View Poll Results: What type of hitch do you use?
Just the ball 10 6.37%
Weight distribution with friction bar 32 20.38%
Equal-I-Zer 32 20.38%
Dual Cam 38 24.20%
Pullrite 0 0%
Pivot point projection (Hensley, Propride) 45 28.66%
Voters: 157. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 05-19-2012, 04:27 PM   #71
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David, thanks
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:53 AM   #72
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Equalizer with 1000# bars ... ground to new contour with more flex to soften the ride from the 3/4T TV for the AS.

Jim, I agree totally ...
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What I really do not like to see is the F-150 or the Blazer 2 going down the road with the headlights pointing at the clouds as he pulls a 31 footer and the back end is about 3" off the pavement and he's just on the ball. You can get by with that with a 3/4 ton heavy duty, but not with a half ton.
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:42 PM   #73
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Equalizer with 1000# bars ... ground to new contour with more flex to soften the ride from the 3/4T TV for the AS.
I've never heard/read of this technique... can you post some pix/commentary?
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:32 PM   #74
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I've never heard/read of this technique... can you post some pix/commentary?
Me too. I imagine you could grind down the middle of the bars so the ends would fit properly. If so, did you compare them to lighter weight bars to see if you created 800 or 600 lb. bars? What did you grind it with?

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Old 05-29-2012, 01:08 AM   #75
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Not very scientific, but the 10k head & bars is what I thought I needed and what the dealer sold to me last year. Then, after reading about a HD TV and a harsh ride being detrimental to our AS trailer, I took it upon myself to read the research provided on this forum (thank you to the several true experts that provided "scientific" or empirical analysis as well as anecdotal personal experiences). Clearly, the 10k bars (1 3/8" square) do not provide the necessary flex (as do the lighter EQ brand bars as well as alternative manufacturers' bars) to our ~5k gross and ~631# hitch needs. So, rather than paying a small fortune to either buy the smaller bars and get the smaller bars bushed up to fit my head or to pay a machinist to "mill" my existing bars down to the 6k size of 1 1/4" square, I simply took out my angle grinder, marked the end points of my new "curve", drilled down (~1/16") in the middle of each side of the bars to mark the proper grinding depth (as a second guide to proper metal removal), and sat down and slowly ground down to the new gentle contour (~1 1/4") of the lighter weight bars. I mounted the spring bars to the head for an easy job and rotated the bars as necessary to access all four sides...checking measurements often with a cheap caliper to make sure that I didn't go down past the 1 1/4" dimension the middle of the spring bars. I surmised that a cross section which is now more rounded rather than perfectly square would likely give better results as far as energy absorbtion. Although there is likely a large acceptable / allowable margin for error, go slowly and YMMV;I am not responsible (disclaimer) for your results and do not suggest this for the faint of heart. It makes the re-paint job last much longer with the new surface (hand finish filed and sanded smooth ... read that - I have more time than money to spend; or, should I admit that I'm very frugal ... have to be to afford this particular AS selection).

The contour is slightly concave - deeper (to match the "diameter" of the factory spec lighter bar 1 1/4") in the middle of the spring bars and gradually transitions / contours at the ends to the original size (which is untouched for ~5" on each end - distance determined by a cardboard slider on the spring bar moved against the L-bracket for several outings). In my unscientific evaluation the bars are now significantly softer (somewhere between the 6 and 10k max load ... but still tending toward the 10k because they are only partially "contoured" / not milled the entire length) because I needed to adjust the L-bracket height (up one notch) as well as the head pitch downward (one more washer inserted) to give the recommended TV weight distribution. I am still fine tuning and use masking tape on the wheel well lips to mark the measurement vertical index; scales to follow. I can now usually adjust to weight / water / cargo load by simply moving the L-brackets. One note of caution is that after some screwing on and off, the nylock jam nuts securing the L-brackets no longer "lock" in place and should be checked often. This is a great hitch with nearly infinite adjustment for TV and AS configurations. Sorry for any errors, it is late; but I wanted to get a response to those who asked.
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:10 AM   #76
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I have to stir the pot.

Hi, I think combining the Hensley with the Propride in the poll is like combining GMC to Chevrolet for the purpose of beating Ford. I don't need to vote; You-all know what I have.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:03 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I think combining the Hensley with the Propride in the poll is like combining GMC to Chevrolet for the purpose of beating Ford. I don't need to vote; You-all know what I have.

I'm gonn'a go grind my barz now.....

Bob
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:06 PM   #78
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Finalcutjoe-

EXCELLENT web page!
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:18 PM   #79
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Finalcutjoe-

EXCELLENT web page!
Thanks! My wife thinks I'm a dork
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:27 PM   #80
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Thanks! My wife thinks I'm a dork
The pages I briefly looked at looked good, but it is time for dinner; gotta go. However, it is possible to have a cool web page and be a dork. Just be a happy dork, Joe.

I keep watching the poll results and looking for more Equalized people to show up and push (pull ?) past the others. I guess I'm too competitive.

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Old 02-25-2015, 07:08 AM   #81
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135 votes
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Old 02-25-2015, 07:21 AM   #82
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Reese dual cam, 800 lb bars.


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Old 02-25-2015, 09:24 AM   #83
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This poll needs to be updated to include two popular WD hitches. The Andersen System and Blue Ox SwayPro.
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:28 AM   #84
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How about adding the Husky Centerline as well?
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