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Old 12-31-2010, 12:13 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jomondnv View Post
I have purchased a 2004 25' Safari last month. I'm towing it with a 2011 Tundra 4.6. I have to purchase a hitch and not sure the right way to go.
I'm tending to lean toward the Reese SC hitch 600# vs the EAZ-Lift adjustable weight dist hitch. With the EAZ-Lift I will also need to purchase a sway bar. With the Reese, its all in one. I understand that the Reese makes less nosie also.
Any help would be appreciated...looking forward to getting on the road.
As you have probably determined by now, this is one of those highly contentious subjects. I believe that any of the hitches mentioned in this thread will do an excellent job if they are set up properly. And, setting them up properly is the key. It may take several attempts to get the correct setting for your TV and AS.

I like the Reese Strait-Line setup (WD withe SC) for my setup although it did take me several times to get the settings right (I have a 3/4 ton Dodge Ram diesel 4WD long bed with a 27' FB Classic Limited). I know there are folks that will think that my TV is to big, but, I am at the limit of what I can tow without overloading the TV (diesel and 4WD both reduce the carrying capacity of my TV).

If I were using a SUV for a TV, I would probably go with a higher end hitch because of the softer (read less stable) ride of the SUV. On the other hand, I think that the higher end hitches would be over kill for my TV.

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Old 12-31-2010, 12:19 PM   #16
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I guess I am moving right along. Sal.

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Old 12-31-2010, 03:30 PM   #17
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For the record - the Touareg weighs 5,825 lbs as compared to a Suburban at 5,600 to 6,300 lbs so I wouldn't say my gal is skinny...

In fear of continuing to beat this dead horse - no more comments from this member of the peanut gallery as I've answered the OP's question in regards to the subject of this Post - my comments are my opinions and I never wish to offend anyone but at the same time I'm gonna give my opinion when asked...

Best wishes to everyone for the New Year!
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:34 PM   #18
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I have a simple formula:

A WD/anti-sway hitch is a safety device. Following the law of diminishing returns, you can spend disproportionately more for an excellent one than a good one, and a small amount more for a good one than a crappy one.

Simply buy the best hitch you can afford. If you don't have a $2k+ budget, there's nothing wrong with that. Buy the best hitch you can with the finances you have available.
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Old 01-01-2011, 07:17 AM   #19
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The "risking life and limb" claims are usually spoken by religious zealots who have "seen the light"...and everyone else is subject to eternal damnation.
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Old 01-01-2011, 07:22 AM   #20
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An Eaz-Lift is a doorstop. The difference between an Equal-I-Zer or a Dual Cam and a PP/HA/PR is that the former pair are adjustable door stops.

As radial tires are "too expensive" consider that re-capped bias ply tires hold air just fine. Same for disc brakes: My vehicles have always stopped, thus drum brakes all around are perfectly adequate for any conditions described. I'll do fine even with brakes only on the rear wheels. Traction control, anti-roll and other electronic safety features of modern TV's have no statistical safety basis. A rubber-roofed, stick-built TT is a great value, and an Airstream is an ostentation. Aerodynamic qualities and independent suspension are overrated for road performance. No reason to move forward from the technology of the 1960's, its just a trailer I don't use very often. Etc.

The OP can take it for granted that -- as with radials versus bias, or drum brakes versus disc -- those without experience of best hitch rigging have no basis for comparison. The differences are real. And dirt cheap considered rationally. I can do maneuvers with mine the day long that would have them off the road and disabled in short order.

Trailer disc brakes round up the trifecta of what I've called the gold standard: sway-eliminating hitch, trailer disc brakes, and state-of-the-art brake controller. The best hitch rigging is never expensive. Tow vehicle or trailer size/type have nothing to do with it. Performance margins matter. False economies are just that.

The weak link is then the choice of TV as some are better than others in re performance . . an Airstream is more capable than many TV's. It isn't the trailer that needs the help is the ironic, way of looking at it . . keeping the TV upright and lane-centered in challenging conditions is the hitch rig goal. Especially with pickup trucks and SUV's.

The best performing trailer was the difficult decision. The hitch rigging is just a few details (adjustment numbers derived from scale readings) after making the same decision about performance, again, in concerns hitch brand/type: the best is sufficient. All others lack, and should be avoided for best performance.

A used HA can be found for 1/2 the cost of new if $$ is a concern.


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