You'll get specific help here from folks who have exactly that type. But the short answer is that the trailer should end up level, and the hitch height of your tow vehicle should not change much. You can use the jack to raise the trailer when you are hooking up your chains, to keep you from straining too much.
Aside from that, I don't think I have ever seen a rig so clean and freshly painted. Looks Great!
Follow what Reese tells you. I usually setup my hitches so there is three links hanging so I have flexibility of adjusting the W/D load for changes in loading of the trailer and the TV. Proper setting of the links is a function how you set up the hitch as well as the trailer and how you typical how much and now you load your "junk" in it. You have a twin cam system and this system will be more effective if there is signifigant force and defection on the W/D bars.
Follow what Reese tells you. I usually setup my hitches so there is three links hanging so I have flexibility of adjusting the W/D load for changes in loading of the trailer and the TV. Proper setting of the links is a function how you set up the hitch as well as the trailer and how you typical how much and now you load your "junk" in it. You have a twin cam system and this system will be more effective if there is signifigant force and defection on the W/D bars.
Never, ever, consider how many links are "hanging".
That's like saying, "You won't believe how many drinks, I DIDN'T DRINK"
Always, always, always, pay strict attention to how many links you have "UNDER STRESS". In that way, you will make sure you don't accidently put a twist in the chain, which will change the stress put on that bar.
How many links hanging is information that has zero value.
You will also find, sometimes, that the number of links from one side, are different from the other side.
Count the links under stress, and the twist that you may have made in that chain, only.
When the hitch rating is correct, and the hitch is properly installed, the Reese bars must bend a minimum of one inch, for the dual cam to be effective. Two inches is even better.
When the bend in the bars is minimal, the weight transfer and sway control, is also minimal.
The bars are tested for a 5 inch bend, so don't worry about breaking them. Worry instead on how to make the bars give you maximum performance.
I've found my rig, '78 Argosy 24 pulled by a GMC Safari van tows MUCH better with the load on the WD bars set to where the vehicle is virtually level. A do agree with the part of the Reese instructions that say you should never transfer more of the load to the front than the rear (jacked up look on the TV). However, ours towed terrible with the Reese recommended 1" more sag measured at the rear wheel wells that the front. I think this is a function of the TV. Folks with pick-up trucks seem to do better with more load on the rear.
The hitch angle, set by adding washers to the pin on the back of the hitch head is crititcal. One link on the chain is a fairly big adjustment!. Also, make sure you start with the ball at the right height. The spec should be in your owners manual or I'm sure it's online somewhere.
You didn't say what the TV is but your trailer is pretty light. The greater the margin you have between trailer weight and towing capacity the less critical the WD setting becomes.
Normally, 5 chain links should be under stress, "IF".
1. The rating of the bar is correct for the tow vehicle/trailer combination.
2. The hitch has been properly installed.
A better answer can be given, only when the following information is available.
1. Year and length of the trailer.
2. The make and model of the tow vehicle.
3. The rating of the hitch bars.
Andy
Andy
I have 1965 Caravel 17', my tow is a 2006 GMC Envoy, I don't know the rating of the hitch, but it look very heavey duty, I posted a picture of the hitch above, when I go to 3 links it looks like it wants to come off the 2" ball
Andy
I have 1965 Caravel 17', my tow is a 2006 GMC Envoy, I don't know the rating of the hitch, but it look very heavey duty, I posted a picture of the hitch above, when I go to 3 links it looks like it wants to come off the 2" ball
Contrary to your thoughts, the greater the bend in the bars, the more it pushes down on the ball.
Your say 3 links. Three links under stress, or dropped?
You must know the rating of the hitch bars.
Since you have a Reese, you can measure the width of the top of the bar as it goes into the trunnion.
If the bar is 1 inch wide then the rating with the dual cam sway control is 550 pounds.
If the bar is 1 1/8 inch wide, then the rating is 750 pounds.
If the bar is 1 1/4 inch wide, then the rating is 1000 pounds.
I believe, don't have them infront of me right now, is there must me a minimum of five links under stress. Nothing wrong with one or two more if that gets the weight right but less will interfere with the proper functioning of the hitch.
I believe, don't have them infront of me right now, is there must me a minimum of five links under stress. Nothing wrong with one or two more if that gets the weight right but less will interfere with the proper functioning of the hitch.
But if you go beyond 5 links under stress, then you also reduce the ground clearance.
So I need to buy new one at 500 pounds, if I run with the 1000 untill I get the 500 pounds should I set it using three links, that is what to old owner used.
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