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Old 11-27-2008, 07:32 AM   #15
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Markdoane, HowieE, Ron Gratz - appreciate latest responses.

Weight distribution a lot clearer when using our figures.
Ron - I shall endeavour to maintain steering axle unloaded ride height/load when making adjustments. Maintaining steering geometry has been a concern. Our last Ford truck had a negative camber on front wheels due to weak springs. I accept now that I cannot distribute all the load on rear axle.
That's fine.

John
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Old 11-27-2008, 09:07 AM   #16
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IMHO.. your first goal should be getting your TRAILER LEVEL and not exceeding the GAWR's of the tow vehicle. As mentioned, that can only be done at the CAT scales, although the measurement method will get you close.
Granted I use the haha, but the procedures are the same.
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:08 AM   #17
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Weight Distribution

Weight distribution is the goal.
Equal weight on the front and rear axles of the trailer is the most important to prevent overloading one trailer axle or the other.
Unfortunately axles age and so does the rubber rods that perform the function of springs.
My trailer is not level.
Just so happens when the weight is equal on the front and rear axles the tongue is a little low (good thing).
You have a new trailer so I would hope the load carrying capability is equal (more so than mine).
Level trailer is a very good start, but a trip to the scales will suprise you.
Again, place the heavy items in the rear of the truck over or in front of the rear axle.
Go to the scale.
Establish equal trailer axle load ball height on the trailer.
Then using the spring bar chain links start shifting the trailer tongue weight to the front axle(remove a link/add a link), you will see the weight on axle value change on the truck and trailer.
You might have to move up or down or lean the head on the shank (head is the part the ball bolts to, shank is the part that slides into the receiver on the two vehicle) to maintain the optimum tounge height as you play with the number of chain links under tension, but just do it. The results will be very noticable (increased stability and braking control).
Ask any State Trooper with a set of portable scales, he will tell you what is important is the weight on the wheels, not how good it looks.
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Old 12-01-2008, 03:12 PM   #18
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Thanks to everyone who responded to my post.

Not done any measurements or taken trip to scales yet, but will probably be surprised at results. The bike's centre of gravity seems to be in front of rear axle and equipment (generator, etc) carried is in cab extension.

Right now got other problems - mid 20 degrees F at night here and lpg outlets wont fill our bottles!!!

John
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:40 PM   #19
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Greetings,

We use an Equal-i-zer hitch and haul a Honda Goldwing (Suzuki C50 prior to the Wing) in the back of our truck with a 25 ft Safari behind. The installation instructions for the Equal-i-zer go into detail explaining the measurements and include "worksheets" to fill out to get a proper installation/weight distribution.

You should be able to use these instructions to determine if your setup is close to right. You will have to wade through the whole manual to pick out the applicable parts. If you are off, you should be able to use your particular hitch instructions to achieve proper adjustment. I followed these instructions when we started towing with a motorcycle in the truck and our setup is rock solid. (hitch was originally installed and adjusted by dealer on different truck, etc.)

Hope this helps. Here is the link:

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/eq...structions.pdf
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Old 12-02-2008, 01:30 PM   #20
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Hi ScottMac

Thanks- yes the link is a big help, sections 17-21 can be applied to our set up.
Our hitch instructions were on one sheet of paper and just described how to assemble it. Prior to our rig being shipped to UK I had never seen a w/d hitch and just had a vague idea of how they worked. We set up initially using the Ford owners manual instructions and then we discovered Airstream Forums!

Any pics of bike?

John
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:17 PM   #21
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Saving $$ at the CAT Scale

Here's how to save cash when making multiple weigh ins. On your 1st scale, the scale master will ask "First weigh?". Answer yes. After receiving the OK, go inside to pay for & pick up your scale ticket. Every scale weigh in after that, say "No, reweigh." or "Second weigh." The scale master will ask for your ticket number. This is the long printed number in the upper left corner of the ticket. The reweighs only cost $1.00. This is a lot cheaper than paying full price every trip over the scale. You can reweigh as many times as needed in a 24 hr period at $1.00 each. You must do all of your reweighs at the same scale. If you think you'll need many weighs, do it on a weekend or when the truck stops aren't busy. This way you piss off a lot of truckers when you stop in a driving lane while making adjustments to hitch or redistibuting your load.
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Old 12-02-2008, 04:25 PM   #22
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Thanks 3 Dog Nite but we are not in USA. Will use breakers yard scales - quiet and no pressure to move on.

John
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:36 PM   #23
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I don't think you are supposed to use your hitch bars to lift up the back of an overloaded pickup truck.
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:21 PM   #24
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Great response Ron,

I too tow with an F350 dually crew and in reading your response has me thinking about transfering any more weight to the airstream. My trailer is heavy, big tongue weight and when all tanks are full it leaves me only 350lbs of cargo weight allowable. I havent made it to the scales yet but i know i dont have much room to increase distribution to those rear axles. I use the 600lb bars on my dual cam and i removed those overload springs. I dont want to risk damage to the trailer incase they come in contact.
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Old 12-17-2008, 09:11 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlamica View Post
Great response Ron,

I too tow with an F350 dually crew and in reading your response has me thinking about transfering any more weight to the airstream. My trailer is heavy, big tongue weight and when all tanks are full it leaves me only 350lbs of cargo weight allowable. I havent made it to the scales yet but i know i dont have much room to increase distribution to those rear axles. I use the 600lb bars on my dual cam and i removed those overload springs. I dont want to risk damage to the trailer incase they come in contact.
How does your rig "now" handle, since you made those changes?

Many owners want to make changes such as you have, but are waiting for feedback from some of those that in fact "did" make the changes.

Andy
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Old 12-17-2008, 09:19 AM   #26
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Hi Andy,

I have limited time behind the wheel with this combination but its level and seems to handle great. When i bounce on the tongue i get plenty of movement as those overloads never come in contact. My particular trailer is one of the few because the slide and overall weight has very little payload. Once my wife fills it up (i have to watch her) and some of the load is transfered I can get in trouble quick. The spec sheet behind the closet door says with all the tanks full i have only 350lbs of capacity left..

But.. im happy with the combination.
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Old 12-17-2008, 09:27 AM   #27
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So Andy,,,

I also like to haul this around.. What size bars do i need now??
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Old 12-17-2008, 09:29 AM   #28
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So Andy,,,

I also like to haul this around.. What size bars do i need now??
You need bars that also have Karioke.

Andy
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