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Old 07-29-2018, 11:31 AM   #21
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This does bring a question to mind, if you do encounter excessive sway while driving at typical interstate speed; what are the immediate procedures any driver should do, to control that unexpected sway event?
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Old 07-29-2018, 11:38 AM   #22
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Apply trailer brakes and add TV throttle... when sway stops, release TV throttle gradually and continue using the trailer brake to decelerate. Ease off the trailer brake while monitoring the trailer behavior...

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Originally Posted by Martee View Post
This does bring a question to mind, if you do encounter excessive sway while driving at typical interstate speed; what are the immediate procedures any driver should do, to control that unexpected sway event?
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Old 07-29-2018, 02:02 PM   #23
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If you back up with the TT tongue raised, beware that if one of the rear skids hits the drive way you will buckle that rear quarter panel. It doesn't take much up force to do that because the the floor gives when frame flexes up. Then the frame goes back down, but the floor and skin do not. There goes $6 or 7,000.
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Old 07-29-2018, 03:12 PM   #24
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Yup. I have a nice “beauty mark” from dragging a skid. $3500 minimum to fix it...
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Old 07-29-2018, 03:57 PM   #25
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Not sure why you would have had the issue with the Blue Ox, unless you didn't have enough tension on the bars. Initially I had a little sway issue on my 28' Classic, but after talking with Dell at JD Sanders (Florida) and Blue Ox, I found out that I had the wrong torsion bars. Should have had 750# rather than 1,000#. If the hitch is set up correctly, there should be 1" - 2" sway in the bars. Can't help you with the drive way issue, but the reason I like the Blue Ox is that I don't have to remember to remove the anti-sway bar when I back up . . . cause there isn't one!
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Old 07-29-2018, 04:05 PM   #26
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The driveway issue hopefully will be solved with a small ramp - That's another issue...

Regarding the BlueOx hitch:

The BlueOx simply never did work OK for me. My son and I went through the set up several times, I had an "expert" check it out, and talked to BlueOx quite a few times. They, like me, could never figure out why I was having the problem with their hitch.

Attached is a photo of it's setup and the spring bars have a lot of bow which is what BlueOx wanted me to do so the pressure on the bar pivot would be great. Also, I have attached a photo of one of the CAT Scale weights. We never loaded much behind the rear axle so that didn't add to the problem.

We no longer have this truck and trailer so the BlueOx issue isn't one for me now. I'll be going in another direction...




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Old 07-29-2018, 04:12 PM   #27
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I usually don't weigh in on the threads in this section, however that shank looks really long and could be contributing to your problems, as it gives more leverage to "pivot" the truck on the rear axle. You generally want to keep the ball as close to the rear axle as possible, and this tow shank appears to be the opposite. Is it an optical illusion that the shank is bending before it enters the receiver?
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Old 07-29-2018, 04:17 PM   #28
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I usually don't weigh in on the threads in this section, however that shank looks really long and could be contributing to your problems, as it gives more leverage to "pivot" the truck on the rear axle. You generally want to keep the ball as close to the rear axle as possible, and this tow shank appears to be the opposite. Is it an optical illusion that the shank is bending before it enters the receiver?
It's the shank that came from BlueOx and it wasn't bent.
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Old 07-29-2018, 04:19 PM   #29
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Equalizer
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Old 07-29-2018, 04:29 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams View Post
I usually don't weigh in on the threads in this section, however that shank looks really long and could be contributing to your problems, as it gives more leverage to "pivot" the truck on the rear axle. You generally want to keep the ball as close to the rear axle as possible, and this tow shank appears to be the opposite. Is it an optical illusion that the shank is bending before it enters the receiver?
the shank is way too long! You are looking for trible my mate (;

the shorter the better. in the last photo, you can see that the ball is not vertical.

IMHO, take it to a proper well respected trailer dealer with the vehicle and a typical operating weight

get them to fully adjust and align the vehicle, bar, ball and ensure the trailer is level in travel and that you know how many chains links to use in normal operation.

when i did mine at CANAM, they removed the extra links. i only have one open link above my std operating position for the weight distribution bars.

i try to go to a CAT scale atleast once per season and get a three axle measurement
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Old 07-29-2018, 04:34 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams View Post
I usually don't weigh in on the threads in this section, however that shank looks really long and could be contributing to your problems, as it gives more leverage to "pivot" the truck on the rear axle. You generally want to keep the ball as close to the rear axle as possible, and this tow shank appears to be the opposite. Is it an optical illusion that the shank is bending before it enters the receiver?
I also noticed that shank looks quite a bit longer than the one on my BOSP. This is a photo taken the day I picked up the trailer... after going to the CAT scales I now take up one more link of chain than what's shown to return the steer axle weight to its original value.
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:04 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floridalarry View Post
Not sure why you would have had the issue with the Blue Ox, unless you didn't have enough tension on the bars. Initially I had a little sway issue on my 28' Classic, but after talking with Dell at JD Sanders (Florida) and Blue Ox, I found out that I had the wrong torsion bars. Should have had 750# rather than 1,000#. If the hitch is set up correctly, there should be 1" - 2" sway in the bars. Can't help you with the drive way issue, but the reason I like the Blue Ox is that I don't have to remember to remove the anti-sway bar when I back up . . . cause there isn't one!
Who/what brand needs to have the WD bars removed when they BU? 😳
Maybe the friction pad? 18 Seasons with the Safari, dual pads, never had to remove them backing up. 👍

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Old 07-29-2018, 05:07 PM   #33
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Who/what brand needs to have the WD bars removed when they BU? 😳

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It's not about the hitch itself, it's about the angle of the driveway apparently. OP needs to raise the rear bumper (by dropping the front) to back into a steep driveway.
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:10 PM   #34
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Best Weight Distribution Hitch With Sway Control

I have towed my Flying Cloud 27FB for 3 years using the Equalizer 4-Point Sway Control Weight Distribution Hitch and never experienced a problem. Towed with a 2015 Ford F150 Platinum 4X4.
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:13 PM   #35
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x3 on the Blue Ox. I’ve never had even a hint of sway except when I had the trailer loaded with too much weight in the rear.


And not to sell the Hensley designs, but this is a great video to show how they work. Note the 4-point connection (trapezoid) at the hitch and the (stupid) use of too much weight in the back and how it handles like a single unit.

https://youtu.be/o1MZoskr46Q
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Old 07-29-2018, 06:27 PM   #36
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Guys,

The problem I had with the BlueOx is long over as I sold the trailer and hitch about 1 1/2 years ago.

Now I'm looking for a new hitch that hopefully I will not have any problem with. I cannot afford a Hensley or ProPride so I'll be sticking with one that has 4 point sway control - probably the Reese.

I think making a ramp to smooth out the street to driveway dip may solve the problem or maybe I'll also need to go to 16" tires that will raise the trailer about 1.5".
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Old 07-29-2018, 07:41 PM   #37
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The Equalizer, works very well, eliminates sway and does an excellent job distributing weight.
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Old 07-29-2018, 09:58 PM   #38
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I love my Reese Straight Line w/Dual-cam!
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Old 07-31-2018, 06:12 AM   #39
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Which Is The Best Weight Distribution Hitch With Sway Control?

E4....works for us. Did need to get Equalizer custom shank 7” drop for 2010 Tahoe LTZ v 2018Tahoe RST...for towing 2017 FC23FB....how does it distribute and prevent sway? ...drawing - TV v TT forces...I think...maybe or not? Key is to make sure those bars are loaded... with correct shank size/setting...and to get all level. And if forces interacting of TV are separate from TT then it’s really an “E3 hitch”...three points? Click image for larger version

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Old 07-31-2018, 08:09 AM   #40
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I am a fan of the Equalizer. Since PP and HA are out, you have some good options to choose from.



I like my hitch because it is easy to hook and unhook and has served me well for over 40K miles on my current trailer. That said, I pull a 25 and as I understand things, the 28 has a heavier tongue weight. I can't speak for your system, only mine.


You might want to ask to hear from folks who actually tow a 28. Might make a lot of difference.
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