I had at home(which I didn't take with me) a Reese Straight Line Dual cam that I had bought for a box /car trailer. The bars are 550 or 600 lbs ,I'm not just sure which. But with the help of a state certified scale I was able to set up the WD system to give us in the TV and the trailer a smooth ocean wave type ride even on the roughest interstates.
This is my experience for what it may be worth. The decisions are completely up to you.
Roger

Roger.

If the Reese bars measure 1 inch on the top side as it enters the trunnion, and your using the dual cam, then the rating your using is 600 pounds.

Without the dual cam, that same bar rating drops to 550 pounds.

Andy

[boondockdad]

Another thread succumbing to the dreaded "over-hitched, over-trucked" argument...

To date, I've seen two camps in this discussion: one is based on manufacturer ratings and scaled weights, the other is based on anecdotal "evidence" and opinions.

I second Ken's advice; there's a ton (no pun intended) of really interesting threads on this. Do a search, just don't use the airforums "search"- it'll point you to fifty threads on dutch-oven cooking, or surge-protectors. Use google engine and "site:airforums.com" qualifier.