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10-12-2013, 08:11 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1978 Argosy 30
locust
, North Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 46
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Why do I need a hitch? Confused.
Well I finally have a pulling vehicle...a 1993 Dodge D250 LE Cummins diesel. I am not an overly experienced puller. I have pulled a car on a trailer with no wdh, just a ball. I have several friends that routinely pull excavators, masonry supplies etc that dont use them. They all three tell me I don't need it. They tell me my suspension is heavy duty enough. Funny thing is that everybody that pulls campers says I do. What gives? The guys don't pull campers. Also, I did buy one btw, the lady at the RV stores was trying to explain to me how they work and the need. I just don't get it. They don't increase the anchor points to the truck so how does it "distribute" the weight? My truck will be heavier then the camper. Does that matter?
I made a deal an a 29th Ambassador That is 4 hrs away. Getting it Monday. Anyway, any help is appreciated.
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10-12-2013, 08:32 PM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member
1978 31' Sovereign
1984 31' Excella
Springfield
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 325
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Control.
Just the thought of pulling 29' AS on the interstate with just a ball hitch is terrifying.
(shiver)
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10-12-2013, 08:34 PM
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#3
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Moderator
2015 25' FB Flying Cloud
2012 23' FB Flying Cloud
2005 25' Safari
Santa Rosa Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 13,159
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If you are going to pull a 29 foot Airstream with a 3/4 ton truck, you really need some type of weight distribution/sway control hitch system. You are probably going to have at least a 700# tongue weight. You will need to transfer some of that weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle. That is the function of a weight distribution hitch system. You will also need some type of sway control so that the trailer doesn't end up driving the tow vehicle.
You will also need a trailer brake controller in your tow vehicle or you won't have any trailer brakes. Some equipment trailer have surge brakes. Airstream travel trailer do not.
I have pulled travel trailers well over 100,000 miles. Believe me, you need a proper weight distribution/sway control hitch and a trailer brake controller.
Brian
__________________
SuEllyn & Brian McCabe
WBCCI #3628 -- AIR #14872 -- TAC #FL-7
2015 FC 25' FB (Lucy) with ProPride
2020 Silverado 2500 (Vivian)
2023 Rivian R1T (Opal)
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10-12-2013, 08:45 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1978 Argosy 30
locust
, North Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags
If you are going to pull a 29 foot Airstream with a 3/4 ton truck, you really need some type of weight distribution/sway control hitch system. You are probably going to have at least a 700# tongue weight. You will need to transfer some of that weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle. That is the function of a weight distribution hitch system. You will also need some type of sway control so that the trailer doesn't end up driving the tow vehicle.
You will also need a trailer brake controller in your tow vehicle or you won't have any trailer brakes. Some equipment trailer have surge brakes. Airstream travel trailer do not.
I have pulled travel trailers well over 100,000 miles. Believe me, you need a proper weight distribution/sway control hitch and a trailer brake controller.
Brian
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I have a brake control.
People who pull campers say I need one. I just can't figure out why. I don't understand how they distribute the weight. The attachment from trailer to truck is still with the single hitch slot. You know of a source That could educate me? The lady that sold me one just got me more confused. What makes a camper need one and similar weight "non camper type" not?
Thanks
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10-12-2013, 09:27 PM
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#5
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Moderator
2015 25' FB Flying Cloud
2012 23' FB Flying Cloud
2005 25' Safari
Santa Rosa Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 13,159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibskot
I have a brake control.
People who pull campers say I need one. I just can't figure out why. I don't understand how they distribute the weight. The attachment from trailer to truck is still with the single hitch slot. You know of a source That could educate me? The lady that sold me one just got me more confused. What makes a camper need one and similar weight "non camper type" not?
Thanks
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The hitch bar goes into the the receiver on the tow vehicle. The weight distribution bars on the WD hitch system are put under pressure on the trailer tongue bars. This puts a downward pressure on the front of the hitch bar in the receiver. This transfers some of the tongue weight through the receiver to the front axle of the tow vehicle.
Google "weight distribution trailer hitch systems". There is a good explanation under How Stuff Works.
As far as only campers needing WD, that is not correct. I was involved in towing very large boats (over 30' long, weighing 12,000#), and we would never consider towing without weight distribution and sway control.
Brian
__________________
SuEllyn & Brian McCabe
WBCCI #3628 -- AIR #14872 -- TAC #FL-7
2015 FC 25' FB (Lucy) with ProPride
2020 Silverado 2500 (Vivian)
2023 Rivian R1T (Opal)
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10-12-2013, 09:37 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1978 Argosy 30
locust
, North Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 46
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I just read on another site that it's kinda like a shock absorber between truck and trailer. Make sense? Is that right?
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10-12-2013, 09:45 PM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins
, Minnesota
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 458
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There are several factors involved. I'm not sure what you mean by a "non camper type", but... A larger Airstream is going to weigh upwards of 7,000 - 10,000 lbs. There are several situations on the road where that amount of weight pushing against your tow vehicle can be quite dangerous....wet/slippery, steep downhill grade, emergency stop etc. The wd hitch and sway bar locks your trailer and tow vehicle together so they act more like 1 single unit. Otherwise, without a wd hitch and sway bar, the sheer weight of the trailer pushing against your tow vehicle on wet/slippery, steep downhill grade or emergency stop could easily cause your rig to lose control and jack-knife. The wd/sway hitch will also reduce the amount of fishtailing your trailer experiences when passing an 18 wheeler.... or several 18 wheelers (either direction) which causes a great deal of air displacement, which can cause your trailer to violently fishtail and possibly cause you to lose control. The Airstream also has quite a tall profile...and in some situations you could encounter heavy cross winds, which again would cause your trailer to fishtail and/or even tip over onto its side. This can happen quite suddenly on hilly roads...catching you off guard with not enough time to recover.
Again, the wd/anti sway setup not only evens out some of the load weight, but locks your tow vehicle and trailer together...so they act more like one single unit....rather than having 10,000 lbs of trailer wobbling back and forth on a single ball hitch.
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10-12-2013, 09:45 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
1978 Argosy 30
locust
, North Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 46
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I read that site.
I guess the bottom line is it can't hurt having it so I guess I will use one. I bought it but was hoping to return it. Oh well.
Thanks for the help.
I'll post pics when I get trailer... we are pretty excited.
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10-12-2013, 10:15 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Excella 500
Charleston
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,073
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I have a reese dual cam. I finally figured out how to hook it up. I found this video very helpful seeing what the objective is..
How to use a weight distribution hitch - YouTube
__________________
As I grow older, I pay less attention to what men say. I just watch what they do.
- Andrew Carnegie
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10-12-2013, 10:47 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1978 Argosy 30
locust
, North Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 46
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Thanks. The guy sold me a system with 1000lb bars. That sound right? Again, I'll be towing a 29ft Ambassador. It will be empty now but can I still use this setup later too?
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10-12-2013, 10:48 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibskot
I read that site.
I guess the bottom line is it can't hurt having it so I guess I will use one. I bought it but was hoping to return it. Oh well.
Thanks for the help.
I'll post pics when I get trailer... we are pretty excited.
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SAFETY
That's the huge word that a load equalizing hitch not only gives you, the driver, but also for your innocent passengers.
Andy
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10-12-2013, 10:59 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibskot
Thanks. The guy sold me a system with 1000lb bars. That sound right? Again, I'll be towing a 29ft Ambassador. It will be empty now but can I still use this setup later too?
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With your SUPER HEAVY DUTY tow vehicle, you should only use 600 pound bars.
The 1000 pound bars will transfer considerable road shock to the trailer, that in time, will cause many different and expensive damages.
Airstream trailers, MUST have a soft ride, or else.
That includes having torsion axles that still have good rubber rods in them.
Andy
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10-12-2013, 11:02 PM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
1978 Argosy 30
locust
, North Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 46
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Danieb, that was a good video. I can see the difference. I still don't really the "how" part but oh well, hopefully they won't be hard to hook up.
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10-13-2013, 05:10 AM
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#14
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibskot
Danieb, that was a good video. I can see the difference. I still don't really the "how" part but oh well, hopefully they won't be hard to hook up.
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The bars act as levers, with the ball as the pivot point. As you lift up on the lever against the ball, you are pulling the front axle of your truck back down.
Remember Archimedes and his comment about having a lever long enough and a place to stand, and he could move the earth? Same thing, on a smaller scale.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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10-13-2013, 06:14 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
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Glad you're asking. It's an important question.
My layman's understanding (that helped me answer this question too) is that it like a wheelbarrow. When you drop that trailer tongue weight on the ball, that wants to lift your tow vehicle's front tires off the road. The weight distribution system is like your trailer having "hands" to grab the handles of a wheelbarrow and lift up so some if the weight is brought back to your front tires. If you don't have it, you won't have enough weight on the steering axle and you won't have the same kind of control you're used to while driving.
As to the bars and their weight. I your trailer tongue weight is 700# (I think that was the number mentioned earlier) 1000lb bars may be too much but I wouldn't go under that. I'd shoot for 800# bars because in my experience, not having enough makes that weight distribution challenge harder. Good luck!
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10-13-2013, 06:20 AM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
2010 28' Flying Cloud
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibskot
Danieb, that was a good video. I can see the difference. I still don't really the "how" part but oh well, hopefully they won't be hard to hook up.
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Here is another excellent video about weight distribution hitches and sway control.
I've been running a Curt friction sway control with weight distribution since 2008, first with a 25' Safari and then on my 2010, 28' Flying Cloud. The friction sway is just not good enough for the additional trailer weight.
Next week I am converting over to the Reese dual cam with distribution as shown in the video. For the money and less weight on the tongue of your truck it gives the best towing control on the market today.
A Camper World membership will give you a discount on any system they sell and they are Reese, Drawtite and Pro dealers. Check it out.
__________________
Old Cobra AH-1G Pilot
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10-13-2013, 06:37 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1964 22' Safari
1968 26' Overlander
Beaver County
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 620
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The way I visualize it
ibskot,
I'm not an expert and I hope this helps not hurts. The way I visualize it, as 63 said, the ball is the pivot point. The the long end of the bars connect to and, when tensioned, pull downward on the trailer frame at the tongue (A shaped) section. This tends to pull the back of the trailer down relative to the tow vehicle. That puts more force or weight on the trailer wheels. As that happens, it reduces the load on the ball, (because of the torque applied to the receiver from the upturned end of the bars in the hitch assembly) essentially pushing (or allowing) the front end of the tow vehicle down allowing it to carry more of the tow vehicle load. Better front wheel contact, better and more normal steering control and better all four wheel braking (the front wheels don't start slipping or skidding on the gravel or wet pavement.)
Sway control comes from a spring effect. The two bars have a slight offset from the centerline of the ball on either side. The arms act like springs (because of the elastic properties of steel). When you turn, that slight offset acts to increase tension on one bar and reduce tension on the opposite. When you straighten out of the turn, the bars want to return to their normal position. The one under more tension helps pull and keep the trailer in alignment. If the trailer overshoots coming out of the turn, the opposite side bar increases it tension, again pulling it back the other way. Ideally (and by design) the sway is dampened quickly (one cycle) and you're not fighting the tail of your trailer swinging back and forth. The same thing happens in cross winds and when you try to avoid that missing manhole cover.
Your approach that you have it and may as well use it is a good decision. We wish you many enjoyable trips.
Roy
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10-13-2013, 08:43 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Mantua
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,062
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What Andy said. If you had a 350 I would say just add a sway control device. The 250 may be too light in the front, but I doubt it. Just to be safe a WD system with sway may be a good idea. Hook up the trailer and seer how much the front of the truck rises. If it is less than a couple of inches, then you can get by without wD but with a sway control added. I know this is going to cause a problem withe som members, but most of them have never towed with a real truck. Jim
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10-13-2013, 09:27 AM
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#19
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigzagguzzi
What Andy said. If you had a 350 I would say just add a sway control device. The 250 may be too light in the front, but I doubt it. Just to be safe a WD system with sway may be a good idea. Hook up the trailer and seer how much the front of the truck rises. If it is less than a couple of inches, then you can get by without wD but with a sway control added. I know this is going to cause a problem withe som members, but most of them have never towed with a real truck. Jim
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A "real" truck....really Jim.
Real has nothing to do with it.
ANY TV will benefit from a WD hitch with sway.
Get the proper hitch set-up for you and yours......and us and ours.
It's the least expensive safety option you have.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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10-13-2013, 09:46 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
2007 28' International CCD
Springfield
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,423
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The levers on the hitch transfer weight just like a when you lift the handles on a wheel barrow,transfering weight to the front.
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