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Old 11-04-2010, 09:37 AM   #1
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1967 22' Safari
1978 25' Tradewind
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What kind of WD hitch is this? and is it any good?

So, I am seriously considering buying a 1978 TradeWind that has this kind of weight distribution hitch. Is this weight distribution only or sway control as well?
Thanks,
John Hejmanowski
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:37 AM   #2
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That is a Reese WD hitch w/ dual-cam sway control.

and yes, its good!

They have manuals on their website for installation and configuration.
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:48 AM   #3
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I was hoping that's what it was. When I looked at the Reese site the 'dual cam' was threaded and adjustable length. Perhaps this is an earlier version?

Thanks. I'll check out the install manual.

John H
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:58 AM   #4
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It looks like the 70's version Reese dual cam. There are lots of them still out there doing the job! I use the same one my grandfather had installed in the 70's. I did have to buy a new longer drop draw bar because the truck is much higher that the 78 Caddy Fleetwood he used to tow with. You may look into finding out how heavy the bars are and if they will work for you tow vehicle.
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:00 PM   #5
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yep. earlier version. you just don't have the flexibility in positioning the cams and snap-up brackets with the old version.
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:13 PM   #6
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Yup, all answers are correct. I've towed many thousands of miles with one of these rigs (a 23' Safari). It's not a Hensley, but in my personal view, it's WAY enough control for that small a trailer - at least with my 3/4 ton tow vehicle.

Search the threads and you will find some information from Andy from Inland RV on the weight ratings of the weight distribution bars ... they come in four or five different thicknesses, and as they get thicker, they are capable of distributing more load. The consensus on this board seems to be that you will need at most 750# bars. That is what I have, and as I say, I've encountered NO sway. I also don't latch them down very tight, so as to keep the trailer ride pretty soft.
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:18 PM   #7
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I have the same hitch, and agree that it gets the job done.

The one thing that caught my attention is the length of your draw-bar. Mine is (IIRC) about half that length.

The closer to the vehicle the more stability you will have.

What are you going to tow with?
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:41 PM   #8
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Some information for you on that setup:


Tuning a Reese Hitch
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:42 AM   #9
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Thanks everyone. I bought the 78 Trade Wind and towed it back from New Jersey to New Lenox (Illinois). Used the Reese WD that came with the trailer. Luckily the original owner had recorded all the install positions as set up by Airstream when he purchsed the trailer in '78. It worked great! (after I re-set the ball height)

I towed with a 2005 Tacoma V6. Did fine thru the hills of Pennsylvania and of course okay in the flat lands of Ohio and Indiana.

This 78 Trade Wind is a very cool trailer.....
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:50 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Ganglin View Post
Some information for you on that setup:


Tuning a Reese Hitch
Gary.

Can you post who wrote that very nice article?

There are some updates available that could be easily added.

Andy
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:20 AM   #11
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Those spring bars look way to heavy for a TradeWind
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:00 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Gary.

Can you post who wrote that very nice article?

There are some updates available that could be easily added.

Andy
Andy,

I'm unclear on who the original author was but I'll keep digging around to see if we can find out. I ran across this a few years back and it was a big help in better understanding this setup, at least for me. I'd say if there are valuable updates to add - stick some on it as a footnote - it could only help.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:08 AM   #13
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Bruce, using Gary's article, I am going to measure the bars and go thru the set up again using the original Reese kit instructions.

What size spring bars should I be using?

thanks,

John H
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Old 11-08-2010, 10:21 AM   #14
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Bruce, using Gary's article, I am going to measure the bars and go thru the set up again using the original Reese kit instructions.

What size spring bars should I be using?

thanks,

John H
With your tow vehicle, I would suggest the smallest rating that you can buy.

Or, as close to 600 pounds as you can.

Andy
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Old 11-08-2010, 10:25 AM   #15
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Andy,

I'm unclear on who the original author was but I'll keep digging around to see if we can find out. I ran across this a few years back and it was a big help in better understanding this setup, at least for me. I'd say if there are valuable updates to add - stick some on it as a footnote - it could only help.
Gary.

I cannot add anything to it, that in any way, could promote myself or Inland RV Center, since we are a vendor.

But, anyone can, as long as they are not a "commercial vendor".

There are a number of corrections that should be included, in an updated version.

Andy
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:57 AM   #16
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From Tuning a Reese Hitch:

" I believe the reason the previous owner had 1000 pound bars in spite of having less than 500 pounds tongue weight is because those particular bars would have been suitable for his original tow vehicle – a soft-sprung 1966 Oldsmobile Delta."

The REAL problem he had was 1000 pound bars with 500 pound tongue weight. That would cause a problem no matter the tow vehicle.
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:41 AM   #17
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Bruce, you were right, the bars are 1,000 lb bars.

So, here's a thought - I am thinking to simply reduce the bar width from 1.25" (1,000# bar) to 1.0" (550# bar). I would use a grinder and frequent water cooling to keep the bar stock cold. Any opinions?

Thanks, John H
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:00 PM   #18
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Bruce, you were right, the bars are 1,000 lb bars.

So, here's a thought - I am thinking to simply reduce the bar width from 1.25" (1,000# bar) to 1.0" (550# bar). I would use a grinder and frequent water cooling to keep the bar stock cold. Any opinions?

Thanks, John H
Well John, you did ask for opinions, and my opinion is I would not attempt that. Bars are too cheap to risk one breaking because of a at home modification. Even if I had a full machine shop, I would not do it to save the price of a pair of bars. If I didn't want to spend the money for a new set, I'd try to find a used set somewhere like EBAY. There's too many stories about these Reese bars breaking on here already, IMHO.
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Old 11-19-2010, 03:06 PM   #19
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Gary.

Can you post who wrote that very nice article?

There are some updates available that could be easily added.

Andy
The author has not posted for several months. I have sent him a note.
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Old 11-19-2010, 04:10 PM   #20
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I welcome updates to the page

Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane View Post
The author has not posted for several months. I have sent him a note.
I got your note, and am happy to see that others have benefited from the article I wrote and posted on my Overlander's web site.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InlandRV
There are a number of corrections that should be included, in an updated version.
While I wouldn't say that page went 'viral' on the Internet, a year or two ago, I told white-box owner about it, and he subsequently mentioned that a bunch of other sites had linked to it - the page appears to be referenced frequently.

As I was a novice making my own discoveries while tuning the hitch & writing the article, it is easily believable that a seasoned installer could contribute welcomed insight into what was discussed. I would welcome the guru-from-California's comments.

I would prefer the guru mentioned email me a red-lined article - I'm sure all comments would be incorporated, and it's tons easier than bantering the subject on this forum.

Tom
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