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Old 04-19-2016, 05:31 PM   #71
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And here I thought the Anderson bashing was dead. I've been a happy Anderson Hitch user for 4 years now and probably 50-60k miles. Just came home from a 6k trip south. All's good. I'm a happy traveler heading to Alaska soon. There's lots of good choices out there and lots of opinions.

See ya on the road sometime.
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:11 PM   #72
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What hitch to purchase?

In all of this the real principle is "Your Mileage May Vary".

Truly I know what I like, and I'll advocate for what I like with hopefully cogent reasoning, but the bottom line is we are hopefully all more-or-less adults on here, and get to live with our personal decisions.

That said, anyone towing a trailer that's swaying will see me leave lots of room for them, as I really don't want to get involved. 😄😄😄

Saw one towing a big utility trailer at way over the California towing limit of 55. It was oscillating wildly as he went by at what must have been at least 70. I slowed down. 😀😄 expected to see a mess down the freeway, but maybe the dern fool got it sorted.


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Old 04-20-2016, 08:19 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
And here I thought the Anderson bashing was dead. I've been a happy Anderson Hitch user for 4 years now and probably 50-60k miles. Just came home from a 6k trip south. All's good. I'm a happy traveler heading to Alaska soon. There's lots of good choices out there and lots of opinions.

See ya on the road sometime.
I was not opining. I was relating my real life experience with the Anderson. As a matter of fact MPD 81911 Coupler they recommended which I had put on my trailer is a much lighter coupler than the 88007 that came with the trailer. Now it has cracked in a couple of places where the stand now wobbles so now I have to go through the pain of having it removed and an original welded back on.
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:27 AM   #74
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When we bought our travel trailer our tow vehicle was a 2005 Toyota Sequoia. Very capable, but a little short in the wheelbase department. We started with an Equal-I-Zer and soon found it wasn't for us.

Enter the ProPride. We've towed with it for seven years now and it's been awesome. Nothing beats sway elimination. When we switched tow vehicles for an F-150 last year, the ProPride stayed with us.

The price? Weigh it against the people you love, there in the truck with you while you tow. It's a pittance.
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:51 AM   #75
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I am using the Reese "straight line" dual-cam. I had it set up at JC and it works flawlessly. One thing that you have to do is to label each of the bars (Left or Right) since a small difference is setting can translate into a less than optimal ride.

Many of the WD type hitches use friction for sway control -as does the Recurve in the video. The dual cam design provides active sway control, as opposed to the passive control of a friction system, by having the cam portion of the bar ride up on the saddle, increasing the pressure to return to center.

I had one instance where I had to execute an evasive maneuver at 60mph on the highway between Las Vegas and Pahrump NV. The Reese dual cam kept the rig from wiping out.
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:17 AM   #76
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Yeah another vote here for Equal-I-Zer. ( Even though OP has already bought a hitch I see) LOL
Easy to adjust, on my second truck and second trailer with mine.
I see they have been in business 70 years, that's pretty good.
Have a good one,
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:50 PM   #77
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WD and Sway Control hitches and ground clearance

I really did not grasp how much ground clearance is lost when using a WD/SC hitch. Today I installed a ProPride on my Airstream and the bars dragged quite a bit getting out of my driveway (they hang 11.5" below the Airstream's frame). My driveway has a surmountable curb and a slope that is slightly more than most gas stations but I am concerned that the National Parks and forest service roads we plan on traveling on may present the same road clearance issues. TV and trailer were both level once on the street so I believe that I had it installed correctly and adjusted correctly. What have folks experienced in their travels as far as bar drag and road clearance issues?
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:57 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoscoMN View Post
I really did not grasp how much ground clearance is lost when using a WD/SC hitch. Today I installed a ProPride on my Airstream and the bars dragged quite a bit getting out of my driveway (they hang 11.5" below the Airstream's frame). My driveway has a surmountable curb and a slope that is slightly more than most gas stations but I am concerned that the National Parks and forest service roads we plan on traveling on may present the same road clearance issues. TV and trailer were both level once on the street so I believe that I had it installed correctly and adjusted correctly. What have folks experienced in their travels as far as bar drag and road clearance issues?
We use a ProPride with no problems, wouldn't tow without it. Without seeing how much downward tilt on the w.d. bars, you may simply have too many washers on the rivet that tilts the head and w.d. bars down.
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Old 04-23-2016, 11:59 PM   #79
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If a person is dragging the WD bars on a ProPride more than the rear of the trailer I want to imagine that the trailer is sitting nose down when hitched.

I don't think I have ever dragged my Hensley, but my trailer is raised three inches at the axles. That might matter.


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Old 04-24-2016, 02:44 AM   #80
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The 23D came with 14" tires and wheels and the sewer connections at the rear are really close to the ground, even lower than the axles. We upgraded to the 15" Michelin LTX (P) 235/75R15 XL tires and that raised the trailer 1.1" which is a great improvement for ground clearance.

If I could feel comfortable swapping out the brake drums for six lug units and upgrading to the 16" Michelin tires and wheels, I would gain only 0.3" more elevation but the tires would really be too close to the curb side front wheel opening...

We had to make a course reversal on our last trip and the return to the highway had a high point to cross and we did drag the Hensley bars a little. I have not dragged the ProPride arms yet on the Classic.
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Old 04-24-2016, 02:51 PM   #81
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I had the Propride set up with no washers and I raised the WD bars level. They hit just a little bit aft of the bend in the bar. The nose of the trailer was about 1/2" higher than the tail.
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Old 04-24-2016, 03:11 PM   #82
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My driveway is "normal" for Minnesota, with some pitch to it. Tow vehicle is a short wheelbase Expedition.

I like going to the 15" wheels for the many reasons others on the forum have made the upgrade - the extra clearance mentioned above will be welcome!
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:18 PM   #83
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Quote:
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My driveway is "normal" for Minnesota, with some pitch to it. Tow vehicle is a short wheelbase Expedition.

I like going to the 15" wheels for the many reasons others on the forum have made the upgrade - the extra clearance mentioned above will be welcome!
You're only going to get 1/2" higher with the Michelin tires, but they are still an excellent idea, especially with a single axle Airstream. I don't think we ended up with any more clearance with the Michelin 16; our GYM's were at 60 psi and we run our 80 psi max Michelins at 65 lbs for a softer ride (and plenty of load capacity).

Trying to think of ways to get extra clearance. With weight distribution applied, does your Expedition have equal drop (measured at the wheel wells on one side) front and rear, or is it lower in the back?

Could you just turn in a little more w.d with the screw jacks to raise the back of the Expo and front of the trailer a bit just before entering and exiting the driveway (then set it properly after getting out). The ease of this with the screw jacks is one of the nice features of the ProPride, you may want to use the tongue jack to lift the tongue first to make the screw jacks easier to turn, then raise the tongue jack before you back in.
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Old 04-25-2016, 03:40 AM   #84
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The relative tire diameters:

14" GYM ST215/75R14C 26.7"

15" GYM ST225/75R15D 28.3"

15" Michelin LTX (P) 235/75R15 XL 28.9"

16" Michelin LT225/75R16/E LTX M/S2 29.2"

We got the most lift going from the stock 14" tires and wheels on the 23D to the 15" Michelins on 15" SenDel five lug nut T03-56545T wheels which was 1.1". Since the heaviest loaded tire (street side rear) weight is only 1,360 pounds, the 15" Michelin's derated capacity of 1,985 pounds is more than adequate for the job and we run 44 psi in them (per Andy Thompson at CanAm) for a softer ride. The 16" Michelins would have been a really tight fit and too stiff for the lighter weight of the 23D with four tires. Plus the conversion to 12" brake drums to get the six lug nut pattern would have added considerable cost in addition to the tires and wheels.

The extra height does get the sewer department higher off the ground which is the achilles heel of this model.
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