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07-29-2018, 11:31 AM
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#21
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4 Rivet Member
2017 25' Flying Cloud
Waco
, Texas
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 296
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This does bring a question to mind, if you do encounter excessive sway while driving at typical interstate speed; what are the immediate procedures any driver should do, to control that unexpected sway event?
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07-29-2018, 11:38 AM
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#22
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,406
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Apply trailer brakes and add TV throttle... when sway stops, release TV throttle gradually and continue using the trailer brake to decelerate. Ease off the trailer brake while monitoring the trailer behavior...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martee
This does bring a question to mind, if you do encounter excessive sway while driving at typical interstate speed; what are the immediate procedures any driver should do, to control that unexpected sway event?
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__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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07-29-2018, 02:02 PM
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#23
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:SPACE A" S/O 11 Air19745
2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,766
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If you back up with the TT tongue raised, beware that if one of the rear skids hits the drive way you will buckle that rear quarter panel. It doesn't take much up force to do that because the the floor gives when frame flexes up. Then the frame goes back down, but the floor and skin do not. There goes $6 or 7,000.
guskmg
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07-29-2018, 03:12 PM
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#24
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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Yup. I have a nice “beauty mark” from dragging a skid. $3500 minimum to fix it...
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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07-29-2018, 03:57 PM
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#25
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2 Rivet Member
2017 23' Flying Cloud
Ormond Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 98
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Not sure why you would have had the issue with the Blue Ox, unless you didn't have enough tension on the bars. Initially I had a little sway issue on my 28' Classic, but after talking with Dell at JD Sanders (Florida) and Blue Ox, I found out that I had the wrong torsion bars. Should have had 750# rather than 1,000#. If the hitch is set up correctly, there should be 1" - 2" sway in the bars. Can't help you with the drive way issue, but the reason I like the Blue Ox is that I don't have to remember to remove the anti-sway bar when I back up . . . cause there isn't one!
__________________
Larry & Linda Scovotto
WBAC #1021
Ormond Beach, FL
1966 20' Globe Trotter
2015 Nissan Frontier SL
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07-29-2018, 04:05 PM
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#26
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2 Rivet Member
2007 28' Classic
Greensboro
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 57
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The driveway issue hopefully will be solved with a small ramp - That's another issue...
Regarding the BlueOx hitch:
The BlueOx simply never did work OK for me. My son and I went through the set up several times, I had an "expert" check it out, and talked to BlueOx quite a few times. They, like me, could never figure out why I was having the problem with their hitch.
Attached is a photo of it's setup and the spring bars have a lot of bow which is what BlueOx wanted me to do so the pressure on the bar pivot would be great. Also, I have attached a photo of one of the CAT Scale weights. We never loaded much behind the rear axle so that didn't add to the problem.
We no longer have this truck and trailer so the BlueOx issue isn't one for me now. I'll be going in another direction...
__________________
2018 Ford F-150
2007 28 Ft Classic Limited
"It is well that war is so terrible -- lest we should grow too fond of it." Gen. R.E. Lee CSA
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07-29-2018, 04:12 PM
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#27
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Rivet Master
2011 22' Sport
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 762x51
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I usually don't weigh in on the threads in this section, however that shank looks really long and could be contributing to your problems, as it gives more leverage to "pivot" the truck on the rear axle. You generally want to keep the ball as close to the rear axle as possible, and this tow shank appears to be the opposite. Is it an optical illusion that the shank is bending before it enters the receiver?
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07-29-2018, 04:17 PM
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#28
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2 Rivet Member
2007 28' Classic
Greensboro
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams
I usually don't weigh in on the threads in this section, however that shank looks really long and could be contributing to your problems, as it gives more leverage to "pivot" the truck on the rear axle. You generally want to keep the ball as close to the rear axle as possible, and this tow shank appears to be the opposite. Is it an optical illusion that the shank is bending before it enters the receiver?
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It's the shank that came from BlueOx and it wasn't bent.
__________________
2018 Ford F-150
2007 28 Ft Classic Limited
"It is well that war is so terrible -- lest we should grow too fond of it." Gen. R.E. Lee CSA
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07-29-2018, 04:19 PM
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#29
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2 Rivet Member
2005 28' International CCD
Camarillo
, California
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 77
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Equalizer
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07-29-2018, 04:29 PM
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#30
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Rivet Master
2022 25' Flying Cloud
NCR
, Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams
I usually don't weigh in on the threads in this section, however that shank looks really long and could be contributing to your problems, as it gives more leverage to "pivot" the truck on the rear axle. You generally want to keep the ball as close to the rear axle as possible, and this tow shank appears to be the opposite. Is it an optical illusion that the shank is bending before it enters the receiver?
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the shank is way too long! You are looking for trible my mate (;
the shorter the better. in the last photo, you can see that the ball is not vertical.
IMHO, take it to a proper well respected trailer dealer with the vehicle and a typical operating weight
get them to fully adjust and align the vehicle, bar, ball and ensure the trailer is level in travel and that you know how many chains links to use in normal operation.
when i did mine at CANAM, they removed the extra links. i only have one open link above my std operating position for the weight distribution bars.
i try to go to a CAT scale atleast once per season and get a three axle measurement
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07-29-2018, 04:34 PM
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#31
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Moderator
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Alamo Heights
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams
I usually don't weigh in on the threads in this section, however that shank looks really long and could be contributing to your problems, as it gives more leverage to "pivot" the truck on the rear axle. You generally want to keep the ball as close to the rear axle as possible, and this tow shank appears to be the opposite. Is it an optical illusion that the shank is bending before it enters the receiver?
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I also noticed that shank looks quite a bit longer than the one on my BOSP. This is a photo taken the day I picked up the trailer... after going to the CAT scales I now take up one more link of chain than what's shown to return the steer axle weight to its original value.
__________________
— David
Zero Gravitas — 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | WBCCI# 15566
He has all of the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire. — Sir Winston Churchill
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07-29-2018, 05:04 PM
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#32
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floridalarry
Not sure why you would have had the issue with the Blue Ox, unless you didn't have enough tension on the bars. Initially I had a little sway issue on my 28' Classic, but after talking with Dell at JD Sanders (Florida) and Blue Ox, I found out that I had the wrong torsion bars. Should have had 750# rather than 1,000#. If the hitch is set up correctly, there should be 1" - 2" sway in the bars. Can't help you with the drive way issue, but the reason I like the Blue Ox is that I don't have to remember to remove the anti-sway bar when I back up . . . cause there isn't one!
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Who/what brand needs to have the WD bars removed when they BU? 😳
Maybe the friction pad? 18 Seasons with the Safari, dual pads, never had to remove them backing up. 👍
Bob
🇺🇸
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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07-29-2018, 05:07 PM
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#33
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Moderator
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Alamo Heights
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
Who/what brand needs to have the WD bars removed when they BU? 😳
Bob
🇺🇸
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It's not about the hitch itself, it's about the angle of the driveway apparently. OP needs to raise the rear bumper (by dropping the front) to back into a steep driveway.
__________________
— David
Zero Gravitas — 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | WBCCI# 15566
He has all of the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire. — Sir Winston Churchill
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07-29-2018, 05:10 PM
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#34
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New Member
2016 27' Flying Cloud
Steamboat Springs
, Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 3
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Best Weight Distribution Hitch With Sway Control
I have towed my Flying Cloud 27FB for 3 years using the Equalizer 4-Point Sway Control Weight Distribution Hitch and never experienced a problem. Towed with a 2015 Ford F150 Platinum 4X4.
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07-29-2018, 05:13 PM
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#35
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Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daleyocum
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And not to sell the Hensley designs, but this is a great video to show how they work. Note the 4-point connection (trapezoid) at the hitch and the (stupid) use of too much weight in the back and how it handles like a single unit.
https://youtu.be/o1MZoskr46Q
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07-29-2018, 06:27 PM
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#36
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2 Rivet Member
2007 28' Classic
Greensboro
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 57
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Guys,
The problem I had with the BlueOx is long over as I sold the trailer and hitch about 1 1/2 years ago.
Now I'm looking for a new hitch that hopefully I will not have any problem with. I cannot afford a Hensley or ProPride so I'll be sticking with one that has 4 point sway control - probably the Reese.
I think making a ramp to smooth out the street to driveway dip may solve the problem or maybe I'll also need to go to 16" tires that will raise the trailer about 1.5".
__________________
2018 Ford F-150
2007 28 Ft Classic Limited
"It is well that war is so terrible -- lest we should grow too fond of it." Gen. R.E. Lee CSA
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07-29-2018, 07:41 PM
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#37
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2 Rivet Member
2017 30' International
Cumming
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 77
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The Equalizer, works very well, eliminates sway and does an excellent job distributing weight.
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07-29-2018, 09:58 PM
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#38
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1 Rivet Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 17
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I love my Reese Straight Line w/Dual-cam!
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07-31-2018, 06:12 AM
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#39
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JFTKSU78
2017 23' Flying Cloud
Olathe
, Kansas
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 127
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Which Is The Best Weight Distribution Hitch With Sway Control?
E4....works for us. Did need to get Equalizer custom shank 7” drop for 2010 Tahoe LTZ v 2018Tahoe RST...for towing 2017 FC23FB....how does it distribute and prevent sway? ...drawing - TV v TT forces...I think...maybe or not? Key is to make sure those bars are loaded... with correct shank size/setting...and to get all level. And if forces interacting of TV are separate from TT then it’s really an “E3 hitch”...three points?
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07-31-2018, 08:09 AM
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#40
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Spokane
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,848
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I am a fan of the Equalizer. Since PP and HA are out, you have some good options to choose from.
I like my hitch because it is easy to hook and unhook and has served me well for over 40K miles on my current trailer. That said, I pull a 25 and as I understand things, the 28 has a heavier tongue weight. I can't speak for your system, only mine.
You might want to ask to hear from folks who actually tow a 28. Might make a lot of difference.
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