I'm confused. I see ads in this forum that advocate hitches that cost over $400.00. Sams Club has a weight distribution hitch (chain tensioner) rated for a tongue weight of 1000 lbs. for $89.00!! What am I missing?
Dick
You obviously haven't checked out the Hensley Arrow hitch yet eitherwww.nosway.com Hitches vary in quality and features. I would reccomend going with a recognized brand name, like Hensley, Reese, Drawtite/ Putnam, Equalizer. They have all been in business for many years and stand behind their product. I am not saying the one at Sam's Club is bad, but I would want to make sure I have some type of support after the sale on something as critical as a hitch. If you are towing a 6500# AS down the road my safety as well as your own is worth something. I pesonally have used the Reese and the Equalizer and like both of them. Currently I am using the Equalizer.
Originally posted by Navigator I'm confused. I see ads in this forum that advocate hitches that cost over $400.00. Sams Club has a weight distribution hitch (chain tensioner) rated for a tongue weight of 1000 lbs. for $89.00!! What am I missing?
Dick
Is that the A-Car universal?
I have one on a Blazer. It does the job but the WD draw bars will not fit in it. I only pull a 3k trailer with it on just a standard draw bar.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
The most basic provides just a coupling point or a strong mount for a trailer ball.
A step up is a hitch that spreads out vertical loads - a load leveling hitch - so your steering wheels don't come up off the ground when you hook up the trailer.
Then you get into hitches that control horizontal forces - sway control hitches.
The cheapest sway control is usually a braking bar mounted to one side of the trailer ball. These cost about $100
The Dual Cam or Equal-i-zer are next. The Dual Cam can be added to many load leveling hitches for about $200. The Equal-i-zer is a complete hitch for about $400. There are also some other brands, such as Blue Ox, that fit in about here.
The next step up moves the pivot point forward to help control sway forces. The Pullrite at about $2000 uses a frame rail and rigging to move the pivot to near the rear axle. The Hensley ($3000) uses a connecting geometry to move the pivot far forward for small angles.
When you start getting to trailer weights that are more than the tow vehicle or lengths that are longer than the tow vehicle, hitches that improve handling by providing better control of both vertical and horizontal forces become very nice to have. But how far you go depends upon you personal preferences.
I use a Reese 1000# equalizer hitch . The trailer is a 1988 Excella 1000, 32", with a gross of 8300#.
I tow with a 1999 Chevrolet Z-71 K-1500 pickup and the weight distribution is within 60# of being exactly equal between front and rear axles on the truck.
Whatever you choose, take the rig to a truck stop with certified scales and check the setup. This will tell you how well you are set up as you will get the total weight and the weight by axles.
Wish to thank wahoonc, 59 Toaster, Leipper, and kep4k for your valued input. Think I'll go with a tried and proven American made brand hitch; although my big block Suburban pulled the trailer from MN to DE without weight distribution, and it went like a dream. With the complete rehab in the works, the added weight might very well require a better set-up. Thanks again for your support.
Dick
The Hensley hitch is expensive, but in this case, you get what you pay for. It works as advertised, and comes with a 30-day send-it-back guarantee of satisfaction.
Originally posted by linc54 The Hensley hitch is expensive, but in this case, you get what you pay for. It works as advertised, and comes with a 30-day send-it-back guarantee of satisfaction.
Yes it is a good hitch but it cost more than my AS did! If I were towing a brand new or much newer unit I probably would have the Hensley. FWIW
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