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Old 01-09-2004, 09:32 AM   #15
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Grease neither end?

UPDATE - Chuck posted the answer before I got the question up. The answer is "Yes" to oiling the pivot points.

Hmm, I have a load distributing, adjustable drawbar in addition to the Reese drawbar which has "OIL" forged on it near where the spring bars are inserted. I understand Reese's point about not oiling the cams, but how about the pivot points on the drawbar?

Tom
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Old 01-09-2004, 10:24 AM   #16
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You are correct in what the factory says regarding grease. I use a small amount only(not slathered on). There are several types of hitches with sway control in the spring bars. The new Reese is also different than the old ones.

I was merely expressing my experience which is why I suggested you try it for yourself on a short trip. You will find that with ungreased saddles, that you will experience significant wear at the contact point. I've seen several with deep grooves in the metal.

Vaseline is a petroleum based product, like grease. The reason I use grease is the "stay" factor. It doesn't wash off with road spray, or melt away as easily with heat.

Bottom line, do what you feel safe with. That's the best thing about these forums, the wide variety of opinions and experiences.

Tripp
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Old 01-09-2004, 10:46 AM   #17
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Re: What kind of Reese is it?

Quote:
Originally posted by overlander64
It does make a fair amount of noise, especially in slow-speed maneuvers - - loud pops and sometimes bangs as the bars move out of the sadles as the trailer is moved either left or right.

Well, part of the noise was because the U-Bolts (?) weren't tight enough and the entire assembly was shifting around. It really did handle much better on the freeway (according to my husband) and from the passenger seat it felt different to me too. I was actually able to relax and read my book instead of constantly looking behind us.

My concern still remains that the bars flexed under pressure. Would this indicate that the metal is fatigued, the tongue is too heavy for the bars or that I simply had them adjusted wrong?

Virginia
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Old 01-09-2004, 10:59 AM   #18
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There will be some flex in the bars. The spring bars are designed to transfer weight between the vehicle and trailer. They lessen the harshness with the flex in them, however, if they are permanently bent or bowed or are bowed significantly at a standstill, you should have them checked. If they are original and well used, you may consider replacement. There are different weight bars available.


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Old 01-09-2004, 11:00 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by Silvertwinkie
So the dual cam system from Reese has been out there for decades then?

Learn something new everyday.

Here I thought dual cam from Reese had come out in the past 10 years.
I have paperwork for a Dual cam from 1959 when Our coach was new. I also have the 1959 KH brake book.

The above is a still currently available Dual cam. Same exact set up I have that is only a few years old.


I suspect it was doing a LOT more then you think it was. The banging is the cams unlocking. Tight turns it will get quite loud and frequent. A little Vasaline will quiet them down. No grease, it's to slipery. It needs some friction to operate properly.
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Old 01-09-2004, 11:56 AM   #20
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Re: Re: What kind of Reese is it?

Quote:
Originally posted by Towster


My concern still remains that the bars flexed under pressure. Would this indicate that the metal is fatigued, the tongue is too heavy for the bars or that I simply had them adjusted wrong?

Virginia
It not unusual to have some flex in the bars dependent upon the amount of lift you need to get the trailer and tow vehicle level. If there is no label on the bars it probably would be worth while to replace them with bars properly rated for your hitch weight.

As I upgraded trailers over the years, I replaced my bars 3 times with heavier weight units. Not a terrible expense. I've been told that overloaded bars can snap.

Jack
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Old 01-09-2004, 01:05 PM   #21
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Greetings Virginia!

Quote:
Well, part of the noise was because the U-Bolts (?) weren't tight enough and the entire assembly was shifting around. It really did handle much better on the freeway (according to my husband) and from the passenger seat it felt different to me too.
The one time that I noticed a similar problem with my Dual Cam setup was when the cam levers mounted on the trailer tongue were not properly spaced from the ball mount (the saddles were not lining up properly with the bar mounts on one side) - - one side was correct and one wasn't - - the result was the trailer seemed to be trying to stay at a very slight angle to the tow vehicle giving exactly the sensation that you describe. Try consulting the Reese Dual Cam Installation Guide . The instructions may help to shed some light on the way the system is setup.

One other time I had some similar problems with a weight distributing bar that seemed to be "loose" when compared to its mate that was identically adjusted. After several days, the culprit became obvious - - there is a "press-fit" pin that holds the pivot point portion of the bar to the "trunion" that fits into the ball mount - - the pin had been partially sheared when exiting a service stations whose drive was at a very steep angle - - the pin finally failed and the bar dropped out of the "trunion" - - my Airstream dealer repaired the bar and the technician indicated that it was not terribly uncommon to need to make that particular repair.

Kevin
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Old 01-09-2004, 02:20 PM   #22
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Same thing came with my '77 Excella 500. The ball platform was welded and was way too high for my 4X4 truck. I still have all the parts.
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Old 01-09-2004, 03:20 PM   #23
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I am embarrassed to admit that, in reviewing the above I find that I have had a dual cam all this time, but did not know it! Mine came with a supplimental friction bar as well. Some previous owner apparently believed in the suspenders and belt approach.

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Old 01-09-2004, 05:24 PM   #24
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Belt AND Suspenders

Mark:

Look at it this way:

Grease the Dual Cam, eliminate the noise, and utilize the friction bar for the sway.

As previously stated, a dry cam really wears away at the seating area. That much friction causing that much wear can't be good.
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Old 01-11-2004, 09:26 AM   #25
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Get a really really good anti-sway system, do something to disable it and defeat its purpose, then get another anti-sway system that isn't as good as the first one that you paid $ for and disabled?
why would I look at it that way?

its supposed to wear; that's how it was designed.
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Old 01-11-2004, 11:52 AM   #26
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As best as I can tell, the cams can be unbolted and replaced if worn out. Question is, "Do the newer Reese cams fit the older bars?"
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